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207. Get the best home theater experience
Q. I just bought a new HDTV and surround sound system. The store offered to set things up for me, but it wanted hundreds of dollars. I'm tapped out! Can you help me set up my home theater? I want to make sure I'm getting the most from my investment.

A. I hear you, Bill! You probably spent $1,000 or more on your TV and surround sound system. You don't want to spend hundreds more getting it set up.

Still, it is important to set up your home theater properly. Otherwise, you aren't getting your money's worth from your investment. Your enjoyment of your home theater will suffer.

There are several things you need to do to. First, you need to position the television the right distance from where you will sit. You need to use the right cables to connect all your components.

Next, you need to calibrate the television. This will ensure that you're getting accurate colors. Finally, you need to position your surround sound speakers properly.

Let's start by talking about viewing distance. You'll find a lot of recommendations for viewing distances online. Viewing distances aren't written in stone. So, you may want to do a little experimenting. See what looks best to you.

If you sit too close to the screen, you may see pixels. It's kind of like looking closely at a picture in a newspaper. It will deteriorate into dots. If you sit too far away, you might miss some detail. You won't get the picture quality you paid for.

Consumer Reports has easy guidelines for determining viewing distances. Multiply the screen size by two and three. The lower number is the minimum distance you should sit from the set. The higher result is the maximum distance.

Let's say you have a 37-inch HDTV. You want to sit between 74 and 111 inches from the set. That's between six and nine feet.

You might also want to visit MyHomeTheater. It has a viewing distance calculator that takes a few more factors into consideration. For example, it will help you determine the right viewing angle.

After you get your set positioned, you'll want to connect all the cables. This is probably the trickiest part. I recommend reading the instructions carefully. But, you'll probably need a little more help. So click here for instructions on connecting all the cables.

Now it is time to calibrate your HDTV. I'm sure many people are unfamiliar with HDTV calibration. So let me do some explaining before we jump into instructions and options.

There is stiff competition between television manufacturers. They all want their sets to stand out in the showroom. So, they make the displays bright, and colors often have a cool bluish cast.

These settings will probably look horrible in your home. In fact, a poorly calibrated HDTV will look worse than an old tube-style set. Also, the showroom settings can increase energy consumption. You'll actually pay more for a worse picture.

Retailers often offer calibration services when you buy an HDTV. Expect to pay $300 or more for the service. Independent calibration services offer similar rates. Fortunately, there are other alternatives.

You can buy calibration discs. Simply put it in your DVD player. Then, follow the steps to calibrate your set. This is a quick and easy way to calibrate an HDTV.

Calibration discs are also affordable; you can buy one for about $30 at a local electronics store. But first, check your DVDs. Pixar and Lucasfilm DVDs often have calibration tools. Look for the THX Optimizer in the Set Up or Special Features section.

The results from the disc won't match professional calibration. Professionals have more advanced tools. They may also be able to access service menus that you can't.

If you want better results, purchase a colorimeter. For example, you can buy Datacolor's Spyder TV. Expect to pay between $100 and $200 for it. Make sure you buy a colorimeter specifically for televisions. You don't want one that's designed for computer displays.

Spending $100 or more may be difficult to swallow. But TVs need to be calibrated regularly. Over time, your investment will pay off. Besides, you can use it on multiple sets.

The colorimeter attaches to the front of your machine. You'll need to connect the cord to a computer so you can use the included software.

The software runs through test patterns. It will tell you to adjust certain settings. It makes calibration much more objective.

Try a calibration disc before the colorimeter. If you're still not happy, hire a profession. Just check for certification from the Image Science Foundation first.

After you've calibrated your set, you're ready to set up surround sound. There are several different flavors of surround sound. You'll see 5.1, 6.1 and 7.1 versions.

These numbers refer to the number of speakers, or channels. That .1 refers to the subwoofer; all systems will have one.

With a 5.1 system, there are center, left and right front speaker. There are also left and right rear speakers. A 7.1 system builds on this by adding left and right side speakers. A 6.1 system is the same as a 7.1 system. The only difference is there is just one center rear speaker.

All the speakers should be positioned at ear level. You want to place the subwoofer on the ground. It produces omni-directional sound. Bass will sound like it's coming from everywhere.

The subwoofer can be placed anywhere. But it is probably best to place it to the right or left of your television.

The center speaker can go above or below the television. See which sounds best. Angle the speaker toward your couch, if necessary.

Place the front speakers beside the television equidistant from each other. They should be at a 45-degree angle to one another. Point them at the same spot on the couch.

Place the rear speakers beside or slightly behind the couch if you have a 5.1 system. Point them toward the front of the room or angle them toward the couch.

Place the side speakers beside or slightly in front of the couch with a 6.1 system. They can face each other, or you can angle them at the couch. The rear speaker goes behind the couch and faces the television.

With 7.1 systems, the side speakers go in front of your couch. The rear ones go slightly behind the couch.

Some manufacturers recommend point the speakers at the wall. You should try this to see if it improves the sound.

Finally, you'll need to adjust the sound levels for each speaker. The receiver should play sounds to help you. The sounds should be at the same level for each speaker. Sit on the couch when adjusting the levels.

Most sound will come from the front speakers. You don't want the side and rear speakers to be too loud. You may encounter sound delays. That means sounds may not match up with on-screen action. Your receiver should have options to help you minimize delays. Check your manual.

Finally, turn off your television's speakers. Otherwise, you could hear an echo. If you can't disable the speakers, turn the volume all the way down.

Make your home theater the envy of your block. Visit my site for more help creating the ultimate home theater set up:

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206. Take good family photos
Q. My granddaughter is graduating from high school in a couple weeks. I will be taking photos at graduation and her open house. I'm a decent photographer, but I'd like some tips. After all, this is a once-in-a-lifetime event. I want the photos to be as good as possible.

A. My grandfather used to love taking photos at family events. Half of the photos would turn out well. Unfortunately, though, the other half would have his thumb in the corner. It was a running joke in our family. I just wonder how many memories we lost because of this.

Graduation is a milestone event. Your granddaughter has worked hard to get to this point. So you will want to remember everything about this day and the celebrations. I'm sure she will be surrounded by family and friends. So this is the perfect time to get some great photos.

First off, make sure you are familiar with your camera and the settings. If you haven't used your camera in a while, break it out and dust it off. Spend some time getting reacquainted with it. When the big day comes, you won't be fumbling for this setting or that option. You can focus more on getting the photo.

Now, there is more to taking good photos than keeping your thumb off the lens. And knowing where all the settings are is only half of the battle. You want to make sure you get the lighting right. You also want to make sure you get all the shots that matter.

Many of these tips will apply to any camera. Some of it encourages you to use your settings. If you're not sure what your camera can do, check your manual. Even inexpensive cameras have some adjustable settings.

Whenever possible, try to take your photos outdoors. Morning or afternoon light is the most flattering. You can use fill flash to eliminate shadows on subjects' faces.

Avoid indoor shots if you can. Indoor lighting can trick your camera. Low-light photos appear overly warm and yellowish. Flash washes out subjects and causes a cold, bluish tint. You can fix some of this in editing, but it is easier to get it right in camera.

Spring is also a great time for outdoor shots. There are plenty of flowers and lush foliage. It will make for stunning backgrounds. You can even make foliage a centerpiece of some pictures. For example, take some shots of your granddaughter beside a bed of flowers. Or maybe take some of her below a tree in the yard.

Take these shots of your granddaughter early in the morning. She'll be relaxed and fresh, and the lighting is just right. Shoot with the sun behind you. Otherwise, you can get ugly lens flares and fading from the sun. Just watch for your shadow.

I recommend using a polarizing filter. This will eliminate glare from glasses and add some contrast to the picture. This can make your photos pop a bit more. Polarizing filters are available for SLRs and some point-and-shoots. Get a circular polarizing filter for a digital camera. Linear polarizing filters are designed for film.

Your camera may not accept filters. In that case, there's an easy solution. Hold the lens of a pair of polarizing sunglasses over the camera's lens. Just watch where you put your thumb!

Distracting backgrounds can ruin photographs. So, try to fill the frame with your subject. This draws viewers' eyes to the subject. You do want to capture some of the background. So, use background and foreground elements to frame the subject.

Think of the colors in your photos as well. Spring is about pastels and bright greens. Look for framing elements that showcase these colors. It will put the feeling of spring in the picture.

You also want to think about aperture size. Aperture is the opening that lets light into the photo. I recommend aperture priority mode for your photos, if possible. Use a smaller aperture (larger f-stop) when you want more of the photo in focus.

Larger apertures (smaller f-stops) blur the foreground and background, creating a narrow focus range. Distracting backgrounds are minimized. And your subjects will stand out more. This is perfect when shooting a portrait or a small group of people.

You don't want to miss a single moment. So, use continuous (or burst) mode. This will eliminate some of the lag between shots. Try to keep your portraits simple. Engage your subjects while you photograph them. This will help them relax and show their personality.

Don't be afraid to look weird. You need to shoot from a lot of different angles to get the best photos. Sometimes, you need to get low or get up on something to get the right shot.

Now, let's talk about some specific shots. You'll want to get a shot of your granddaughter as she walks across the stage. You'll also want a photo of her accepting her diploma.

You'll probably need a telephoto lens for this. Try to learn a little about the graduation venue in advance. Get an idea of how far you'll be sitting from the stage. Make sure your lens is adequate. On graduation day, arrive early to get the best seat.

When using a telephoto lens, you're more likely to get blurry photos. You can avoid some of this shakiness by using a tripod. This may or may not be possible, but a tripod will help a lot.

Don't forget to take some photos of your granddaughter at school. Take some photos next to the school's sign. Take some serious shots, but don't be afraid to have a little fun. Have her toss her cap in some of the photos. You may not be able to take photos in the school, but you can take shots on campus.

At the open house, try to get photos of the guests as they arrive. They'll look their best. Plus, you don't want to overlook anyone. You can set up a camera by the door, if you like.

You'll also want to get plenty of group shots. Take some staged shots and plenty of candid ones. Get photos of your granddaughter with the family. Also take some with her friends and teachers.

A little planning is needed for group shots. Start by scouting out a location where you will take the photos. Make sure the background isn't distracting. For large groups, try shooting downwards from a high place. This helps you fit more people in the photo. Try to take these shots early on in the celebrations.

Put tall people in the back or in the middle of a single row. Start shooting while your subjects arrange themselves for more relaxed photos. Use continuous mode to take plenty of photos. You may need to use a smaller aperture (larger f-stop) for bigger groups. Otherwise, they may not all be in focus.

You'll want to be in the photos, too, of course. So get a remote shutter release, if your camera will accept one. Otherwise, use your camera's self timer.

Mingle and take plenty of pictures throughout the day. This increases your chance of getting good ones. And take pictures before and after the celebrations. These shots will add to your memories.

Try to tell a story with your photos. How did the day start? What did you have to eat? What was it like when family and friends arrived? What was the cake like? When did they leave?

This will make the photos more interesting to look through later. In a few years, you'll still want to go through all the photos, beginning to end.

Finally, don't spend too much time behind the camera. Take time to celebrate your granddaughter's day!

For more help shooting photos in any situation, check out my photography book. Click here to buy my Essential eGuide to Digital Photography. You can download the book immediately and start learning! It's great for amateurs and pros alike!

For more help taking photos, visit my site:

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205. Defrag a hard drive
Q. Is it necessary or appropriate to defragment a solid-state drive? Thanks.

A. I love this question, Sydney; it's short and to the point. So I'll start off with the short answer. No, defragmenting solid-state drives isn't necessary. In fact, it's not a good idea at all. Read on to find out why.

Let's refresh our memories about how hard drives work. That will help you understand why SSDs follow different rules. We'll start by talking about the traditional hard drive.

A traditional hard drive uses magnetism to store information. Inside each drive is one or more "platters." These platters are metal disks that spin rapidly. The standard speed for desktop hard drive platters is 7,200 RPM.

Each platter contains billions of microscopic magnetic regions. These regions can be either magnetized or de-magnetized. The computer reads those as binary ones and zeros, respectively. Strings of ones and zeros are how all computer information is stored.

A magnetic head reads and writes information on each platter. The head is mounted on a swinging arm. It has to physically move across the platter to find information.

It's actually the same idea as a turntable record player. The magnetic head is like the record needle. The difference is that the hard drive head hovers over the platter. When the head touches the platter, you have a serious problem.

This approach has worked for decades, but it has some drawbacks. One major problem is reliability. There are a lot of moving components that can fail. And when they fail, your information is often severely damaged. That is why having a backup system is essential. I recommend my advertiser Carbonite for backups.

Another problem is speed; the components can only move so fast. This limits how quickly information can be written and read. Some drives spin the platters at 10,000 RPM or higher. That increases data transfer, but it also wears the drive out faster.

The moving parts are also a problem as hard drive storage gets bigger. There is more information on the drive to search. Finding the right file can take longer.

That leads us to the most common problem, which is fragmentation. Fragmentation occurs on every computer during normal use. Files are constantly being moved, written, changed, deleted and overwritten.

You often end up with one program file in one spot. And a related program file will be in a completely different spot. You might even have one file broken up into several locations.

What happens when the computer accesses that program or file? It has to visit several spots on the platter to assemble it for you. And that takes extra time. Your computer slows down.

You can visualize it this way. Imagine listening to a vinyl record where every song is broken into segments. And those segments are scattered around the record.

Listening to a song would be annoying. The needle would have to lift and move to each new segment. That means the song would keep pausing. And listening to a complete song would take forever.

That is why defragmentation programs exist. These move related information back together on the platter. This means the head doesn't have to move so much. It helps your computer run smoother.

Now let's talk about how solid-state drives work. These have been around for years. But until recently, they were way too expensive for most consumers.

They are still more expensive than traditional hard drives. But prices are falling rapidly, and SSD storage size is increasing. In fact, SSDs are the only option on some laptops now. The MacBook Air is a good example.

SSDs are built around flash memory. That's the same technology used for thumb drives and memory cards. Most media players, tablets and smart phones use flash memory as well.

Flash memory is made up of cells. There are a few different kinds of these cells. But we don't need to worry about that for the moment.

The upside is that there are no moving parts, hence the "solid state" moniker. Everything is read and written electronically. That increases both reliability and speed.

It also makes fragmentation a moot point. It doesn't matter where files are located on the SSD. There are no moving parts to slow things down. Reading files from multiple locations takes no extra time.

In fact, defragmenting an SSD is actually not good for it. That's because flash memory has a major drawback: It wears out over time.

Flash memory is made up of billions of cells. Writing information changes the contents of the cell. Unfortunately, each cell can only be changed so many times. After that, it won't change anymore. Eventually, your SSD loses all its storage space.

Flash cell lifecycle is being steadily improved. A modern, SSD from a reputable manufacturer should last at least 5 years. Much of that is thanks to wear-leveling controllers.

These controllers monitor how often each cell is used. They make sure data is spread evenly throughout the drive. This keeps cells from being worn out too quickly.

Manufacturers are also over-provisioning. This is putting more memory in the drive than is listed. If some cells fail prematurely, they can be ignored with minimal impact.

Defragmenting a drive moves a lot of data around. This means you are changing a lot of cells at once. And that means you are wearing the SSD out more quickly.

Of course, the impact is slight overall. It would take a lot of defragmenting to wear out the drive. But, again, it doesn't actually help performance.

If you want to get an SSD, make sure you have Windows 7. It is designed to work properly with SSDs. Earlier Windows versions will treat the SSD like a regular hard drive. This means you won't get many of the benefits.

Also, remember that SSDs are still largely new to the consumer market. You will probably encounter poor products and manufacturing errors. Having your sensitive information backed up is still very important.

Again, check out my advertiser Carbonite if you don't already have a backup system. It's the best backup solution I've found. It keeps your data securely backed in a remote location. Sign up now for a 15-day free trial and get two months free when you join!

Hard drives are essential to the modern computer. They are required to handle the ever-increasing amount of information being stored. It's a good idea to learn as much about them as possible:

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204. Dejunk a new PC the easy way
Q. I recently bought a new laptop that I was really excited for. But when I opened it up, there were tons of programs on it already. None of them look at all important. Most seem to be free trials of random software that I've never heard of. Is this stuff necessary? And can I get rid of it all?

A. There are a lot of names for software that comes installed on new computers. Some are less forgiving than others. We'll use the term "bloatware." Bloatware is unnecessary and often causes new computers to run slowly.

The profit margins on computers are slim. So, manufacturers install these annoying programs to increase profits. Developers pay manufactures to include their software on new computers.

This is usually why you get annoying registration and trial reminders when you boot up. The developers nag you in hopes that you'll buy the full versions of their software.

Make no mistake, however. The majority of this stuff is junk, and you need to get rid of it. Otherwise you can expect slow performance and more annoying messages.

That's because most of these programs are set to open at startup. Have you ever booted up your computer and waited 10 minutes before anything happens? Likely, bloatware is to blame. Your computer can't handle opening everything at once.

At best, these programs are wasting space on your hard drive. I'd rather fill that space with family photos or work documents.

Fortunately, you can remove bloatware from your computer. In most cases, it won't be terribly difficult. But it will take some time. You also need the right tools to remove everything.

First, remove any icons on the desktop that you don't want. Hold down the Control key and click on each icon that looks like bloatware. After you've selected them all, drag and drop them into the Recycle Bin.

Removing the desktop icons won't uninstall the software. In fact, Windows should display a message to that effect. So now it's time to uninstall these programs. Click Start>>Control Panel. Depending on your operating system, the next screen will look different.

If you have Windows 7 or Vista, double-click Programs and Features. You will see a list of all the programs you have installed. Select one you want to get rid of and click Uninstall. Follow the prompts to remove the program. You'll have to do this for each program you want to remove.

If you use XP double-click Add or Remove Programs. Select the program you want to uninstall and then click Change/Remove. Follow the prompts to remove the program. Repeat for other programs you don't want.

There are also some free programs that will wipe out a lot of bloatware for you. One is PC Decrapifier. (The name says it all!) You can download it for free here.

Using PC Decrapifier is pretty straightforward. Install the software on your machine and run it. Your antivirus software might flag it. Don't worry—it's clean. I've checked it thoroughly.

Once open, Decrapifier will ask you a couple of questions: Is your computer new? Do you want to make a restore point before you begin? Creating a restore point is a good idea.

Once that's done, Decrapifier will look for any known bloatware. It's surprisingly good at finding a lot of the junk that's installed.

The last screen lets you select other programs to uninstall. Select any programs you want to uninstall. Click Next to confirm. PC Decrapifier will remove all the programs you've selected.

Sometimes uninstalling the program isn't enough. Files attached to bloatware can be floating around on your computer, hidden from plain sight. To clean those out, I recommend CCleaner. Download it for free here.

CCleaner is a useful program to have. It removes these orphaned files. It can also work as a disk cleanup tool. It's a good idea to run it periodically to keep your machine running smoothly.

You can do one last thing to make your new machine as fast as it should be: Limit what programs open when you start the computer.

Navigate to Start>>Run in Windows XP. In the Run dialogue box, enter "msconfig" (minus quotes). Now hit Enter on your keyboard. If you're using Vista or Windows 7, click Start and type "msconfig" (minus quotes) in the Search box.

In the System Configuration box, click the Startup tab. You should now see a list of the applications that are set to open when you start your machine. Uncheck programs you don't want to launch at startup.

You can also hit "Disable all" in the bottom right to stop all of them. This isn't such a good idea. It will prevent your antivirus and spyware programs from running at startup.

For more help maintaining and cleaning your computer, hit my site:

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203. Editing RAW photos
Q. I just got a new Canon 5D for Christmas. I'm so excited to start shooting photos with it. But this is my first DSLR, so I'm a bit green when it comes to editing RAW photos. Can you explain how I edit RAW photos?

A. That's a very cool camera, Maria. Congratulations! Before we talk about editing RAW photos, a quick explanation is in order.

For those who aren't so photo-savvy, RAW format isn't like most digital photo formats. RAW photos are basically the untouched data right from your camera's sensor. And RAW images are usually uncompressed. They're much like a digital negative.

Shooting in RAW isn't for everyone. The fact that only SLRs and high-end point-and-shoots offer RAW should tell you something. The format is really designed for advanced photographers.

RAW format give you higher-quality photos, provided you know what you're doing. You have greater control over editing your photos. And you don't have to worry about the editing process degrading photo quality. Of course, there's more data than, say, a JPG; more data means better photos.

But, editing RAW pictures can be challenge. That's because most programs aren't compatible with RAW formats. Additionally, RAW isn't a universal format. Most camera makers have their own proprietary versions of RAW. It often varies from camera to camera.

That means you'll need dedicated software to edit RAW pictures. Of course, there's a number programs out there to do the job. With your Canon SLR you probably got a copy of Digital Photo Professional. That's Canon's free RAW editor.

A lot of other DSLR manufacturers also include RAW-editing programs. But these typically work only with that brand's proprietary RAW formats.

So I'm going to use a free program that anyone can download. RawTherapee is a pretty robust RAW editor. Better yet, it's totally free to use.

It sports a lot of the same features of pricey programs like Lightroom and Aperture. And it works with a wide range of proprietary RAW formats; check for compatibility with your camera.

Getting started with RawTherapee is simple. Once it's installed and opened, you'll see it's made up off few different parts.

First is the file browser in the lower-left corner. Use it to search your computer for your RAW files. In the center is the main image viewer. Here you can see the picture you're editing. And finally on the far right is the adjustment panel. This is where you'll tweak most of the settings to edit your photos.

Once you've chosen a photo to edit, you can start adjusting it. The first thing I like doing with photos is fixing the exposure and color. Click on the Exposure tab in the adjustment panel. You'll see a list of tools for fixing exposure. The big ones here are Exposure, Tone Curve and Shadows/Highlights.

Using the different sliders in Exposure will help brighten or darken photos. Keep in mind that this isn't the same as adjusting Brightness. Instead Exposure works to simulate the picture if more or less light hit the sensor. It will give you more or less detail.

Tone Curve is an advanced way to control contrast for the overall image. You just click and drag on the curve to adjust it. Each point on the curve affects a certain tonal range. As you move from left to right, you affect darker to lighter tones.

Shadows/Highlights will let you adjust the brightest and darkest areas of your photos. In this section, you can make the blacks in the photo darker. Inversely, you can make the whites in the photo brighter.

Now to my favorite part: color correction. Click on the Colour tab-yes, it's spelled the British way. Here you can adjust White Balance and color levels.

White balance is particularly important for good photography. This essentially tells the photograph what white should actually look like. Often white balance is overlooked, resulting in bad photos. A common example of poor white balance is a picture that looks too blue or too yellow.

We can fix that in RawTherapee. The easiest way is to click on the Spot WB button. Then click a portion of the photo that should be white. You'll see the image automatically fix itself. This typically does a pretty good job on its own. But you can adjust the Temperature and Tint sliders to fine tune it.

Also in the Colour tab is the Channel Mixer. This will let you emphasize particular hues. You can adjust for more or less amounts of red, blue or green. Different color effects can give a picture certain feelings

For example, you can make pictures look warm and welcoming. You do this by adding a bit more yellow or red and taking away some blue.

Sharpening is also an important function of any RAW editor. That's because all RAW photos need sharpening; unlike JPGs, they are not sharpened in the camera. Thankfully, RawTherapee has some powerful sharpening tools.

Go to the Details tab. The first section is for Sharpening. Use the sliders to fine tune the amount of sharpening you'd like to apply. Also note the Sharpen only edges and Halo control options.

Sharpen only edges will help define the image a bit more. But it also reduces distracting noise. That's because it doesn't sharpen every pixel on the image. Halo control is equally as handy. It helps hide the banding that can occur from over sharpening photos.

Another key feature of RawTherapee is noise reduction. This is especially important when shooting in low light. That's because the higher ISOs required for low-light shots will create more noise.

To denoise your photo, click on the Detail tab. You'll see two noise reduction options: Luminance and Colour.

Luminance Noise Reduction will blend noisy pixels based on their brightness value. Colour Noise Reduction will blend noise based on the pixel's hue.

Of course, you can do some basic edits in RawTherapee as well. Look directly above the image viewer. Here you'll find buttons to crop, rotate, flip and straighten the image.

Once you've finished, you can either save the image or open it in another editor. You'll first want to choose the format of the image, however. Do you want it to save as a JPG, a PNG or a TIFF?

To do this, click on Preferences. A new window will pop up. Select the Output Options tab at the top. In the file format area, use the dropdown menu to select your desired format.

Anyone can take a picture. But it takes skill, practice and the right equipment to be a good photographer. I've got the advice you need to take the best pictures you can:

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202. The new USB is faster
Q. I'm in the market for a new desktop. I've been shopping around lately. I've seen that a few of the models include USB 3.0. I'm assuming that is a newer version of the USB connection that I use now. Is it only different in terms of speed? Or are there other differences I should know about?

A. Good observation. USB 3.0 is the next generation of USB connection. The current generation is USB 2.0. It's been around for more than nine years.

USB 3.0, or SuperSpeed USB, was released in 2008. While it isn't commonplace yet, it has a lot of potential.

USB 3.0 has a transfer rate of up to five gigabits per second. That's nearly 10 times faster than USB 2.0. Speed isn't the only difference. But it's certainly the most noticeable.

If you're big into digital media, this is a no-brainer. With earlier versions of USB, transferring large files can take a few minutes. With USB 3.0, you can transfer large files in a few seconds.

Another notable difference is in power consumption. USB 3.0 devices take advantage of an idle mode. While it's not in use, whatever is connected draws less power from the computer. This helps in a lot of ways. For example, it extends laptop battery life.

On top of all this, USB 3.0 is backwards-compatible with earlier versions. That means pretty much all existing USB devices will still work with it. You can plug older gadgets into a USB 3.0 port and they'll work.

Keep in mind that you won't get faster speeds if you're using a USB 2.0 device with a USB 3.0 connection. You'll be limited to USB 2.0 speeds.

It is also important to note that USB 3.0 gadgets require new cables. That's because the B plug has changed. The B plug is the end that connects to printers, hard drives and the like. The new USB 3.0 B plug has a different form factor. It won't fit in a USB 2.0 B port.

Compatibility with older products makes USB 3.0 an easy upgrade. After all, you really don't have to worry about it working with your stuff.

On top of that, a number of USB 3.0 devices are coming into the market. There are a bunch of external hard drives that take advantage of the faster connection. And a few manufacturers have even started creating USB 3.0 hubs.

Of course, you can still upgrade an old computer to USB 3.0. That is, provided you have a desktop. You can install an add-on card inside your PC. This will give you the new USB 3.0 ports.

Adding these cards to your current PC isn't difficult. But it takes some know-how and requires that you open up your computer. I don't recommend doing this if you aren't familiar with repairing computers.

In that case, it might be smarter to hold off on USB 3.0. Wait until you buy a new PC to upgrade to USB 3.0.

If you're in the market for a new laptop, you may have a harder time upgrading. That's because the laptop usually needs to have built-in USB 3.0 ports. Right now, not very many laptops include USB 3.0.

The only laptops that are upgradable are ones that offer ExpressCard slots. For these, you can find ExpressCard adapters that provide USB 3.0 ports. Expect to spend about $40 for one of these adapters.

Also laptop makers may be slow to adopt USB 3.0. That's because USB 3.0 isn't directly supported on Intel chipsets yet. USB 2.0 and other high-speed ports do have direct support. It's easier for manufacturers to add USB 2.0 ports than 3.0 ports.

Additionally, USB 3.0 won't make much difference for many devices. For example, printers wouldn't see a benefit. So manufacturers are still waiting to see how high the demand is for USB 3.0.

On top of that, other high-speed connections are in the works as well. One that seems particularly promising is Light Peak.

Intel is the company behind Light Peak. Light Peak uses optical cables to transfer information using light.

Intel has said that Light Peak can transfer data at 10Gbs. That is double the speed of USB 3.0. Click here to learn more about Light Peak.

Upgrades are just part of owning a computer. It seems like every month there's something new and improved out there. Let me help you make sense of it all:

Are you still using a PC with Windows XP on it? You're going to have upgrade sooner or later. Learn how to update to Windows 7.

These days, many laptops are just as powerful as desktops. Find out how to pick the ultimate mobile computer.

Computers get slower with age. That's just what happens. But there are a few tricks to get it running like it was new again.

201. Bring an old PC back to new computer shape
It’s not your imagination. That computer you bought a couple of years ago really is slower. Programs take longer to open and so do Web pages. Booting your machine takes an eternity. This doesn’t mean it’s time for a new computer. There’s probably life left in that old clunker.

You just need to bring it back up to speed. I'll tell you how to do just that.

Check for malware
Spyware, adware and viruses slow your machine. Malware shouldn’t be a problem if you use security software. Still, scan your machine for viruses and spyware. If you need security software, visit my site for free programs. Remove anything that is found.

Clean your hard drive
A full hard drive slows down your computer. It will take longer to access files. So, clean it up. Windows often creates temporary and setup files. Use Disk Cleanup to remove them. Access Disk Cleanup by clicking Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>System Tools>>Disk Cleanup.

After the program scans your drive, you’ll see a list of file categories. Clear Temporary files, Temporary Internet Files and the Recycle Bin. Make your selections and click OK. It may take a few minutes to delete the files.

Remove unwanted programs
You probably have plenty of programs that you no longer use. They’re probably slowing you down.

Remove unwanted programs via the Control Panel. Click Start>>Control Panel. In Vista, double-click Programs and Features. In XP, double-click Add or Remove Programs. Select a program to uninstall and click Uninstall in Vista. In XP, click Change/Remove. Follow the prompts.

Clean restore points
System Restore lets you roll back your Windows settings to an earlier time. It's a handy feature. But too many restore points can slow down certain processes. Clearing old restore points can speed up your PC.

Click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>System Tools>>System Restore. In XP, click System Restore Settings. Select “Turn off System Restore.” Click Apply and then Yes to confirm. Restart System Restore. When prompted, click Yes to re-enable System Restore.

In Vista, click “open System Protection.” Deselect your Drive and confirm your choice. Click OK. Close and reopen System Restore. Click “open System Protection.” Click OK. Close System Restore. Reboot your machine to create a new restore point.

Defragment your drive
Windows often splits files, storing parts in separate areas of the drive. Your computer must work harder to access files. Overcome this problem by defragmenting the drive. Data is rearranged for more efficient access. Read and write times will improve.

Click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>System Tools>>Disk Defragmenter. Select your C: drive and click Analyze. Then, click Defragment. Don’t use your computer or leave programs running while using Disk Defragmenter. It will cause errors.

Check for errors
Errors may also be slowing your hard drive down. Error Checking finds and fixes them for you. It also checks the integrity of your files.

Open (My) Computer and right-click the C: drive. Select Properties. Click Check Now in the Error-checking section of the Tools tab. Select “Scan for and attempt recovery of bad sectors.” Click Start. Fix any bad sectors that are found.

Switch to OpenDNS
You can speed up Web browsing by using a different DNS server. A DNS server helps your browser locate pages online. Your DNS requests may be going through several, distant servers. Instead, use OpenDNS.

OpenDNS sends requests to the closest server. Once you sign up for an account, you have to make a few simple changes on your machine. The service’s site walks you through the process.

Clean your hardware
The outside of your computer needs cleaned, too. Your keyboard is filthy, and your monitor is covered with dust. The fan vents are magnets for dust, pet hair and other things that don’t belong inside your computer.

Start by wiping down your monitor. Turn it off and unplug it from the power socket. Use a soft, lint-free cloth that is slightly damp. Avoid paper towels and window cleaners; they can scratch and cloud the display.

If you have a standard, no-frills keyboard, run it through the dishwasher. Allow it to dry completely before using. Otherwise, unplug the keyboard and wipe it down with a damp cloth. Canned air can remove debris between keys. Likewise, use canned air to clear your computer’s vents.

200. E-book files vary among readers
Q. I'm looking at buying an e-book reader. What e-book formats are used by Google, Amazon, Borders and the rest? Are they interchangeable? For example, can I use Amazon e-books on an iPad? Many thanks.

A. That's an excellent question, Brian. Not a lot of people seem to think about file compatibility before buying. But it's definitely a good thing to check.

E-book compatibility can get complicated. There are actually 15 different e-book formats available. But it isn't just file formats that you need to worry about. DRM, or digital rights management is used to protect e-books. This often restricts purchased e-books to a particular reader.

Apple's iBook service sells books in the ePub (electronic publishing) format. This standard is gaining popularity. All e-book readers except the Kindle support this format. But, due to DRM, the books won't work with other readers.

Amazon predominantly sells books in the proprietary AZW format. This is only compatible with Amazon e-book readers. However, Amazon does have a Kindle app.

This app works on computers, Apple products and smart phones. The Kindle app makes the e-books you've purchased from Amazon available anywhere. That is, with the exception of other e-book readers, of course.

Borders sells books in the ePub, MOBI and PDF formats. Barnes & Noble sells e-books in the proprietary PDB format. However, it is now including ePub as well. Each service has its own DRM that restricts e-book use.

However, both sellers also have apps similar to the Kindle app. You can read purchased books on other gadgets. That includes computers, smart phones and Apple products.

Google Books doesn't actually use one format. It links to books on a number of Websites. That includes paid sites like Amazon or Borders.

For public domain Websites, you will see all sorts of formats. But most should have a TXT or ePub version available. Those won't have DRM and should work on most e-book readers.

The iPad is a pretty safe choice for a reader. It supports ePub and PDF files without DRM. Plus, all the major booksellers have an app for it. So, it can handle pretty much any e-book.

The nook can read public domain ePub e-books and PDF files. It also supports Barnes & Noble ePub and PDB formats with DRM. However, it doesn't support TXT, which is still a common format.

The Kobo will support DRM-free ePub e-books and PDF files. It will also accept ePub files with DRM from Borders. It doesn't support any other file formats or services.

The Kindle primarily supports Amazon's AZW format with DRM. It can also read DRM-free MOBI, TXT and PDF files. Unfortunately, it does not support the ePub format. That may put it at a disadvantage on some public domain e-book Websites.

There is a way around some of the compatibility issues. E-book files without DRM can be converted to other formats. You just need the right program.

One of the best programs for the job is Calibre. This free program can read almost any e-book format available. You can easily import and organize your entire e-book collection.

But more importantly it can convert e-books to other formats. This means a DRM-free ePub e-book can be converted to Kindle-compatible MOBI. And TXT files can be converted to nook or Kobo-friendly ePub. Calibre can even transfer e-books to any major e-book reader.

That means you can download unprotected e-books from anywhere. And they can be used with any e-book reader. That increases your e-book reader's usefulness.

The real sticking point is buying e-books with DRM. Check each bookseller's Website for books you want to buy. And see which one has the best selection for you. That should help you decide.

It took a while, but e-books are finally taking off. Here's what you need to know before you spend your money:

There are quite a few e-book readers on the market. Which one is right for you? Find out with this free video from TVKim.com.

E-books are often discounted, but they still cost money. Find out how to find thousands of e-books for free instead.

E-books are okay, but some people still like real books. Read all the books you are interested in for free. Learn how to swap books online.

199. Computer jargon made simple
Q. I'm getting ready to buy a laptop. But I don't understand all the terminology. It's just a bunch of numbers and letters to me. I'd like to know what everything means before I get to the store. Is there a Website that has all that information? Do you have a recommendation for a $500 to $600 laptop? Thank you very much.

A. I'll explain the most important computer terminology to you. You should also look at my budget laptop buying guide. It covers the most important things to look for in a budget laptop.

Let’s start by talking about the processor, or microchip. This is also known as the central processing unit (CPU). These days, processor speed is measured in gigahertz, for example 1.6GHz.

The processor is the brain of the computer. It performs all the computations. Without it, the software wouldn’t run. It used to be that faster was better. But that's not always the case anymore. Multiple-core processors change the equation a little.

Multi-core processors are single microchips that contain several processor cores. Each core essentially works like an individual processor. The two most common versions are dual-core and quad-core. Dual-core processors have two cores, while quad-core processors have four.

The benefit of more cores is better multitasking. Each core can be working on a separate task simultaneously. A slower multi-core processor is often more useful than a fast single-core processor.

Single-core processors are still available, and they're very inexpensive. But I'd go with a multi-core instead. Multi-core processors have become quite common; you won’t pay much more for a dual-core processor.

Few budget laptops offer quad-core processors. That’s ok. A dual-core processor will be fine for general computing.

You’ll also see 64-bit and 32-bit processors. Basically, 64-bit processors can work through twice as much data at a time. To get the full benefit, you’ll need a 64-bit version of Windows.

There are two major processor manufacturers: Intel and AMD. Both make good products. AMD has the edge on price, but Intel has better performance.

You might see information on something called a chipset. The chipset is part of the motherboard. It allows the CPU to interact with all the other components. There are several different kinds of chipsets for every processor.

For a budget laptop, you don't need to worry about chipsets. Chipsets are more important in high-end computers.

The graphics card is what generates information for display. This includes basic computing, gaming, and media. There are two types of graphics cards: integrated and discrete.

Integrated means the graphic system is built into the motherboard. A common integrated graphic system is the Intel GMA 4500MHD. It's ok for basic computing. Just don't expect to run intensive video games.

Discrete graphics cards are much more powerful. That's good for gaming and heavy visual media creation. But they aren't great for battery life or price. Discrete cards are manufactured by ATI and Nvidia.

Next up is the RAM, which stands for Random Access Memory. It is often just called memory. RAM acts as a temporary storage space for information. Click here to find out what you need to know about selecting RAM.

Hard drives store a lot of information, but they're slow. So frequently accessed information is loaded into RAM, which is much faster. The more RAM you have, the smoother your computer will run.

You want at least 2 gigabytes of RAM. For Windows 7, 4GB would be preferable. It will make a difference when a lot of programs are open. The amount of RAM your computer can use will depend on whether you’re using 32- or 64-bit Windows. Click here to find out what you need to know about selecting RAM.

Computers also have storage. There are HDDs and SSDs. This is where programs and data are kept. HDD stands for hard disk drive. These use magnets and spinning platters. There relatively fragile. But, most computers still use them.

SSD stands for solid-state drive. Unlike HDDs, SSDs have no moving parts. That makes them faster and studier than regular hard drives. However, they also store less and are much more expensive. You won’t see these on budget laptops.

HDDs are pretty inexpensive these days. Most laptops will come with at least a 160GB drive. More are shipping with 320GB drives. That’s more storage than most people need.

Any laptop drive should hold all your data. Just don't try storing an entire library of movies. Photos and music will also take up space, but not as quickly. If you need more storage, you can always get an external hard drive.

Sometimes you will see an RPM number for HDDs. On a laptop, this number will be either 5,400RPM or 7,200RPM. As with all mechanical equipment, RPM stands for rotations per minute. It's how fast the hard drive's mechanism spins.

Laptop hard drives usually run at 5,400RPM. That makes them slower to access information, but they use less energy. That's better for battery life, and the speed difference usually isn't noticeable.

The optical drive is what reads and burns CDs and DVDs. Don’t worry too much about specifications when it comes to optical drives. Just make sure they burn DVDs as well as CDs.

Higher-end laptops may come with Blu-ray Disc drives (BD). These can read Blu-ray discs. And they work for CDs and DVDs. It's up to you if you want to spend the extra money.

Most laptops have built-in networking options. Almost all of them come with an Ethernet connection. That's what you use for a wired network. All modern Ethernet connections go up to 100 megabits per second (Mbps). That's fine for most situations. However, 1000Mbps, or gigabit, connections are also available.

Gigabit connections are great for transferring large files over a network. However, you will also need a gigabit router. And all your other computers will need gigabit connections. Otherwise the extra speed is wasted.

Laptops also ship with wireless networking capability. You will see the number 802.11 followed by a letter. The letter will be "a," "b," "g," "n" or a combination. You want 802.11n or 802.11g, which are the most common choices.

The newest wireless standard is 802.11n. It's the fastest and has the longest range. However, you need an 802.11n wireless router to reap the advantages of it. The 802.11g standard is even more common. All laptops should have this by default. The 802.11a and 802.11b standards are rarely used anymore.

It would be good for the laptop to have 802.11n. That makes it more future-proof. But 802.11n can be added later with an adaptor, if needed.

Laptops come with many types of connections. USB, or Universal Serial Bus, is one of the most important connections. You use it to connect mice, printers and external drives

You might see VGA or DVI for video output. Go with DVI if possible, as VGA is the older connector. Some laptops also have an HDMI port. This allows easier connections to HDTVs. You won't see too many of these on budget laptops.

The laptop's screen resolution is determined by screen size. Pick a screen size that works for you. This is where in-store testing comes in handy.

Speaking of screens, laptops use LCDs, or liquid-crystal displays. You may see some higher-end laptops labeled LED. LED, or light-emitting diode, is a type of LCD backlighting. Click here to learn about the advantages it offers.

Buying the correct computer is just the beginning. Make sure you set up your new computer with security in mind:

Connecting to the Internet is dangerous. But it doesn't have to be. Learn more before you take a new computer online.

Even security software doesn't completely protect against user error. Malicious sites can be tricky to spot. These free software tools can help you.

More people are setting up wireless networks. These are convenient, but can be unsafe. Make sure your wireless network keeps the bad guys out.

198. Kindle, Kobo & new e-book readers
Q. I got an e-mail about a new e-book reader. It will be available from Borders in June. It is called the Kobo eReader. Do you know anything about it? I recently watched your video on e-book readers. It sounds like the Amazon Kindle is still the best one. But I wondered how the Kobo compares. I would really like to know your opinion.

A. I'm glad you asked, Carolyn. If you’re in the market for a gadget, it always pays to check out new products. Something better could be in the pipe. So, let’s take a look at that Kobo.

The Kobo should hit shelves in a couple of weeks. One of the main selling points will be its $150 pricetag. The Kindle is $260, which is about the norm for e-readers. The larger Kindle DX is $490. So, the Kobo has a major advantage.

I personally like the Kindle DX. The large, 9.7-inch screen is great for reading. But many people don't want to pay that much.

The Kobo's screen is 6 inches, the same as the smaller Kindle. Like the Kindle, the Kobo uses an e-ink display. However, the Kobo's display won't be quite as good.

The Kindle can display 16 shades of grey. The Kobo can only display 8 shades. That won't make much of a difference when reading text. But it allows the Kindle to display more than just text.

Control layout is also something to consider. The Kindle has its buttons on the front, along with a full keyboard. In comparison, the Kobo has a single, directional pad on the front. Its other buttons are on the side. Those will be harder to access.

The way the Kobo lays out content on the screen looks pretty good. Everything is nicely organized, and you can select several layout styles. Browsing through your book collection will be pretty easy.

The Kindle does have the edge in built-in memory. It has 2 gigabytes, where the Kobo only has 1GB. But you can increase the Kobo's storage to 4GB with a microSD card.

The Kindle also has a cellular connection. You can purchased and download books from any location. The Kobo requires a computer or a supported Bluetooth smart phone. It is worth noting that it cannot connect to an iPhone.

The Kobo does have a longer battery life. But both readers will run more than a week on a full charge. And the Kindle can turn off its wireless connection. That will increase battery life further.

Both e-readers have similar e-book policies. For example, purchased e-books can be read on a computer or iPhone. And both allow you to view free e-books. Speaking of free e-books, click here for thousands of titles.

Border's e-book pricing is similar to Amazon's, for the most part. But, Amazon seems to have more deals. However, Borders has some current bestselling e-books available that Amazon doesn't.

The Kindle supports more e-book formats that the Kobo. But it doesn’t support the ePub format. The Kobo does. This ePub format is a very popular open e-book standard. It is popular with free e-book sites.

I have free software that will convert e-books to different formats. That means you can get free e-books to work with pretty much any e-reader you buy. It only works with books that don’t have copy protections.

Books purchased from a particular store are another matter. For example, books sold in Amazon’s format will only work on the Kindle. (They’ll also work with Kindle software for the iPhone or your computer.)

The Kindle does have other special features that set it apart. This includes annotating books, text-to-speech and audio book support. Work documents can also be loaded and viewed for a small fee. However, these features aren't essential for everyone.

The Kobo should be an adequate e-reader. Thanks to its price, it’s a good way to dip your toes in the e-reader waters. But it won't have as many features as the Kindle. You'll have to decide if the Kindle's extras are worth $100 more.

Every type of media is going digital, including books. Read these tips so you don’t get left behind:

* You don't have to sacrifice quality for convenience! Click here to find sites offering high-quality music downloads.

* Some people prefer to listen instead of read. Learn how to find and listen to free audio books.

* Don't run into trouble sharing digital files illegally. Find out how you can use the files you download.

197. Extract photos from any video
Q. I was trying to capture a picture of something with my digital camera. But instead, I took about five seconds of video. Can I pull a picture out of the video?

A. Most digital cameras can take videos. Even some smartphone cameras can do this. It's a cool feature. But taking a video when you wanted a photo could be frustrating.

However, you're not out of luck. You can pull a photo out of a video. This can actually be a handy feature. Maybe you don't have lightning-fast reflexes with the shutter button. You can shoot something and grab the best stills later.

There is a big caveat here. Photos extracted from video will not be high quality. They probably won't match true photos. That said, they're good enough for sharing online or e-mailing to friends.

There are a few ways to do this. The easiest method uses VLC Media Player. This program handles almost every file type under the sun. It works on any PC or Mac. And you can download it free from my site.

Open the video with VLC Media Player. Pause the video, if it starts playing automatically. Click on the timeline to navigate through the video. Find the frame you'd like to turn into a photo. Then, click Video>>Snapshot. That's it.

By default, the photo should be saved on your desktop. It will be saved as a PNG file. You can change the file format and location, if you want. It just takes a quick settings change.

On a PC, click Tools>>Preferences. Select Video from the side menu. On a Mac, click VLC>>Preferences. Click the video tab. In both cases, find the settings under the "Video snapshots" heading.

Now, maybe you don't want to download a program for this purpose. It can be done with some software already on your computer. It is more complicated. But it is doable.

On a PC, open your video in Windows Movie Maker. It will show up as an icon in the Contents pane. Click on it to view it. Find the slider under the video. Use it to navigate to the frame you want. Use the Next and Previous Frame buttons to refine your selection.

Then click Tools>>Take Picture from Preview. Name the picture and choose the save location. Finally, click Save. The picture will be saved as a JPG file.

On a Mac, open your video in iMovie. You'll see the video stretched out in the lower half of the window. Hold your mouse over this timeline to navigate through the video. You'll see where you are in the upper right of the window. Find the frame you want a photo of.

Once you've found it, right-click and select "Add Still Frame to Project." You'll see a new entry in the upper portion of the window. iMovie will likely apply a visual effect to the photo. Ignore this. Right-click the image and select "Reveal in Finder."

The photo will be named something like Still 1.jpeg. The number will change when you create multiple stills. You can rename and move the file from here.

Photography isn't just for professionals:

- Want to take stunning photos? You need a great camera

- Keep people from looking fat in your photos

- Are your photos good enough to sell? Learn how to do it

196. Q. What in the world is "cloud computing?"
A. I like you, Phil. No beating around the bush. No extraneous detail. Your question is directly to the point!

The term "cloud computing" isn't terribly clear. But it's better than some acronym. (In fact, there is an acronym--SaaS, or software as a service. See, isn't cloud computing better?)

Cloud, as used by geeks, refers to the Internet. So, people computing in the cloud are running software on somebody else's computers. They access those computers via the Internet. The computers could be next door or overseas.

When they do that, they don't have to install the software. They don't have to update it. They don't have to upgrade whenever a new version appears. They don't need more powerful computers to run new versions.

The guys on the other end take care of all that. Does that save the user loads of money? Probably not. These services are not cheap, especially for business. But they certainly can reduce aggravation. Not having to futz with software means firms can focus on business.

This is a growing trend. Companies that run their own programs put a fortune into computer equipment. More money is spent on the people who run them. Neither the people nor the computers, in most cases, produce revenue. They're a support service.

There are many other services--for instance, janitorial, public relations and security. They are all costs. Companies are in business to make money. One way they make money is by outsourcing services. And one cost reduction might be software.

There's a downside to this. Outsourced service isn't always first rate. Sometimes, dealing with people hundreds or thousands of miles away isn't worthwhile. This is actually a big fly in the ointment.

Let me give you a couple examples from my experience. My salespeople use customer relationship management (CRM) software. These tend to be complicated programs. Rather than install and maintain software, we use Salesforce.com. We have had no problems with it. We don't have to worry about security, updates or upgrades. Salesforce takes care of that. That situation has worked out well.

And here's one that didn't work out: Years ago, a hosting company ran my Web site. It also handled my e-mail. I had numerous little problems with that. Eventually, I brought all of that in-house. Running all that stuff is expensive. And it took a long time to find people who could run it properly.

My Web site and e-mail are absolutely critical. I've got first-rate people now. I know they're on top of the computer system. So, I sleep better with it in-house.

Phil, you are using cloud computing now. When you do an Internet search, you are using Google's computers. Or, Yahoo!'s, or Microsoft's. The search software is not on your computer.

There are many photo-editing programs, both free and paid. Just check my site. But you can also do that in the cloud. Here are five free ones. There are many others.

Google also has an office package online--Google Docs. It includes a word processor, spreadsheet and presentation program. Is it less complete than Microsoft Office? Oh, yes. But it's free, and Microsoft Office costs hundreds of dollars.

Furthermore, Microsoft Office has regular security problems. If you use Google, that shouldn't be your concern. Google should take care of those issues.

Some security experts worry about the security of cloud computing. Companies that host these Internet systems insist that they're safe. Are they? How can you know? I'm sure some companies will avoid cloud computing for just that reason.

There's also the matter of the Internet. Will it always be up and running? That is rarely a problem. But it's not something you can control.

Whatever the downside, the world is moving toward cloud computing. Most people don't want to bother with software. As they become aware of the cloud, they will move toward it. But, as your question illustrates, advocates don't make it terribly clear.

Anyway, that's a long-winded answer to your question. Cloud computing could have a more illustrative name. But it's better than SaaS!

195. Buying a digital photo frame
Q. I have tons of photos of my family on my computer. I'd like to display them around my house. But there are way too many to print out and hang. So, I'm looking into digital photo frames. What kinds of photo frames are available?

A. Digital photo frames are really cool. You can hang them on your wall or put them on your desk. Most can hold thousands of photos. And they’ll automatically rotate through them. Some can even pull photos from online photo-sharing sites.

Several companies make quality digital photo frames. The main differences are in price and screen size. But a few models have unique features.

Pandigital makes a wide range of simple photo frames. They range from 5.6 to 12 inches. Prices range from $50 to $200. These are fairly barebones. They feature some internal memory. But a memory card reader can take photos right from your camera. They accept SD and Memory Stick cards and USB drives.

Pandigital does have two frames that stand out. The 12-inch model ($200) is one of the largest I've seen. You’ll also find a collage multi-frame ($80). It’s made up of four 7-inch frames – two horizontal, two vertical. You could show off a lot of pictures with it.

Hewlett-Packard sells a few digital photo frames. Its 7- ($100), 8- ($130) and 10.4-inch ($180) frames have the same features. Each has a memory card reader and USB port. They can show videos, complete with audio, as well as photos.

Pandigital also has an 8-inch ($160) frame with built-in Wi-Fi. It can pull photos from Facebook, MySpace, Flickr, Picasa and more. If you store your photos online, they can show up automatically. It also shows the weather, streams videos from YouTube and accesses Twitter.

Sony has nearly a dozen photo frames. The prices range from $100 to $300. You’ll find screen sizes from 7 to 10.2 inches. All come with a remote control, memory card reader and USB port.

Again, a few models have unique features. For $200, you can get a 7-inch frame combined with a printer. View all your photos. Then print them on photo paper at the touch of a button. The 10.2-inch frame ($300) includes CreativeEdit software. This allows you to decorate photos right on the frame. Think of it as digital scrapbooking. It also features an HDMI output. Hook it up to an HDTV to really show off your photos.

Kodak sells 15 photo frames. They range from 5 inches ($60) to 10 inches ($230). All have memory card readers and USB ports. You can also connect them directly to a computer to transfer photos. Some of the more expensive models have built-in Wi-Fi. They can pull photos from Kodak Gallery and Flickr.

And maybe you have a wheelbarrow full of cash. If so, Kodak offers the world’s first OLED (organic light-emitting diode) display. This 7-inch frame has built-in Wi-Fi and a stunning screen. It runs a mere $1,000!

194. Sharing a printer on a mixed network, 9/25/2009
Q. I have a home network with two XP desktops. I also have a MacBook. I want to share a printer, but my router doesn't have a USB port. I don't want to invest in a print server. So, I have to leave the printer connected to one of the desktops. I've spent hours trying to get the network configuration right. But I am still unable to print from the MacBook. Can you help?

A. Networking trips up a lot of people. Eeven if you're a pro, it is easy to get into a muddle. Even a simple mistake will mess things up. Mix operating systems, and lotsa luck!

Fortunately, you're dealing with a fairly simple problem. However, you haven't figured it out because it is obscure.

Rather than blurt out the solution, I'll go through the entire process. I'm sure there are others who would like to share a printer between Windows and Macs. They could use the step-by-step instructions.

Obviously, the printer needs to be connected to a computer. Both must be powered on. And all computers must be on the same network. Make sure the network name is EXACTLY the same in each computer.

Next, let's enable printer sharing in Windows XP. Click Start>>Printers and Faxes. You'll see a list of your printers. Right-click the printer you would like to share. Select Sharing. This opens the printer's Properties box to the Sharing tab.

Click "Share this printer." Enter a name for the printer. This is how you will identify the printer on your Mac. The name cannot have more than 12 characters. Otherwise, Mac OS X won't recognize it.

I'm 99.9 percent sure that this is what's tripping you up, Hal. But there could be one other problem. Before you close the Properties box, open the General tab. Click in the Comment box. Remove any special characters. And make sure that there is no hard return at the end of the comment.

Uh-huh, you're saying. What was that?

Let's start with the Comment box. Maybe you've put something in there for future reference. Or perhaps a printer puts something in there. Maybe it's blank. Whatever. You're limited on what you can have in that box.

If something is written there, you can't have special characters. Those are any typed characters other than A-Z, 0-9, !, $, *, (, ), _, +, -, ' ,. . That is, you can use letters, numbers, exclamation mark, dollar sign, asterisk, open parenthesis, close parenthesis, underscore, plus sign, minus sign, apostrophe and period. Anything else must be deleted. Nothing to it.

What's a hard return? You enter a hard return when you press Enter. There's a basic problem with getting rid of them: They're invisible.

So, place the cursor in the last line of the comment. Depress the right arrow button. If the cursor stops at the end of the line, you're OK. If it goes to the next line, there's a return at the end of the comment. Press the backspace.

Move the cursor a few characters to the left. Depress the right button. If the cursor stops at the end of the line, great. If not, press Backspace. Test it again. Repeat until the cursor stops at the end of the line.

Of course, the Comment box could look blank. It probably is. But there could be hard returns there. They're invisible, remember? (There could be hadrons there, too. But the Mac can live with them.)

So click near the bottom of the box. If the cursor jumps to the top left, you're OK. If it jumps somewhere else, depress the backspace until it goes to the beginning of the box.

If it stays where you click, you must be in a field of hard returns. (Yeah, I'm tired of this, too!) You'll have to delete and backspace until everything is cleared up. What have you been doing in that box?

When you're done, click Apply and OK.

Note: If you're sharing multiple printers, also check their properties. Delete special characters and returns from the Comment section. Special characters in one shared printer can affect the sharing of other printers.

Now you're ready to add the printer on the Mac. Click System Preferences on the Dock. Or, click the Apple menu and select System Preferences.

Click the Print & Fax icon. You'll see a list of printers that your Mac can use. Click the + sign below this list.

In the Printer Browser window, click Windows. In the first column, select the workgroup name. Then select the name of the computer to which the printer is attached.

If prompted, enter a user name and password for the computer. In the third column, select your printer. Click the Print Using dropdown menu. Select the driver for the printer. Click Add.

You'll probably also want to specify the printer in the Default Printer dropdown box. When you're done, close System Preferences. You should be good to go!

For more help with Macs, iPods and Apple software, hit my site:

    • 8 tips for new Mac users
    • 5 insider tips for iTunes
    • Backing up an iTunes library
    • Recovering music from an iPod
    • Tracking a lost or stolen iPhone

193. Getting around ink expiration, 9/21/2009
Q. How can I override the expiration dates on Hewlett-Packard printer cartridges? I can insert an unused cartridge and the system tells me it has expired. Is there any program I can use to override this?

A. I don't know of a program that will override the expiration. However, there might be some work-arounds.

Hewlett-Packard says relatively few of its cartridges expire. And many of those can still be used. You just have to follow instructions on the screen. However, some are not usable. That sounds like your situation.

According to the company site, expiration is intended to protect printers. Air and water can cause the ink to deteriorate, HP says. In printers with separate cartridges and printheads, the printer can be damaged.

This is an old problem. I haven't heard anything about it in some time. I'll bet you have an older printer.

Apparently, this is often a case of expired cartridges bought on eBay. The expiration can turn a great buy into a complete loss.

HP may well be right about protecting printers. But this expiration also hinders efforts by refillers to sell ink. That certainly works to HP's advantage. Remember, manufacturers practically give away printers. They make lots of money selling replacement cartridges.

I'm not sure that's a fair criticism, though. Most of HP's cartridges include the printhead. And it doesn't expire them.

I found some ways online to get around the expirations, supposedly. I'm not recommending any of these! If you wreck your printer, don't call.

Also, these instructions are at least a few years old. I didn't see anything that mentioned a Windows version. So I assume they're for Windows XP, and maybe its predecessors. I don't know if they work on Windows Vista.

--The chip in the cartridges supposedly looks at the computer clock. Set the clock back one year. Do your printing, then reset the clock. Sounds like a hassle to me.

--Disconnect the printer cables. Find the battery inside the printer. Disconnect it for an hour. Sounds like another hassle. You can find instructions for various HP printers online. Numerous people say this works.

--Look for a file or two beginning with hp and ending with .ini. Here's a possible path: Windows\system32\spool\drivers\w32x86\3\hp*.ini. Find a line that reads:

Pencheck=0100

Change it to:

Pencheck=0000

--If you can't find the hp*.ini file, try editing the Registry. In Windows XP, click Start>>Run. Enter "regedit" (minus the quotes) in the box and click OK. In Windows Vista, click Start. In the Start Search box, enter "regedit" (minus the quotes). Press Enter.

Follow this path: HKLM/software/Hewlett-Packard/HP Printers/HPWH Toolbox/Common. On the right side, right-click Ink and select modify. Change 0100 to 0000. Close regedit and reboot.

(Before you start fooling around in the Registry, back it up. Check my tip for instructions.)

There are probably more ideas on the Web. If you root around, I'll bet you'll find them.

I assume the printers involved are old. So the warranties would be expired. But if yours is still good, be careful. Mucking around inside the printer could void the warranty.

Can't get enough about printers? Here's more:

• Good printer prints bad stuff

• What does your printer remember?

• Laser printers (Buying Guide)

192. When software is too cheap, 9/2/2009
Q. I purchased software from HiTechGate.com in early May. I was unable to install it. (The program was looking for a file that it could not find.) After a number of e-mails, most of which they did not answer, I concluded that I have been ripped off. I don't see how I can get my money back, but I would like to make my ordeal public for the benefit of others (and to satisfy my own sense of justice). Can you recommend an agency or forum to which I can address my complaints?

A. HiTechGate.com is selling software very cheaply. In fact, it's too cheap.

HiTechGate says it sells OEM (original equipment manufacturer) version software. These versions are included on new computers. They are much cheaper than the retail copies.

OEM stores abound on the Web. They presumably get their software through computer manufacturers. The software industry grumbles about these sellers, but registers their software.

Typically, the software is sold with a piece of hardware, such as a cable. That apparently makes it legal. The programs are complete, but manuals and support are not included.

HiTechGate carries an array of expensive programs. For instance, it offers Adobe's Acrobat 9 Pro Extended for $27. I found that program online at OEM stores for about $170. Adobe's retail price is $699! So, HiTechGate's price is quite a bargain.

HiTechGate notes on its site that the software cannot be registered. That may be an indication that it's not legal. You may have a disc burned from a legitimate copy. Long ago, software publishers found ways to block counterfeit copies.

I think this is a case of too good to be true. Anyone with common sense should smell something fishy. Basically, you tried to get something for nothing. Instead, you got nothing for a little something. Count yourself lucky that it was no worse.

You can save money buying from OEM stores. But you won't get HiTechGate's prices. I'd just chalk it up to life's lessons.

However, you can complain, if you want. I'd start with the Better Business Bureau. You could also complain to the Attorney General's Office in Georgia.

The software industry maintains an agency that pursues software counterfeiting. That is the Business Software Alliance. I would drop it a line.

Not all great deals are bummers. I list hundreds of free programs on my site. Check them out in my Downloads section.

Adobe's Acrobat, mentioned previously, is used to produce PDF files. These are great for exchanging documents over the Internet. But you don't have to pay Acrobat's high price. Try these free PDF programs:

    • Split and merge PDF documents
    • A PDF creator for Macs
   • Convert PDF files to Word documents

191. Flash Player and 64-bit Windows, 8/4/2009
Q. I just bought a laptop. It has a 64-bit processor and 64-bit Windows. I'm trying to download the Flash Player for Internet Explorer. However, I get an error message. It says that Flash Player won't run on 64-bit Internet Explorer. Does that mean I can't view any Flash content on my machine?

A. It hasn't been long since the first 64-bit version of Windows was released. Now, it is showing up more and more on new machines.

Unfortunately, not all of the wrinkles have been ironed out. For example, you'll have trouble finding drivers for older hardware. And manufacturers have been slow to introduce 64-bit software.

This is the case with Flash Player. Adobe Systems is working on a version for 64-bit browsers.

Flash makes the Internet more interactive. For example, it is often used in graphic ads. But it's really known for Web videos. YouTube uses it for its video format.

So, surfing the Net without Flash would be dull. You won't even be able to watch my Videos of the Day!

Fortunately, you can use Flash Player on 64-bit Windows. You just can't use the 64-bit version of Internet Explorer.

Fortunately, though, there is a 32-bit version included in Windows. It should be the default version on the Quick Launch bar and the programs menu.

You can track it down, if necessary. Go to Windows Explorer (Right-click the Start button. Click Explore.) Open C:\Program Files (x86)\Internet Explorer\iexplore.exe.

You may want to make a shortcut to it on your desktop. Right-click the iexplore.exe file and select Send To>>Desktop (create shortcut). You can access it easily when you need to access a Flash-based site.

You have another option. You can use the free Firefox browser. It is a 32-bit browser. So, you shouldn't have any trouble with Flash Player. Download Firefox from my site now!

As I said, machines running 64-bit Windows are increasingly common. But is one right for you? Find out in my handy tip! For more on the major benefit of 64-bit computing, check this tip.

Finally, the free programs in my Security Center work with 64-bit Windows. That is, with one exception. You'll need to look elsewhere for a firewall. Fortunately, I have a free firewall for 64-bit Windows on my site! Protect yourself now!

190. Attaching a hard drive to your network, 8/1/2009
Q. I would like to share data between my laptop and desktop computers. I don't want to use a thumb drive to move the data between machines. Rather, I want the data to be available automatically. Also, I don't want to leave a computer on all the time. So, can I attach a hard drive to my router?

A. Yes. This is called network attached storage. Any machine on your network could access the drive.

Your first option is to purchase a NAS drive. These look much like external hard drives. However, they have an Ethernet port to connect to a router. They often contain USB ports for connecting additional hard drives or printers.

You'll pay a premium for NAS drives. That's because they are more complex than standard external drives. They're much like computers. They have an operating system and software for managing the flow of data.

You can buy NAS units that contain one or more hard drives. You can also purchase NAS enclosures and add drives. If you have spare hard drives, this can save you money.

You may already have an external hard drive. In that case, you can purchase a NAS adapter. Basically, that's a small box that attaches to your router. It has a USB port for connecting your plain-Jane external drive.

You may have trouble finding these adapters. I've only seen a few. Expect to pay $50 to $100. Pogoplug and Addonics are two companies to check.

The adapters can be tricky to set up. And they allow for only one external drive. Consider that before going with this option.

A better solution is to upgrade your router. Many routers contain built-in USB ports.

Research routers carefully. The presence of USB ports does not mean you can attach a hard drive. Some routers only accept printers.

Likewise, you'll find plenty of print servers. These allow you to attach USB printers to your router. However, they cannot be used to attach hard drives.

Networking can trip up even the most computer-savvy folks. But you don't have to struggle with your network. Check out these great sites:

• Step-by-step, secure your wireless network

• Setting up a network in Vista

• 6 things to know about wireless networking

• Stay secure on an open network

189. Using System Restore, 7/30/2009
Q. I'm having trouble installing hardware. I would like to roll back my computer to an earlier time. Can you help me with System Restore?

A. System Restore is one of the handiest features in Windows. It lets you roll your machine back to an earlier point in time. Your data is not affected, just your Windows configuration. It can be a lifesaver when dealing with a computer problem.

I have a tip on my site that covers XP's System Restore. If you're using Vista, keep reading!

To access System Restore, click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>> System Tools>>System Restore.

System Restore will present you with a few options. First, you can select the recommended restore point. This is the last restore point created on the machine. For it, select "Recommended restore."

You can also use an earlier restore point. Select "Choose a different restore point." This screen also lets you create restore points. I'll have more on that in a minute.

Once you've made your selection, click Next. You'll see a list of available restore points. The list that appears by default is limited to five days of restore points. But, you can see more, if you choose. Click "Show restore points older than 5 days."

You don't need to select blindly. A brief description appears next to each restore point. You should see the event that triggered each. Select one and click Next.

On the next screen, click Finish. This will restart your computer. So, make sure all your programs are closed before proceeding.

Windows creates restore points periodically. For example, it creates them when you boot your machine or install new software. They're also created before updates and hardware drivers are installed.

You can also create a restore point on your own, if you wish. To do this, click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>System Tools>>System Restore.

Click "open System Protection." In the dialog box that opens, click Create on the system Protection tab. Click Apply and OK. Your restore point is created.

Now, Windows only provides a limited amount of space for restore points. Once the limit is reached, it starts deleting them, oldest ones first.

By default, System Restore can use 15 percent of hard drive space. You can alter this via the Command Prompt. However, I discourage this. You should be fine with the allotted space. And you can create problems if you misuse the command prompt.

If you run out of room, you can easily free up space. Disable and re-enable system restore. This wipes out the restore points.

To disable system restore, click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>> System Tools>>System Restore. On the screen that opens, click "open System Protection."

In the list of available discs, deselect your hard drive. Click Apply. Then, reselect it, and click Apply>>OK.

Incidentally, malware often hides in System Restore. So, clean out restore points after recovering from malware.

Now, in Vista, System Restore is tied in with Shadow Copy. Shadow Copy is a feature available in some Vista versions that helps you recover files. You can learn all about it—and its dangers— in my must-read tip. (See Question 188, next below.)

Need more help with Windows Vista? Don't miss these excellent tips on my site:

• Tweak UAC to end annoying pop-ups

• Get a detailed health report of your machine

• Should you use Vista's BitLocker?

• Teach Vista to read your writing

188. Using System Restore, 10/18/2005
Q. My son downloaded a game demo last week. The game would crash at random times and we would have to restart the computer. I finally uninstalled the thing, but the same thing is still happening. How can I just get my computer back to normal? I'm using Windows ME.

A. Games, especially free games, can be of dubious quality. Some are created by programmers as practice or a hobby. And low-quality games can come with low-quality uninstallers. So there are probably a few traces of that game left on your computer.

Fortunately, Windows has just the thing for these circumstances. It's a built-in tool called System Restore. System Restore debuted in Windows Me. It is also part of Windows XP. It takes snapshots of your system. The snapshots are called restore points.

System Restore is useful if you run into sudden problems in Windows. You can return your system to the way it was before problems started. By default, System Restore may keep restore points for the last 90 days. Choose a date and Windows will become its former self.

Restore points are made automatically every 24 hours. That's assuming the computer is turned on. Otherwise, the restore point is created when you boot up. Restore points also are created when you install a program or download an unsigned driver. Drivers tell Windows how to use devices like printers. Unsigned drivers are those not certified by Microsoft.

To find System Restore, click Start>>All Programs>> Accessories>>System Tools>>System Restore. To choose a restore point, select "Restore my computer to an earlier time." Then click the Next button.

System Restore will display a miniature calendar. Select any day emphasized in bold. Look for the day that you installed the game. That day's restore points will be listed beside the calendar. Each restore point also bears a short description to help you choose. They typically look something like "Windows Update" or "Installed iTunes."

Select a restore point and click the Next button. System Restore will prompt you to confirm your choice. Click the Next button. Your computer will automatically shut down and restart using the restore point.

System Restore does not disturb your e-mail or other documents. In fact, it leaves the entire My Documents folder untouched. And a new restore point is made when you use System Restore. It ensures that you can undo the restore if you're not satisfied.

System Restore is handy, but it involves a trade-off: It uses a lot of space. It can use up to 12 percent of your hard drive. But you can adjust the amount of space allowed for System Restore.

In Windows Me, click Start>>Settings>>Control Panel. Double-click System. Select the Performance tab. Click the File System button. Select the Hard Disk tab. Under Settings, you'll find a slider to adjust System Restore's allowed space. But don't be too stingy. System Restore requires at least 200 megabytes to continue making restore points. And the allowed space determines how far back you can restore your computer.

In Windows XP, click Start>>Control Panel. Double-click System. Select the System Restore tab. You'll see the slider to adjust the space reserved for System Restore.

Do not rely on System Restore as a general backup. It won't recover old versions of your documents. Neither will it recover documents that you've deleted. It simply restores Windows to an earlier state.

187. Removing bloatware from new computers, 7/22/2009
Q. My computer came with a bunch of shortcuts already on my desktop. Most seem to be for games. But there are other programs, too. I would love to have some additional desktop space. How do I get rid of these preinstalled programs?

A. New computers typically come with pre-installed software. These are mainly trials of programs.

These pre-installed programs are sometimes called bloatware or craplets. They take up space, power and time. Plus, they're trying to sell you things you probably don't need.

Software companies pay computer manufacturers to install these programs. The bloatware helps hold down computer prices. So, I guess it's not all bad.

Getting rid of the stuff is easier said than done. You may be able to remove some through Control Panel. Click Start>>Control Panel. Select Classic View on the left. Double-click Programs and Features. Select the programs and click Uninstall.

But that's not going to work with everything. Not all of the trial software will be on that list. Some will run as standalone applications. They don't actually install anything. So, you have to find another way to get rid of them.

A common type of bloatware is security programs. You'll often find trial versions of McAfee or Norton software. Both companies make quality products. But you don't really need to pay for good security programs. I have everything you need in my Security Center.

Removing these security programs can be tough. There are often multiple components hidden in dark corners. Thankfully, McAfee and Norton offer great removal tools.

Game services are also popular pieces of bloatware. They're not free games like Minesweeper and Solitaire. These shortcuts often connect you to online game stores. To remove these, I recommend using PC Decrapifier.

In fact, PC Decrapifier is great for all new computers. It removes many common types of bloatware. Using it gives you a nice clean slate to start from. You won't have shortcuts crowding your desktop. And only the programs you want will be taxing your processor.

If you're looking for games, I have free ones on my site.

If nothing else works, remove bloatware in Windows Explorer. First, go to Windows Explorer (Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>Windows Explorer). Click Computer>>Local Disk C:>>Program Files. Delete the bloatware from Program Files.

Don't forget to secure your computer:

• Learn how to protect your new computer

• Even new Macs need to be secured

• Your home wireless network needs protection, too

186. Correct your file associations, 7/17/2009
Q. My computer is acting funny. My photos are opening in Microsoft Word. My videos are opening in the wrong video program. What is going on? How can I get everything straight again?

A. This problem is actually pretty common. It's also fairly easy to fix. File associations tie file types to specific programs. When you double-click a file, it opens in that program. Your file associations apparently are mixed up.

There are a couple of ways this happens. You can do it by accident. That's probably what happened to your photos. There's no other reason they should be opening in Word.

Installing new programs can also change file associations. Music and video programs are notorious for doing this. They want to take over the role of default player. And they'll do it if you're not careful.

Thankfully, resetting these associations is fairly easy. You didn't say if you were using a Mac or PC. So, I'll cover both. Either way the process is simple. First, find one of the files you're having trouble with.

In Windows Vista, right-click the file. Select Open With>>Choose Default Program. You'll see a list of programs. Select the program you want to use. Or hit Browse to add a program to the list. Check the box labeled "Always use the selected program to open this kind of file." Click OK.

In Windows XP, right-click the file. Select Open With. Find the program you want to use. Or click Browse to find another program. Again, check "Always use the selected program to open this kind of file." Click OK.

In Mac OS X, right-click the file. Select Get Info. Click the heading labeled "Open with." Use the dropdown menu to select a suggested program. Or click Other to browse for something else. Click Change All. Close the window.

Now those files will open with the correct programs.

Sometimes, a program isn't available to open a particular file. These free programs will handle common file types:

• Video files come in a ridiculous number of formats. This media player can open them all.

• You need a suite to open office documents. Microsoft Office is the standard, but it's expensive. For a free alternative, try OpenOffice.org.

• PDF files are easily opened with Adobe Reader. But it isn't the best program. Instead, try Foxit Reader or Sumatra.

185. The mysterious case of the TV cables, 7/15/2009
Q. I need help with HDMI cables. I recently signed up for U-verse television service. The receiver has an output for HDMI. Should I use this output? Cables range from $25 to $100. Are the expensive cables really that much better?

A. The short answer to your question is no. Inexpensive cables have been found in tests to work fine. So I wouldn't waste money on the expensive stuff.

However, television connections confuse a lot of people. With so many choices, it's difficult to know which to choose. You don't necessarily have to use HDMI. Let's look at that first. Then we'll talk about prices.

AT&T's U-verse service includes high-definition programming. I assume you want that HD service. Typically, signal-receiving boxes include two HD connections: HDMI and component video. That's true of TVs, too. Component is an analog connection. HDMI is digital.

Many people prefer HDMI, because it is simpler. There's only one cable; it carries both video and audio.

Component has three connections for video alone. The cables carry red, blue and green channels. Separate audio cables are required.

Because component is analog, the television must convert the signal to digital. Component video is often considered inferior to HDMI for that reason.

However, that is not necessarily true. Various digital encoding techniques are available. So, the TV probably must convert digital signals, too.

For example, DVD recordings have non-square pixels. Your television's pixels are square. The television must scale the digital signal from a DVD player.

The quality of signal conversions depends on your gear. Digital-to-digital conversion isn't necessarily better than analog-to-digital conversion.

You also need to consider cable length. An analog cable can transfer a signal over a relatively long distance. You won't notice much degradation in quality. In comparison, data loss is more likely with long digital cables. You could get pixel dropouts, resulting in a sparkly picture.

Finally, with HDMI, you need to worry about High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection. HDCP is designed to prevent the copying of digital content.

HDCP-compliant gadgets can't transmit high-definition digital content to non-HDCP-compliant gadgets. Your set-top box could use HDCP. But your television might not. In that case, the box won't transfer a signal to the TV over HDMI. That should only be a problem with older TVs.

HDCP is not an issue with component video cables, because they're analog.

So, let's get to your question, already! We'll assume you're going with HDMI. You'll see a wide range in cable prices.

The prices are often skewed toward the high end. The stores are making up for low TV prices with expensive accessories. Sales clerks often tout the benefits of high-priced cables.

I shudder to think that anyone is spending $100 on a cable. Studies have shown that these so-called premium cables aren't better than lower-priced ones.

You said you found a cable for $25. This is a reasonable price for an HDMI cable. You can do even better by a few dollars if you shop online.

This guidance goes for component cables, too. In fact, most cabling can be found at very high prices. Forget it; buy the inexpensive stuff.

Gear isn't everything! When it comes to home theaters, make sure the setup is right. Kick your home theater experience up a notch with these handy tips:

• Are you sitting the right distance from your TV?

• Bridge the gap between computer and TV

• Calibrate your HDTV for a better picture

• Get the best surround sound experience

• Catch your favorite shows for free online

184. Choosing the right computer monitor, 7/13/2009
Q. I'm in the market for a computer monitor. I need one that is 24 inches or wider. But I'm not sure about specifications. I've heard you talk about response time, contrast ratio and candelas. Can you offer me some advice and tell me what these things are?

A. These days, you really only have one choice when it comes to monitors. You're going to get a flat-panel LCD, or liquid crystal display.

However, you may see two types of LCDs. You can get a regular LCD. Or, you can purchase an LCD with an LED backlight.

A backlight that uses light-emitting diodes carries a hefty premium. For example, Apple's 24-inch LED-backlit LCD is $900. A traditional 24-inch LCD starts around $250.

Of course, there are many advantages to LED backlights. They use less energy. So, you'll save money in the long term. You'll also get a much better picture. I have all of the advantages in my tip; just click here.

LED backlights are not yet common. Only a few such monitors are available. Their prices will fall as the technology matures.

When you look at monitors, pay close attention to resolution. You want 1920x1080, minimum. This will give you full high definition for watching movies.

Response time and contrast ratio are both important. With a fast response time, you won't see smearing when you watch videos.

Response time is measured in milliseconds. The lower the number, the better. These days, you can get a monitor with a 2ms response time for a low price. Set 6ms or 8ms as your cutoff.

Contrast is expressed as a ratio, like 1,000:1. It is the ratio of the whitest white to the blackest black. A high contrast ratio should give you a clearer, crisper picture.

Unfortunately, the operative word here is "should." There is no universal standard for measuring contrast ratio. So, the numbers you will see are of limited use. They're helpful for comparing monitors from the same manufacturer. I wouldn't use them for much else.

Candelas is not a feature you look for, per se. Rather, it is a unit of measurement; it refers to a screen's luminance. Luminance, or brightness, is measured in candelas per square meter (cd/m2).

Again, with luminance, you want to aim for a high number. I wouldn't accept less than 300 cd/m2.

Viewing angle is another issue. The wider the viewing angle, the easier it is to see from the side.

When selecting an HDTV, you want a wide viewing angle. But you may want a narrower viewing angle with a monitor. That will give you more privacy.

The monitor's inputs must match the outputs on your computer. Most likely, you'll use a DVI connection. That is digital, as is HDMI. However, HDMI is rare on monitors.

Failing DVI, use VGA. VGA is a common analog connection; most computers and monitors support it. It may be inferior to digital, though.

You might want to consider extras. For instance, manufacturers are increasingly building in Webcams. That's nice if you like to video chat.

You might also want a monitor with speakers and USB ports. The benefits of these extras should be obvious.

Look for an adjustable stand, too. Many monitors don't have them. An adjustable stand will help you position the display correctly. Proper screen height is essential for good ergonomics.

Do your neck, back and shoulders ache after you use your computer? Then your monitor setup likely isn't ergonomically correct. My tip will put an end to back pain caused by a bad setup. You don't want to miss it!

Want to get more from your computer monitor? I have plenty of great tips on my site that will help you do just that:

• Monitors double as TVs

• Get a better picture from your flat panel

• Use two monitors for better productivity

183. Windows 64-bit vs. 32-bit
Q. I am building a computer. I have seen the upgrade offer for Windows 7 and plan to use it. I just have a question about 64-bit computing. What are its pros and cons? Also, what is required for a 64-bit machine? Is it just software, or do I need specific hardware?

A. The transition from 32- to 64-bit computing has been less than smooth. Publishers have been slow to develop 64-bit programs. And peripherals, like printers, sometimes don't work.

But the biggest obstacle may just be consumers. Many are unaware of the difference between 32- and 64-bit machines. Others, like you, don't know what's required for 64-bit computing.

Virtually all processors today are 64-bit. Be sure the chipset on your motherboard is also compatible with 64-bit. (It probably is.)

You can run either 32- or 64-bit Windows on 64-bit hardware. However, to get the benefits of 64-bit computing, you need 64-bit Windows.

Microsoft first released a 64-bit version of Windows XP several years ago. Virtually all versions of Vista are available in 64-bit Windows. In fact, it is increasingly common to find 64-bit Windows preinstalled on PCs.

I mentioned that publishers have been slow developing software. This shouldn't concern you too much. You can run most 32-bit programs on 64-bit Windows. It includes an emulation program to handle them.

Most compatibility problems with 64-bit Windows have been ironed out. It is increasingly common for manufacturers to offer 64-bit drivers. Drivers were a major hang-up in the early days of 64-bit Windows. Drivers help hardware work with Windows.

You shouldn't have many problems with newer hardware. But you may find that older peripherals are incompatible.

The biggest problem with 64-bit Windows is finding a firewall. There are very few of them. Fortunately, though, you do have options. Learn about them in my must-read tip. It even includes a link to a free firewall for 64-bit Windows!

The biggest benefit of 64-bit Windows is memory capacity. Thirty-two-bit Windows is limited to 4 gigabytes of memory. Sixty-four-bit Windows can access exponentially more. I recommend that you read this excellent tip on my site. It offers a quick, easy-to-understand rundown of the benefits of 64-bit computing. Read it before you get any deeper into building your computer!

Finally, let's talk about Windows 7 for a minute. It's true that Microsoft is offering special upgrade deals. You can learn all about the deals in my informative tip.

There are a few problems with your plan to take advantage of these deals, though. First, the discounted upgrades expire today. Microsoft has also limited the quantity of discount upgrades. Stores may be all sold out.

Also, the discounts only apply to upgrade versions of Windows 7. You won't be able to install the software on a machine unless it already runs Windows. Since you're building a machine, you need a full version of Vista.

You do have another option, though. You could download and install the free Windows 7 Release Candidate. That should run OK. It will die next June, so you'd eventually have to buy a full version of Windows 7. But you could skip Vista. Click here to download it.

181. Adding a printer to your network
Q. I have two computers at home. One runs Windows XP; the other, Vista. The Vista computer is new. I needed to network a printer for both computers. I bought the printer at Best Buy. The Geek Squad said they could network it for $300. I about fell through the floor. I told them never mind, I'll go to Kim Komando and find out how it is done. The Geek Squad guy actually asked for your Web address. You are my hero, Kim!

A. Well, thank you very much. This is a sweet note. I'm glad I was able to help you. And I'm REALLY glad I could save you $300!

I get quite a few questions about printers. People are often vexed by networking setups. But, really, Windows makes it easy. In fact, it gets easier with each version of Windows.

You have several options. You can hook your printer directly to the router. The printer can be connected to a networked computer. Or, you can use a print server. And if you have a wireless network, it may connect wirelessly.

Assuming the printer isn't wireless, cabling to the router is simplest. Some printers have Ethernet ports. In such cases, simply run an Ethernet cable from the printer. Also, some routers will accept a USB cable. Again, cable the printer to the router.

A print server is also easy to use. These are small machines that cost as little as $20. Run a USB cable from the printer to the print server. Then run an Ethernet cable between the print server and router.

In either case, already networked computers should see the printer automatically. That's true of the wireless method, too.

How do you network a printer? Let me walk you through it.

180. Windows 7
Q. I've been hearing a lot about Windows 7 lately. All I know is it will replace Vista. I've heard nothing about new features. What can you tell me about it? Will I want to upgrade?

A. Will you want to upgrade to Windows 7? I can't answer that question, Chris. But I can give you some information on Windows 7. And you can decide for yourself.

It's no secret that many avoided Microsoft's much-maligned Vista. Businesses in particular did not want to upgrade to Vista. Vista requires much more powerful machines than XP. Microsoft heard this complaint.

In truth, Windows 7 requirements are about the same as Vista's. It requires a 1GHz processor, 1 gigabyte of RAM and a DirectX 9 memory card with 128MB of memory.

But Windows 7 manages these resources better. Early testers found it runs well even with minimum equipment. And it can be installed on low-power netbooks.

You could encounter compatibility problems with older software and hardware. Windows 7 is based on Vista's code.

Windows 7 will include an XP Mode. This should eliminate most compatibility problems. But XP Mode is only supported by certain chips. They must use Intel's Virtualization Technology.

Windows 7 improves boot times and performs better on multi-core processors. New tools help you fine-tune on-screen type and calibrate your monitor. And User Account Control can be tweaked to be less intrusive.

Most changes improve the way you interact with the computer. Touch screen support is improved, as is handwriting and speech recognition. For example, Microsoft has added multitouch. This allows iPhone-like interaction.

One of the most obvious changes is to the taskbar. Program buttons can be rearranged. Jump lists provide quick access to frequently used files.

Among other nice changes are libraries and HomeGroup. Libraries group specific file types, no matter their location.

HomeGroup makes file and printer sharing easier. When you join a home network, simply enter the password and select the locations to share. You can even access a user's files if the user is not logged on.

Surprisingly, Microsoft has removed some features from Windows 7. For example, Windows Move Maker and Windows Mail are gone.

Instead, Microsoft will direct users to Windows Live. The Windows Live Essentials download replaces the missing software.

Microsoft has a good reason for unbundling the programs from Windows. It can update the programs more frequently.

Microsoft is planning six versions of Windows 7. Microsoft says consumers only need worry about two versions: Home Premium and Professional.

The Windows 7 release date has not been set. But it should be available by year's end. Also, Microsoft will reportedly launch an upgrade program. You can get a free upgrade to Windows 7. This applies to machines with Vista Home Premium, Business or Ultimate preinstalled.

The new features in Windows 7 may not be compelling to you. But it may be time to upgrade your old computer. Once Windows 7 debuts, new computers will have it.

It's been nearly eight years since Windows XP was released. At this date, many of those machines are approaching old age. If you're holding out, go ahead and buy a Vista computer. Be sure your version is upgradeable, if you want Windows 7. Vista's bad reputation is undeserved. We've used it since January 2007, with no problems.

Have more questions about Windows? Head over to my site:

• Tweaking Vista's User Account Control feature

• Running XP as a virtual machine in Vista

• Moving data to a new PC the easy way

179. Slow Wireless Hotspots
Q. I travel frequently for work, so I connect a lot from hotspots. Unfortunately, I often get a slow connection. Is there any way to speed up my computer at wireless hotspots? I don't want to buy a new computer.

A. Hotspots provide an easy way to connect to the Internet. But they can seem incredibly slow at times. That's particularly true if you're accustomed to a wired connection.

You can improve your connection, though. And you don't need a new computer. You just need to tweak your machine.

Settings in your Web browser are probably slowing you down. And you'll want to check for Windows problems.

Let's start with the browser. There are several things you can do to speed it up. Unfortunately, most will limit your surfing experience. You're sacrificing surfing pleasure for speed.

You can block content and add-ons that slow you down. This includes images, JavaScript and Flash.

Let's start with Internet Explorer. Click Tools>>Internet Options and open the Advanced tab. In the Multimedia section, you can uncheck several options. They include "Play animations in webpages," "Play sounds in webpages" and "Show pictures."

Next, open the Security tab and select Custom level. Find the Scripting section. For "Active scripting," select Disable or Prompt. For "Scripting of Java applets," select Disable or Prompt. Click OK.

Open the Programs tab and click Manage add-ons. In the window that opens, you'll see a list of add-ons. To disable one, select it and click Disable at the bottom of the window. Click OK. Then, click Apply and OK. Hint: To disable Flash, select Shockwave Flash Object and click Disable.

In Firefox, click Tools>>Options and open the Main tab. Click Manage Add-ons. In the Extensions section, you can disable extensions you've added to Firefox. Just select one and click Disable.

The Plugins section lets you disable other Firefox additions. To disable Flash, select Shockwave Flash and click Disable. Close the window and click OK.

There is one more thing in Firefox: prefetching. This helps Firefox automatically download content from certain pages. You can learn more about prefetching in my informative tip. It also provides instructions on disabling it.

These changes will go a long way to speeding up your connection. But, wait, there's more!

Try to do less on a slow connection. Use the connection for light tasks like checking e-mail. Try to do all of the intensive tasks from a better connection. You could do them before you leave on a trip. Or, maybe a co-worker can help you with some tasks from the road.

You might also consider a cellular laptop card. You'll pay about $60 a month for service. And cellular connections are often slower than Wi-Fi. But you'll be able to connect wherever you have cellular service.

It is also a good idea to try different hotspots. Some will be faster than others. In fact, there could be a faster one right around the corner. I have a handy download that will help you find hotspots.

Finally, IE and Firefox are the two most popular browsers. But they're not the fastest. Google's Chrome has received good marks for its speed. You can download this great, free browser from my site!

You might also try the free Opera Web browser.

A. There's nothing easier. But I have found that passwords are pretty handy. I'll get into that in a moment.

To remove your password, click Start>>Control Panel. Double-click User Accounts. Under "Make changes to your user account," click "Remove your password." Enter the password in the box. Click Remove. Close the Control Panel window.

This is also easily done in Windows XP. Click Start>>Control Panel. Double-click User Accounts. Double-click your account. Click "Remove my password." Enter your password in the box. Click Remove Password. Close the open windows.

However, you might eventually find that you need a password. For instance, say you use Windows encryption to safeguard a folder. After encryption, the file still opens automatically after the sign-on to Windows. But its key is linked to your password. Others can't sign on and see the folder.

You'll also need your own password if you have a Guest account. Such an account is really handy when you have company. Guests might well want to use your computer. People using the Guest account can't download anything or see your files. The Guest account never takes a password.

Setting up a password is as easy as removing it. In Vista, click Start>>Control Panel. Double-click User Accounts. Click "Create a password for your account." Enter your new password twice. Enter a hint, if you like. Click "Create password."

In Windows XP, click Start>>Control Panel. Double-click User Accounts. Click "Create a password." Enter your password and click Remove Password. Enter the password twice, along with a hint if you like. Click Create Password.

Passwords are also easily changed.

Here are other tips from my site that you will find interesting:

• Breaking a BIOS password

• Help with a lost Windows password

• Password memorizer

177. Using hibernation to save power
Q. I work at a local public school. The state just informed us that our budget will be slashed. I’m looking to save money on our electricity usage. I’d like to have our computers hibernate when not in use. But there’s a problem. The teachers have to log in every time they come out of hibernation. This takes too much time. I’d like them to stay logged in and connected to the network. Is there any way to do this?

A. Reducing your school’s electricity bill is a great idea. And using hibernation is a good way to do it. Plus, anyone can use this to save power at home.

Hibernating a computer saves its current state to the hard drive. And then the computer is shut down. When the computer is booted, it returns to the saved state. Programs are still running. All the windows are in the same place.

Hibernation is nearly identical to sleep (or standby in XP). If you’re curious, read about the difference in this tip. Vista also includes a hybrid version of sleep.

You might want to use the hybrid sleep setting. So, I’ll tell you how to access it below. But, since you’re particularly interested in hibernation, let’s start there.

Hibernation is a convenient way to save power without restarting from scratch. But you can run into problems with incorrect settings.

You want teachers to go in and out of hibernation without hassle. That means they shouldn’t have to log in each time. This is possible. You just have to know what settings to change.

Setting up your computer to hibernate is simple on any system. The best option is to tie hibernation to the power button. The users push the power button when they’re done. Then, the computer will hibernate. When the users want to restart, they again push the power button. The computer comes alive, with all windows in place. That’s easy enough for anyone.

Correct settings
So, let's get started. In Windows Vista, click Start>>Control Panel. Click Classic View on the left side of the window. Double-click Power Options. Locate your selected plan under "Preferred plans." Under the selected plan, click "Change plan settings." Click "Change advanced power settings."

Click the "+" sign next to "Power buttons and lid." Click the "+" sign next to "Power button action." Click Setting and choose Hibernate.

Next, click the "+" sign next to "Additional settings." Click the "+" sign next to "Require a password on wakeup." Click Setting and choose No. Click Apply>>OK. Now, the computer will stay logged in when starting from hibernation.

In Windows XP, click Start>>Control Panel. Double-click Power Options. Select the Advanced tab. Select Hibernate from the drop-down menu labeled "When I press the power button on my computer." Uncheck the box labeled "Prompt for password when computer resumes from standby." Click Apply>>OK.

Macs show only sleep as an option. But it is really a hybrid. It saves to RAM and also the hard drive. That way, if the computer loses power, your files are safe on the hard drive. Click the Apple logo at the top of the screen. Select System Preferences. Click Energy Saver. Select the Options tab. Check the "Allow power button to sleep the computer" box.

Vista, too
Click the back arrow at the top of the window. Select Security. Click the General tab. Uncheck the box labeled "Require password to wake this computer from sleep or screen saver." Close the window. The changes are saved automatically.

Vista also has a sleep-hibernate combination, called hybrid sleep. The computer’s state is stored to the computer’s RAM and hard drive. This gives you the best of both worlds. Once turned on, hybrid sleep will take over automatically. Hit the button to put it to sleep. When you're ready, hit the button again and everything is there.

To turn hybrid sleep on, click Start>>Control Panel. Then click Classic View on the left side. Double-click Power Options. Locate your selected plan under "Preferred plans." Under the selected plan, click "Change plan settings." Click "Change advanced power settings." Click the "+" next to Sleep. Then, click the "+" next to "Allow hybrid Sleep." Click OK.

176. Changing your file associations
Q. I just bought a new computer with Windows Vista. No complaints, except for opening e-mail attachments. I get the following message: "This file does not have a program associated with it for performing this action. Create an association in the Set Associations Control panel." I can't find this panel! Also, for some reason, my pictures open in Microsoft Word. Any help with these problems?

A. Both of these problems are easy to fix. Your two problems are actually one in the same. Your file associations are all mixed up.

Windows uses file associations to tie file types to specific programs. Each file type needs an association. So, when you double-click a file, it opens in the correct program. These various associations are often set up automatically. But they can be changed.

Your file associations were either set up wrong or changed. As your error message said, you can fix this. There is a file association control panel in Vista. But it can be hard to find. Don't worry. There's an easier way.

First, find the file you want to open. Choose one of the pictures you're having trouble with. Or save one of those e-mail attachments to the desktop. Right-click the file. Select Open With>>Choose Default Program. You'll see a list of programs. Select the program you want to use. Or hit Browse to add a program to the list. Be sure to check the box labeled "Always use the selected program to open this kind of file." Click OK.

Windows XP
The process is almost the same in Windows XP. Right-click the file and select Open With. You can select a suggested program. Or, click Browse to find the program you want. Select "Always use the selected program to open this kind of file" and click OK.

You may already know what program to use for your files. You may have installed a program for that purpose. If not, I can help.

Let's start with your pictures, which seem to like Microsoft Word. Both Windows XP and Vista have a built-in photo-viewing program. In Vista, use Windows Photo Gallery. In XP, use Windows Picture and Fax Viewer.

What about other files?

• If they're office documents, use the proper Microsoft Office program. Or use the free OpenOffice.org.

• If they're PDF files, use Adobe Reader. Or try Foxit Reader or Sumatra.

• Maybe someone is sending you Flash video files. These can be difficult to open. Try the VLC Media Player or Riva FLV Player. Both are free.

Doing it the hard way
If you prefer, you can use the Set Associations window. Vista does a good job of hiding it. To find it, click Start>>Control Panel. In the left of the Control Panel window, select Classic View.

Double-click Default Programs. In the next window, click "Associate a file type or protocol with a program." That will take you to the Set Associations window.

To change an association, find the correct extension in the left column. Click it, then click "Change program…" When you finish, click Close.

That strikes me as the hard way to fix an association. But some people like to burrow into Windows.

175. Hibernate vs. Sleep: What's the difference?
Q. Hibernate and Sleep seem mighty similar. Is there a notable difference? A friend suggested that prolonged use of Hibernate can damage a PC. Is that true?

A. Hibernate and Sleep (called Standby in XP) are both power-saving features. You'll find them on both PCs and Macs in some form. I'm not surprised they have you confused. They appear to do the same thing.

When you shut down your computer, you turn everything off. All of your applications, windows and documents have to be closed. Starting up your computer again can take some time. And then you have to reopen everything you want to use.

To save time, you can use Hibernate or Sleep. Both of these save the exact state of your computer. You don't have to close anything. All your windows, programs and documents are stored as-is.

When you start up the computer, everything is restored. All your windows are just as you left them. They're even in the same place on your desktop. And you can pick up right where you left off.

They both still seem the same, don't they? But each offers a different level of power saving and convenience.

Sleep
When using Sleep, your computer's state is stored in RAM. The display is turned off. Your hard drive is stopped. And other components are shut down. But a minimal amount of power is still applied to the RAM. This allows the RAM to hold on to your computer's state.

So, your computer isn't completely off. Starting the computer from Sleep is almost instantaneous. That's really convenient. You can jump right back into what you were doing.

The downside of Sleep is that it still requires some power. If you lose power for any reason, the RAM is wiped. You'll lose your computer's stored state. That could also mean losing any work you haven't saved.

Hibernate
When using Hibernate, your computer's state is stored on the hard drive. Your hard drive doesn't require power to hold on to that information. So, your computer can turn off power to everything.

Starting from Hibernate has the same result as from Sleep. Your computer is restored to exactly where it was before. But coming out of hibernation takes longer. So, it's less convenient.

But you don't have to worry about losing power. Even if power is cut, the computer's state is still stored. Nothing will be lost.

Coming up: Hybrid Sleep, Safe Sleep. Click here to finish this tip!

174. Recovering a Windows profile
Q. Yesterday, my wife logged on to the computer. Her entire profile was lost. Her photos, Word documents and Outlook e-mail are all gone. It's like she never existed. There are four other accounts on our computer, which runs XP. The other profiles are all fine. Can you help?

A. It must be worrying to turn on the computer and find everything gone. This is why I always stress data backups.

In your case, though, things aren't as bad as they appear. Your wife's account or profile was somehow damaged. She may lose some of her settings. However, her data should still be there.

Before we start, let's clarify accounts and profiles. The account is what you use to log on to the computer. An account will have a profile associated with it. The profile contains a user's preferences and settings.

So, let's fix this problem! Log on to the computer with an administrator account—other than your wife's. Once you're logged on, you can find your wife's data.

List of folders
Open Windows Explorer and navigate to C:\Documents and Settings. You'll see a list of folders that correspond to the computer accounts.

Find your wife's account folder. Double-click to open the folder. Among the subfolders, her Documents folder is probably most important. So, you'll want to copy the entire contents of it. You can use an external hard drive or removable media.

Now, there will also be data hidden in other locations. For example, you'll need to dig up her Outlook PST file. This should be located in the Local Settings\Application Data\Microsoft\Outlook folder. Again, copy the file to removable media.

After you back up the data, you can try to recover the profile.

The first thing to try is System Restore. This returns the system to an earlier point in time. It only affects programs and settings—not user data.

Changes could be lost
There's a pretty good chance that System Restore will recover the account. But remember, running System Restore will affect all accounts on the machine. Recent changes made to other accounts could be lost.

To run System Restore, click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>System Tools>>System Restore. Click Next. Then, select a restore point. Use the last one created before the profile was damaged. Click Next. Click Next again.

System Restore may take several minutes. When it finishes, the system will restart. Your wife should try to log on to her account. Hopefully, her settings will all be restored.

If it doesn't work, there are other things to try. But first, undo the System Restore. Open System Restore again. On the opening screen, you should see an option to undo the last restoration. Select it, click Next and follow the instructions.

The next option is to create a new user account. You can then try to copy the profile information to it.

Create an administrator account
In an administrator account, click Start>>Control Panel. Double-click User Accounts and click Create A New Account. Name the account and click Next. Make sure the name is different from her original account. Opt to create an administrator account and click Create Account.

Close any open windows. Click Start>>Log Off. Click Log Off in the dialog box that opens.

On the Welcome Screen, select the name of the account you just created. When you log on, Windows will create a profile for the account. When you get into Windows, log off again.

Log in to Windows with the original administrator account again. Click Start and then right-click My Computer and select Properties. Open the advanced tab. Click the Settings button under User Profiles.

In the User Profiles dialog box, find the profile from your wife's original account. Select it and click Copy To. In the box that opens, click Browse. Navigate to the folder for the new account. It's located in the C:\Documents and Settings folder.

After you select the account folder, click OK. Click Yes to confirm you want to copy the profile. Close the open windows and log off the computer. Log on to the new account. Hopefully this will recover the profile.

173. Vista's User Account Control (UAC)
Q. I just bought a computer with Windows Vista. It seems that Vista is plagued by dialog boxes. I get one every time I start the machine. It asks if I want to run the software for my Wi-Fi adapter. I also get them when I try to install software or run certain programs. Do I have to put up with this? Or can I disable this annoyance?

A. Ah, yes—Windows User Account Control (UAC). This is one of the new security enhancements in Windows Vista.

Most of us appreciate tools that make our computers more secure. However, UAC has many foes. That's because it can be a real nuisance.

In Windows XP, you sign on with an administrator, limited or guest account. Only administrator accounts can install software. But suppose you opened some attachment while working as an administrator? With your administrator privileges, something bad could be installed.

Things are different in Vista. You may log on with an administrator account. You still have full control over the computer.

However, privileges are lowered when it comes to installing software. Same goes for running unauthorized software. (Unfortunately, Vista often doesn't recognize some legitimate software as authorized.)

The intention is to stop criminals gaining control of your machine. Should software attempt to install, you'll be prompted to allow it.

In theory, User Account Control is a great feature. However, the dialog boxes quickly become tiresome. I'll bet some people become so desensitized that they permit the software out of rote habit!

Fortunately, there are ways to get around User Account Control. Vista will allow you to disable UAC. You can do this before you install software on your machine.

To turn off UAC, click Start>>Control Panel. Double-click User Accounts. Click “Turn User Account Control on or off.”

Ironically, you'll get a UAC dialog box asking if you want to open the UAC options. Click Allow. Then, deselect “Use User Account Control (UAC) to help protect your computer.” Click OK. You'll need to restart your machine. You must do this every time you change UAC settings.

Of course, you could leave UAC off permanently. This will remove one of the layers of protection you have in Vista. But many people find this more acceptable than the endless alerts.

If you decide to turn off UAC, you are taking a risk. So think carefully before disabling it permanently. Of course, you want to make doubly sure that you have all the security software you need. I have everything you need at my Security Center.

Now, there is a third solution. I recommend it for most users who are annoyed by UAC. You can install TweakUAC. This free program puts UAC in quiet mode.

UAC will still run with TweakUAC. You won't see any of the annoying UAC warning boxes. Also, you can turn quiet mode on or off without having to restart your machine.

So, you could put UAC in quiet mode when you're installing software or working offline. Then, turn off quiet mode when you go online. It's the best of both worlds! I have a download link for TweakUAC on my site.

Since you're new to Vista, you'll want to brush up on some of the new features Vista offers. My tips will get you started:

     • Media Center and Vista
     • ReadyBoost enhances system memory
     • Understanding Shadow Copy

172. Television's fat people
I have televisions that make everyone look fatter. I really don't want that. What causes that?

This could be caused by our growing epidemic of obesity. But I'm betting that you are using a widescreen television.

Widescreens, which are prevalent today, have a 16:9 ratio. They are 16 inches wide for every nine inches high. Old-style televisions are 4:3—four inches wide for every three inches in height.

Broadcasts in one do not fit well in the other. It sounds like you are watching 4:3 broadcasts on a widescreen television.

There are three ways to handle this situation. You can display shows in 4:3 on your widescreen. That means you would have wide black bars on each side. That could be a problem on older plasma televisions. The 4:3 picture frame could be burned into the screen. That is much less of a problem with today's plasmas. And it is not a problem with LCD sets.

You also can expand the picture to fill the black bars. When you spread the picture horizontally, the people on-screen are distorted. Thus, they look fatter. That sounds like your situation.

The third way to handle this is with a zoom. I use the lowest zoom setting on my television. Zoom spreads the picture vertically and horizontally. That avoids distortion. But the 4:3 picture won't fit perfectly. So, the zoom slices off the top and bottom of the picture. People sometimes get severe haircuts. But the zoom usually works well.

However, that vertical trim is a problem with sports events. Important information often is displayed at the top and bottom of the picture. Fortunately, that usually isn't an issue today. Many sports events are broadcast in both 16:9 and 4:3.

More and more programming is being shot in high definition. That typically fits a 16:9 screen. Some old programming, originally shot in 4:3, is remastered in 16:9. That usually works well, although screen items are occasionally out of proportion.

If you don't like distorted people, try your TV's zoom. Your manual should explain your choices. Some televisions spread parts of the picture, leaving other parts untouched. Try that, too, if your TV offers it.

Also, be sure you're watching high-definition channels. In Phoenix, we are offered both high-definition and standard TV. Most of the high definition shows are broadcast in 16:9. So, you won't usually have to worry about 4:3 pictures.

I hope this has been helpful. I have lots more information about televisions. For instance, would you like to use yours as a computer monitor? Check out my tip. Being able to record programs when you're not around is nice, too. You can do that with a personal video recorder. You don't have to buy one; a computer can suffice.

Here is more on digital TV:

     • Watching video on your television
     • Gearing up for the digital television transition
     • Watch TV from anywhere

171.Picking a microprocessor
It's time to move up from my old Intel Pentium 4, 3GHz system. Where can I learn about what's out there? Dual Core? Dual Quad? I need a simple explanation about these processors.

A lot has happened since your microprocessor was introduced. The 3GHz Pentium 4 goes back about five years. That qualifies as an eon in computers.

For most people, that old Pentium 4 would still be adequate. Today's cutting edge chips are running far in front of consumer software. So, unless you're editing lots of video or playing the most demanding games, you don't need to worry about the chip.

Today's chips are more advanced than your Pentium. As you point out, they have multiple cores. They are also 64-bit chips, while yours is 32-bit. The architecture of these things is just brilliant. But most of it is going unused.

Let's start with the cores, since you mentioned them. Each core is its own little processor. Both Intel and AMD are producing multi-core chips. The most advanced Intel chips have four cores.

AMD had the chip lead at one time. But it struggled with its quad core chips. It did finally get them out, well after Intel.

Quad-core chips work well on servers. But they are overkill in the consumer space. A quad core gives you one thing—bragging rights.

Windows is capable of running on multiple cores. So it can take advantage of these advances. But few consumer programs use more than one core. In fact, porting consumer programs to multiple cores is a huge concern.

The same type of thing applies to 64-bit chips. This number refers to the amount of data a core can crunch at once. AMD and Intel chips now are 64-bit. That's pretty meaningless, though. Practically everything else is 32-bit.

True, you can get a 64-bit version of Windows Vista. But I don't recommend that. You would probably discover that drivers are hard to find. That would mean that certain peripherals couldn't be used.

You could probably get by with Intel's Celeron, or AMD's Sempron. Both are budget microprocessors. But you can't be sure of what the future will bring. So I would go with an Intel Core 2 Duo or AMD Athlon X2. If future programs use dual-core technology, you'll be ready.

You might see high-end computers with Intel Extreme or AMD Phenom chips. Those are very powerful. They should work well in gaming and video-editing situations. Otherwise, you can't use the power.

I assume you'll be buying Windows Vista. You will see one of four versions. I have a chart that explains them. There is a fifth version—Enterprise. You won't see that in stores.

Vista is more capable than its predecessor, XP. Consequently, its video requirements are pretty stiff. Get a minimum of 128 megabytes of video RAM. Go for 256MB, if you have room in your budget.

I prefer a separate video card. But integrated graphics will also work. I have a tip that explains this further.

Don't overload your system with random access memory. I recommend 2 gigabytes. If you need more, go up to 3GB. Over that, and you're probably just throwing your money away.

170.Interlaced video and still shots
Q. I breed, show, train and sell horses for dressage and show jumping. Good videos are important for my marketing, and I often take still captures from the videos. I have a Mini DV camcorder. Stills captured from the interlaced video are not good. I've even used software to enhance them. Would stills captured from an HD camcorder be any better?

A. Before I answer your question, let me explain interlaced video. Video generally plays at a rate of 30 frames per second.

But interlaced video breaks each frame into two fields. One field covers the odd-numbered lines of the frame. The other holds the even-numbered lines. When played back, the two fields give the impression of a single frame. So, there are 60 fields in each second of interlaced video.

In comparison, progressive video captures the entire scene on a single frame. So one second of a progressive video is 30 frames.

Because of the way interlaced video works, good stills are difficult. You'll see lines and jagged edges.

To make matters worse, camcorders require less resolution than still cameras. So, any picture taken with a camcorder—or from a video shot with one—will likely be subpar.

Also, camcorders often have smaller sensors than still cameras. Sensor size plays an important role in the quality of a photograph.

For example, a 5-megapixel camera with a large sensor may take better photos than a 7-megapixel camera with a small sensor. You'll see less noise in the images.

A high-definition camcorder may improve things. The sensor of a high-definition camcorder is likely to be larger than one in a standard-definition model. In fact, some manufacturers use the same sensors used in digital SLRs. These are bigger than sensors in point-and-shoot cameras.

High-definition camcorders shoot either interlaced or progressive video. You want progressive video. Otherwise, you'll be right back where you started.

Personally, I wouldn't mess around trying to capture stills from videos. After all, this is your business. You want high-quality photos. They will improve your business' image (No pun intended!).

Rather, use a camcorder to take videos of the horses. And yes, a high-definition camcorder will yield better results. But use a quality digital camera to capture the still shots. You'll get much better results. And you won't need to mess around cleaning up the photographs.

I can help you find a high-definition camcorder and a good camera. Check out my buying guides:
     • Buying an HD camcorder
     • Choosing the right digital camera
     • Upgrading to a digital SLR
     • Finding lenses for an SLR

169. Vista Service Pack 1, and more
Q. I've been hearing a lot about Vista's Service Pack 1 lately. It's bringing back unpleasant memories of XP Service Pack 2. That caused me problems with some programs. So I'd like to get your take on the Vista Service Pack. Should I go ahead and install it? Or should I wait a bit?

A. I know what you mean about XP Service Pack 2. I got plenty of questions when it was released!

That said, I generally recommend installing Service Packs. The exception would be if you know you will encounter a conflict. Of course, there is always the possibility of a conflict.

Microsoft issues security patches every month. It also releases Service Packs periodically. The Service Packs contain the monthly security patches. Sometimes Service Packs introduce new features. But they all improve features already present in the operating system.

Vista Service Pack 1 improves the performance and reliability of the operating system. It also adds support for emerging technologies. As for security, it includes previously released fixes, along with new security patches.

Service Pack 1 will also improve compatibility with hardware. Vista is currently compatible with about 40,000 pieces of hardware. Service Pack 1 nearly doubles this. Many people have complained about hardware compatibility problems in Vista. It also improves compatibility with some programs.

Microsoft is pushing the Service Pack out to users via Windows Update. However, it isn't automatically installed on your machine. That's true even if you have it set to install updates automatically.

Vista Service Pack 1 has a feature that will help you avoid conflicts. When you download Service Pack 1 from Windows Update, it can identify problematic drivers. Don't download the Service Pack manually from Microsoft's site. Otherwise, you'll miss the check for problematic drivers.

Drivers are pieces of software that help hardware run. They're a frequent cause of compatibility issues.

If problematic drives are discovered, installation of Service Pack 1 is postponed. You can install it when new drivers or other applicable updates have been installed. This lessens your chance of encountering problems.

You still may experience problems with hardware drivers after installing Service Pack 1. The drivers will work with the Service Pack. However, an error may occur during the installation process. You may need to reinstall some hardware drivers. So keep your discs handy!

There are several things you should do before installing Service Pack 1. First, back up your data. This is important whenever you're making a significant change to your system.

Next, create a System Restore point. If anything goes horrifically wrong, you should be able to revert your machine.

To create a System Restore point, click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>System Tools>>System Restore. Click "open System Protection." On the System Protection tab, click Create. Name the Restore Point and click Create. Click OK. Click Cancel in the System Restore Wizard.

Next, you will want to make sure your machine has the latest drivers installed. Visit your computer manufacturer's site to check for updated drivers. Install any that are necessary. You should do the same for printers and other connected gadgets.

Finally, make sure you have enough free space on your main hard drive. You need at least 4.5 gigabytes. To check, click Start>>Computer. You'll see the used and free space of your hard drive.

When you're ready to install Service Pack 1, click Start>>All Programs>>Windows Update. In the box that opens, click "View available updates." You'll see a list of updates. If there are others besides Service Pack 1, install them first.

Then, select Windows Vista Service Pack 1. Click Install. The download will take awhile. After the prompts, follow the steps to install the Service Update. It will take a considerable amount of time. Your computer will reboot during the process. Make sure you do not turn off your computer until it is complete.

When Vista restarts, you won't see a noticeable difference.

Need more help with Vista? I have all the help you need on my site!

168.Easy ways to add storage . . . and more
Q. I have a computer, and recently received my mother's old one. I take a ton of pictures. Also, I'm a woodworker, so I collect patterns, tips and helpful hints. I desperately need memory space. I would like to connect my computer with my mother's old one. My husband tells me that can't be done. Why can't he connect the two with a cord?

A. When you refer to "memory space," I assume you mean hard drive storage space. Memory is different. It refers to RAM. This is where the computer stores data that it anticipates using. RAM is volatile; it is emptied when the computer is turned off.

Now, you have several options. If you just need more storage, you can accomplish that easily. You wouldn't even need to connect the two computers.

You could add another hard drive to your current computer. I have a tip that includes detailed instructions on installing a hard drive. Just last week, I saw an ad for a terabyte hard drive. It was about $200. A terabyte is approximately 1.1 trillion bytes. That will hold a lot of pictures and patterns!

Installing a hard drive isn't too difficult. But maybe you don't feel like opening up your machine. In that case, you could buy an external hard drive. Or, you could build an external housing for an internal drive. Sound too difficult? My tip will make it easy!

How old is your mom's old computer? If it came with Windows XP, it might be worth keeping. Anything older probably isn't worthwhile. Maintaining an old machine can nickel and dime you to death. I would recycle an old computer.

If her old machine isn't too old, they can be connected. There are several ways to do that. For example, you could use a USB bridge cable. These are sometimes called USB link or network cables. They have a node at the midpoint of the cable. It contains extra circuitry for a safe connection. I've seen them online for less than $10.

If both computers have Ethernet jacks, you can use them to connect the computers. You could use a hub, or a crossover Ethernet cable. Ad-hoc connections can be difficult to set up, though.

Ad-hoc connections also leave little room for expanding your network in the future. Besides, your broadband modem probably connects to your Ethernet jack. You don't want to rearrange cables when you access the second computer.

Of course, the computers may not have Ethernet jacks. Or maybe you just don't want a bunch of cables running through your house. In that case, you could use Wi-Fi.

Again, you can create wireless ad-hoc connections. But I would buy a wireless router and one wireless card. That way, you can set up a full-blown network. Expect to pay about $100 on networking gear. Not sure what to buy? My buying guide will help you decide.

The wireless router would connect to your broadband Internet. Then, you would connect one computer to the router with an Ethernet cable. You'd put the wireless card in the second computer. I have more on connecting two computers on my site.

You also need to set up your network in Windows. That's easy. I have a tip that will walk you through it. You'll also want to set up file and printer sharing. My tip has you covered there, too.

Once your computers are connected, you can share the Internet connection. You can also transfer data over your network.

If you take the wireless route, make sure your network is locked down. Otherwise, intruders could use your network. I have a tip that will help you keep your network safe.

167. Vista virtual machine vs. dual-boot setup
Q. I have a computer that runs Vista Ultimate. However, some programs won't run on Vista; they require Windows XP. I don't want a second computer. I also don't want a dual-boot setup. I've heard that I can install XP as a virtual machine in Vista. Is this true? How does one set up a virtual machine?

A. Vista is an improvement over Windows XP. There are nice new features for you to enjoy. And, security is enhanced in Vista.

However, Vista isn't perfect. Not all software will run in it. And many users have encountered problems using old hardware.

Creating a dual-boot setup is one option. But for many people, creating a virtual machine is much better. You won't have to reboot in order to change operating systems. You can even work in both at the same time.

Before you install a virtual machine, make sure your computer can support it. You must be running Vista Business, Vista Enterprise, Vista Ultimate, XP Professional, or XP Tablet PC. You'll need at least 2 gigabytes of hard drive space.

You also need to consider RAM. You need 256 megabytes minimum for Windows XP. If you plan to run intensive programs in XP, increase that to a gigabyte.

Keep in mind that this is in addition to Vista's requirements. It needs 1GB of RAM minimum.

Next, you must have the correct software. You'll need a copy of Windows XP that you can install. It should be a retail version, not one that came preinstalled on another machine. You also need a copy of Microsoft's Virtual PC. I have a link to this free program on my site.

After you install Virtual PC, you're ready to go. Click Start>>All Programs>>Virtual PC. The New Virtual Machine Wizard should start. If it doesn't, click New to start it. Click Next.

Select "Create a virtual machine" and click Next. Name your virtual machine and select the location for your virtual machine file. Click Next.

In Vista, the default operating system for your virtual machine is XP. But you can select a different operating system, if needed. Click Next.

The wizard will set the RAM for your virtual machine to 128MB by default. But you will probably want to change this. Select Adjusting the RAM and enter the amount of RAM you want to use. It can be adjusted later, if needed. Click Next.

Next, you'll need to set the amount of hard drive space to allocate to your virtual machine. Select "A new virtual hard disk." Click Next.

I recommend setting a maximum amount of hard drive space to use. Let the virtual machine expand automatically until it hits the limit you specified. This is the default option. Click Next.

Specify the size and location for your .VHD file. This is your virtual hard drive. Click Finish.

In the Virtual PC Console window, select the virtual hard drive you created. Click Start. Your virtual machine will be loaded. Now you're ready to install Windows XP on the virtual machine.

Insert your Windows XP disc. Setup should begin automatically. If it doesn't, select CD>>Use Physical Drive. Hit Enter.

Wait for Windows XP to install on the virtual machine. Now you're ready to install some additional tools. In the window showing the virtual machine, click Action>>Install or Update Virtual Machine Additions.

The tools will let you move your mouse freely between the XP window and Vista. And you'll be able to copy files between XP and Vista by dragging and dropping. You can also share the Clipboard and folders between the two operating systems.

166. Vista CDs sometimes incompatible
Q. I sent a friend photographs on a CD. She was unable to view them. She told me she's previously encountered this problem. It happens with CDs that were created in Windows Vista. When I finished the disc, a message popped up. It said something like, "Please wait while Vista formats this disc to be read on all computers." However, my friend told me that I need to select something before I burn the disc. I don't see any options when I create a disc. Help!

A. Things like this annoy me. Computers can read CDs so long as they have a CD or DVD drive. And you're presumably using a common format like JPEG. Ergo, you shouldn't have trouble exchanging CDs between machines.

In reality, Microsoft has thrown you a curve. Vista introduced a new format for writing discs—Live File System. Those CDs aren't necessarily compatible with all computers.

CDs created by Windows XP use the Mastered format. That format requires you to finalize the disc after it is burned. So, it must be completed in one session. Rewritable discs can be written to again, but must be erased first.

By default, Vista uses the Live File System. With this format, you can write files to the CD whenever you want. You can also erase files whenever you want (provided you're using a rewritable CD). A rewritable CD can be used like a floppy disc or USB drive.

When I make a disc for Vista, I just use Live File System. But when the disc will be used on other machines, I use the Mastered format. You shouldn't run into too many problems with this format.

To select the Mastered format, insert a blank CD in your computer. Click "Burn files to disc" in the box that opens. Enter a name for the disc and click "Show formatting options." Select Mastered and click Next. Your CD will be formatted. You can then add files and finalize the disc. Now, that isn't too complicated—once you know where to look!

Before we go on, let me remind you about the links. When something is underlined in our newsletters, click it. It's a link for you to learn more.

You don't have to use Windows' burning programs. There are many other programs available. I have links to three on my site—BurnAware, CDBurnerXP and DeepBurner.

There is a solution that will eliminate CD-burning problems. Ditch discs and find a different way to share photos!

Photo-sharing sites are the easiest way. My tip will help you select a site. Make sure you know what rights you may be surrendering first.

You might like Picasa Web albums. It works seamlessly with Google's free Picasa photo-management program. Again, Picasa is free. You can download it from my site.

You could also use a program like FolderShare. You share the photos directly from your computer. It really works! FolderShare is free. I have a download link on my site.

Or, you could use a site where you upload files for others to download. Here are two free sites for you to try:
• MailBigFile
• YouSendIt

165. Worrying about a full hard drive
Q. I have an HP Media Center computer. It has three hard drives. The C: drive has 214 gigabytes free. The D: drive is 7.2 GB with only 602 megabytes free. The E: drive has 293 GB free. Should I be concerned about the limited space on the D: drive? If so, how do I free up space? When I access the D: drive, it displays a warning. It says this is the recovery partition and instructs me not to make changes.

A. This is a really good question. Many people wonder the same thing. Let me explain what is going on. I think it will put your mind at rest.

For starters, you have two physical hard drives in your computer, not three. First, there is the main drive. It has been divided into two partitions so even though it is one physical drive, you actually see two drives: the C: drive and the D: drive. Each appear as separate drives in (My) Computer.

Then there is the secondary drive. The E: drive is presumably where you store data and your backups.

The C: drive should contain your operating system and programs. The D: drive contains your computer's recovery files.

About the recovery goodies
Many computer manufacturers have done away with recovery discs for new computers. Instead, they partition the main hard drive. Recovery files for Windows and preinstalled applications go on a second, smaller partition.

The recovery partition makes it easy to restore Windows and programs. HP should include a program to help you use the recovery partition. Of course, you don't need any recovery discs.

Now, it doesn't matter that the recovery partition is almost full. You won't be adding anything to it. So, you don't need to worry about the contents outgrowing the partition.

In fact, manufacturers make the partitions as small as possible. That way, you have more room to store your data on the computer. So you could forget about the recovery partition until you need to use it.

However, there is one thing you should do sooner rather than later. Make recovery discs from the partition. Your manual should include instructions on doing this. You'll use the recovery program to make the recovery discs.

Why would you want to make discs? Well, the entire drive could fail. That means you'd need to install a new drive in your computer. To put Windows and the preinstalled applications back on the computer, you'd need the recovery discs. You can't use the recovery data on the failed drive.

It will take about 10 CDs to back up the recovery partition. Keep them in a safe place. You may want to make copies of them periodically. CDs deteriorate over time. I have written about that on my site. So, if you want to learn more, click here.

If you really want, you could then delete the data in the recovery partition. However, the partition will remain on your hard drive. You could use it to store data. But such a small partition would probably be a hassle.

Changing partitions
There is a way to change the partitions on a hard drive. Vista has built-in tools that will help you with this. Click Start>>Control Panel. Double-click Administrative Tools and then Computer Management.

Click Disk Management. At the bottom of the window, you'll see your physical drives. You'll also see the partitions on each. To delete a partition, right-click it and select Delete Volume. Then, right-click the other partition and select Extend Volume. Extend it to use the space recovered from the deleted partition. You'll get a dialog box that will help you with this.

If you're using Windows XP, you can reformat the drive and reinstall Windows. Or, you'll need to purchase a program to change the partitions. This will be a headache. My tip covers all the gory details. Click here to read it.

Personally, I would leave the recovery partition on the machine. You have plenty of room on the C: drive. The extra eight gigabytes of storage isn't going to matter that much at this point. And it's nice to know that you can restore your computer at any time. You won't need to search for your recovery discs.

Hopefully, you'll never need to restore your computer. But if you need to use your recovery partition, I have a tip on my site that will make it a snap.

Now, when those massive hard drives start getting full, you'll want to do some cleaning up.
     • A free program that is a better uninstaller than the one built into Windows
     • I have a tip that will help you remove unnecessary junk from your PC.
     • You can also compress files to save room.

164. Vista handwriting and speech recognition
Q. My hands hurt after a long day of pounding the keyboard. I'd like to enter data without using the keyboard. A friend told me that Vista includes a handwriting recognition feature. I haven't been able to find it. Does it exist? If so, how do I use it?

Yes, Vista does include a handwriting recognition tool. But that isn't your only option. Have you tried speech recognition? It is also included in Vista.

Speech recognition does have its advantages. First, you probably talk faster than you type or write. And speech recognition won't put any strain on your hands at all. If you want to try Vista's speech recognition, check out my tip.

But, many people are too self-conscious to use speech recognition. Or maybe you just want to be more discreet. Also, handwriting recognition may be more accurate than speech recognition. But that depends on your handwriting!

I assume you aren't using a tablet PC. If you were, the handwriting recognition component would be obvious. So, you'll need one thing to use Vista's handwriting recognition: a graphics tablet. (Theoretically, you can your mouse. But that would be very difficult.)

Graphics tablets include pens that let you input text, drawings and the like. To learn more about graphics tablets, read my buying guide. These things are great for photo editing!

Once you have your tablet, you're ready to get going. Just click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>Tablet PC>>Tablet PC Input Panel. Once open, the panel will float above any open window.

There are three buttons at the top left of the input panel. One lets you write. The second lets you print letters. And the third opens a keyboard panel. Click the first button. Then, begin writing on the line in the yellow box.

As you write, you'll notice that Windows places boxes under your words. This shows you how Windows is reading your writing. If you notice a mistake, click a word. A panel opens that will let you correct the word letter by letter. Also, suggested words are listed. Just click on a suggested word to replace the incorrect one.

Depending on your settings, the text may not be inserted in your document or program automatically. In that case, hit the Insert button or press Enter when you've entered your text.

Vista's handwriting recognition feature is surprisingly accurate, at least with my handwriting. But, you may encounter problems. In that case, you'll need to do a little extra work.

You can personalize the handwriting recognition feature so it better recognizes your writing. To do this, click Tools>>Personalize Handwriting Recognition. A wizard will open that will help you correct problems. You can target errors with specific characters. Or, you can provide an extensive sample of your writing.

If you want to customize the way the handwriting recognition panel works, you can. Just click Tools>>Options. You'll find a plethora of options. For example, you can customize where the panel docks. Or, you can have text automatically inserted in your document.

When you want to close the handwriting panel, simply click Tools>>Exit. If you use window controls, it will just be minimized.

If your hands regularly hurt from typing, this could be the start of repetitive stress injury. You do not want this! In addition to looking for alternative input methods, take regular breaks. I have a freebie that will remind you to do this.

163. Hard drive or flash drive camcorder?
Q. I’m in the market for a digital camcorder. Canon has new camcorders coming out. One has a 16-gigabyte flash drive. Which do you think is better—a hard drive or a flash drive?

A. Camcorders have certainly come a long way. Just the other day, I was watching a video of myself at a family birthday party. I was 5. I think the video camera jumped around more than I did.

Today’s hard drive camcorders have benefits. For starters, there’s usually more than ample storage for videos and pictures. Most models are over 30GB.

To put this in perspective, you’ll be able to record around nine hours at high quality mode. You can usually get around 25 hours by recording at a lower quality. Plus, it’s relatively easy to get video onto your computer. You simply connect the camcorder to your computer via USB or Firewire.

But hard drives are relatively delicate. One good drop could break the hard drive. If you’re like me, delicate doesn’t always describe us.

Flash memory also transfers video to your computer easily. It is much more compact than a hard drive. That means camcorders can be smaller. Plus, flash memory uses less power.

Flash memory is more durable than other types of storage. There are no moving parts to wear out. Bumps and jolts are not likely to break the memory. So, it is ideal for portable gadgets.

There is one big drawback to flash memory: its cost. You’ll pay a premium for flash memory. That’s particularly true when the memory is built into a gadget.

I picked two Canon models as examples of what memory will cost. Both are high-definition camcorders. That’s the only way to go now.

The Vixia HF10 has 16 GB of internal flash memory. It will sell for $1,100. In comparison, the HF100 only takes SD or SDHC (Secure Digital High Capacity) cards. Its other features are very similar. It will sell for $900.

Personally, I wouldn’t spend the extra $200 for the internal memory. Rather, I’d simply buy a large memory card and the less expensive model. This is a much cheaper route.

I’ve seen 16 GB memory cards for about $60. Or, you could buy several smaller cards. You’ll save a little money.

There are other benefits as well. You can use the memory cards in other gadgets. Also, the memory cards can be swapped easily.

With the HF10, you can record about two hours in high-definition. If you’re travelling, you’ll use this memory up quickly. You’ll probably end up purchasing a memory card to use anyway.

With the HF100, you can have a few memory cards on hand. When you need more storage, simply pop a new one in.

It is worth noting that not all SD/SDHC cards will work in these camcorders. You must use a Class 4 or higher memory card for high definition. Class 4 refers to the speed of the memory card. Class 4 has a minimum write speed of 4MB/s. Find out what you need to know about memory card speeds in my buying guide.

Before you purchase your camcorder, check the buying guides on my site. You’ll get the advice you need to find the perfect camcorder.
• Buy the right HD camcorder
• What to look for in a digital camcorder

Once you get a camcorder, you’ll want to edit your videos. I have many free programs that will help you work with your video.

162. Digital television and converter boxes
Q. You said that you don’t necessarily need an analog-to-digital converter box for digital television. Certain VCRs and DVD recorders could be used in place of a converter box. Can you give me a list of models and brands that I can use? It would save me buying one extra gadget.

A. I’ve been getting a lot of questions about the digital television transition lately. That’s not a bad thing. Many people are not aware of the transition!

I’m not going to go into the details of the transition here. You can find everything you need to know by reading my column. It’s free for the taking on my site.

Now, I can understand why you don’t want to buy a converter box. It costs money, even with a $40 coupon from the government. In case you need a coupon for your older television, click here. And it is another piece of gear cluttering your family room.

Now, you bring up an interesting point. You can use a VCR or DVD recorder in place of a converter box. However, you need to have the right kind of VCR or DVD recorder. There’s always a catch!

I could try to list all the models that would work in place of a converter box. But I’m not familiar with every model on the market! Besides, that would bore too many people.

So, you’ll need to do some research on your own. It’s not hard and won’t take long. The DVD recorder or VCR needs to have an ATSC tuner. Unlike NTSC tuners, ATSCs are capable of picking up digital broadcast signals.

Old VCRs will use analog NTSC tuners. So, if you’re holding onto a VCR from the mid-90s, it isn’t going to help you.

Newer VCRs and DVD recorders should have ATSC tuners. Any model that you buy today will definitely have one. From March 2007, all gadgets with TV tuners were required to be digital.

If you purchased a DVD recorder in recent years, check the manual or the manufacturer’s Web site. It should describe the type of tuner. I assume that you haven’t purchased a VCR recently. But if you have, the same advice applies.

If you use a DVD recorder or VCR, you’ll change the television channels through it. And your antenna will connect to the recorder.

For help picking the right antenna for digital broadcasts, read my tip. Then, find out how to position the antenna correctly.

I have a slew of other television tips on Komando.com. Here is a quick list of some popular ones:
     • Explore your options when getting HDTV programming
      • Buying an HDTV
      • Using a computer monitor to get HDTV

161. More DVD confusion
Q. Now that Blu-Ray has won the DVD battle, what becomes of the HD DVDs we own? Will the Blu-ray players play them? Will existing DVD players play Blu-ray, but with lower picture quality?

Q. I am putting pictures on a DVD-R for slide shows. I'll play them on TV for guests. (We have three grandkids, so we have a lot of cute pictures, we think.) With Blu-ray, will we have trouble playing these in the future? Will I have to have an old DVD player to play them? Or am I confusing technology?

Q. We just purchased two new Hi-Def TVs with HD DVD players. Can we play Blu-ray DVDs in our HD DVD players?

A. As you probably know, I'm a great optimist. To me, the glass is always half full. Sometimes, it is three-quarters full, even.

So, when the high definition DVD war ended, I was ecstatic. This will bring simplicity to the masses, I thought. Ho, ho, ho! Silly me. Now people are REALLY confused. I should have known better. We ARE talking about DVDs!

Let's recap the recent war. Both Blu-ray Disc and HD DVD are high-definition formats. Sony is the prime backer of Blu-ray; Toshiba was pushing HD DVD. With the proper players, either delivered a lovely picture.

Unfortunately, the two formats are not compatible. So, if you wanted a well-rounded movie collection, you needed a machine for each. Until recently, each ran hundreds of dollars.

In January, Warner Bros. announced it would make movies for Blu-ray only. That was the death knell for HD DVD. Toshiba subsequently decided to phase out that product. Stores are clearing out their stocks of HD DVD players.

So, why would people buy these machines? They are upconverters. You can play regular DVDs on them. You'll get a better picture than is available with a regular player. Of course, you need a high-definition television, too.

You may find HD DVD movies on sale, too. Sources on the Internet say there are nearly 400 HD DVD titles. Some of those are probably also available in Blu-ray.

So, why not just buy a Blu-ray machine? They also upconvert standard DVDs. But you'll probably pay $400 for a Blu-ray player. You might find an HD DVD player for as little as $100.

Blu-ray machines are costly

So, to recap the questions above, Blu-ray will not play HD DVD discs. HD DVD will not play Blu-ray discs. These machines will play Blu-ray and HD DVD discs, respectively. Standard DVD players will play neither.

However, both Blu-ray and HD DVD machines will play standard DVDs. And they are upconverters; standard DVD will look better than it does on a standard player. That is, assuming you have a high-definition television.

I assume the first questioner has an HD DVD machine. Just continue using it to play your HD DVDs. Some day it will wear out. But given the quality of today's electronics, that could be well down the road. Nothing else will play your HD DVD discs.

Slide show should be OK

And the second question: The Blu-ray and HD DVD machines we have looked at play DVD-R and DVD+R. So do most standard DVD machines. So your slide show should play in the future.

And, finally, the third question: Did you buy your players in the last two months? If so, your salesman stuck you. Warner Bros. announced its decision on Jan. 4. It was immediately obvious that HD DVD had lost the war.

Circuit City is accepting returns of HD DVD players. Other stores may be, too. I would take them back. Be very insistent.

You need an HDTV to display high definition DVDs. Check out my buying guide. You have choices in high-definition programming. I addressed that in a column. High definition has spread to the video world, too. High definition camcorders are now affordable. I have a camcorder buying guide. And if you plan to edit videos, don't stint on your computer. You're going to need horsepower.

160. Blu-ray player profiles
I know that Blu-ray has won the high-definition DVD format war. So, I felt that I could finally buy a player with confidence. But then I heard about player profiles. Does that mean there are different kinds of Blu-ray players? What do I need to look for when shopping for a player? Thank you, Kim! I love your show and tell all my friends about it.

Thank you, right back. I love what I do. And I’m glad you love it, too.

I want to make sure you buy the right Blu-ray player. If you don’t know some important facts, you could end up with old gear.

You heard right; the format war is over. HD DVD is dead. Blu-ray Disc is the way to go for high-definition DVDs. But yes, there are different kinds of Blu-ray players.

I know it feels like I just threw you another curve ball. But it may not be as big a deal as you think. The profiles concept isn’t complicated. But it’s important to understand if you’re shopping for a player.

The Blu-ray format is adding new functionality to DVD players. New features will bring interactivity to your movies. But they are rolling out slowly. New Blu-ray profiles add different features. As new profiles emerge, older ones will be phased out.

Here’s what you need to know.

The first Blu-ray players were profile 1.0. This profile was often called the Grace Period Profile. These players simply played Blu-ray movies. They provided HD quality video. But they didn’t include any extra features.

All players manufactured after Nov. 1, 2007, must be profile 1.1. This profile adds picture-in-picture capabilities. Blu-ray movies can show bonus content in a picture-in-picture window. And they can show it while the movie is playing.

Profile 2.0 is coming soon, probably in the fall. It will add Internet connectivity to Blu-ray players. You’ll be able to access movie-related games, blogs and other content. And you’ll be able to interact with this content on your HDTV.

Salespeople may not know a lot about the different profiles. Just know that if the player supports picture-in-picture, it’s profile 1.1. And, in the future, if it has Internet connectivity, it’s profile 2.0.

So, should you go out and buy a profile 1.1 player? Should you wait for profile 2.0 players? There are probably profile 1.0 players still on the shelves. What about those?

I recommend picking up at least a profile 1.1 player. Profile 1.0 players should still play all Blu-ray discs. But format standards and requirements can change. It could become obsolete in the future. Then you’d have to buy a new player.

If Internet connectivity sounds enticing, you might wait for profile 2.0. It’s not available just yet. But several Blu-ray releases already include Web content. It’s a feature that you can expect in future Blu-ray discs.

Another option is to buy a PlayStation 3. The PS3 plays Blu-ray movies. It can already connect to the Internet. And it’s capable of receiving firmware updates online. A PS3 can be upgraded to profile 2.0 when the time comes. Plus, PS3s are priced on par with stand-alone Blu-ray players.

Tips for going HD:
     • Want to make home movies on HD?
     • Don’t get stuck with a dud HDTV
     • Where do you get HD programming?

159. Making System Restore work
Q. What is the purpose of System Restore? I have tried to use it numerous times when something went wrong. I picked a date for System Restore, but it said it could not restore to that date. No matter what date I picked, it said the same thing. How does this work? I am using Windows XP.

A. System Restore is kind of like "isosceles triangle." It sounds vaguely like something you should understand. But, really, who has the time?

Sorry to say, I know little about isosceles triangles. (Actually, they're triangles that have two sides of equal length. I know that only because I double-checked the spelling in the dictionary.) However, I'm up to speed on System Restore. It's actually pretty cool.

System Restore is intended to correct major boo-boos. It restores Windows' system files to an earlier date when Windows was working properly.

Let me give you an example. Let's say you download and install a program from the Web. You reboot. When Windows comes up, it doesn't look right. It doesn't work right, either. This qualifies as a major boo-boo.

Pick a date; almost any date!

So, you go into System Restore. You pick a date there—say, yesterday. You tell Windows to roll back. The system files that have been altered return to their earlier state. Voilà, your computer is steady again.

The date you have picked is called a Restore Point. Windows automatically makes one every 24 hours. It also makes one when you install a program. You could have used that one in my hypothetical example.

System Restore only works on Windows system files. It does not affect your personal files, or program files.

I have used System Restore only once. It worked.

Where do you find it?

System Restore looks different, depending on your version of Windows. But it is accessed the same way in Windows XP and Windows Vista. Click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>System Tools>>System Restore.

In Windows XP, select "Restore my computer to an earlier time." Click Next. You'll see a calendar. Bold dates have a restore point. Click one. Click Next>>Next. Windows will roll back.

In Windows Vista, you can select the recommended restore point, or pick your own. If you choose the latter, you'll get a table of restore points. By default, they go back five days. You can choose to go back about two weeks, if you prefer. Click Next>>Finish to roll Windows back.

So, we haven't tackled your question, have we? Let's do that now.

Keep System Restore working! Click here for the rest of this Tip!

158. WiMAX vs. 802.11g and 802.11n
Q. I’ve heard you talk about 802.11g and 802.11n. But what about WiMAX? Instead of investing in 802.11n routers, shouldn’t we just be upgrading to WiMAX? Or is there a reason why you’re not recommending WiMAX?

A. Well, yes. There’s a very good reason I’m not recommending WiMAX: It isn’t available. There have only been a few trial runs of WiMAX service.

Also, WiMAX and Wi-Fi differ, although many people have confused the two.

Just so we get our terms clear, WiMAX stands for Worldwide Interoperability for Microwave Access. Wi-Fi stands for wireless fidelity.

As I’m sure you’re aware, Wi-Fi lets you connect to other computers and the Internet wirelessly. But to connect to the Internet, you need a modem as well. Wi-Fi has a range of about 300 feet. Of course, 802.11n promises to double the range.

In contrast, WiMAX combines Wi-Fi and the modem. WiMAX covers 30 miles. So far, two companies have teamed up to conquer the WiMAX market. Sprint will take the urban areas. Clearwire will provide WiMAX to rural areas.

For the sake of discussion, let's say you have Sprint's service. You would get a modem that’s about the size of a router. This connects to your laptop. Wherever you wanted to access WiMAX, you’d need to take the box. Umm, not very convenient.

Here's the problem: Your computer doesn't have a WiMAX card. However, that's going to change in June. That's when Intel will release its Centrino 2 platform.

Centrino integrated Wi-Fi into laptops; Centrino 2 will do the same for WiMAX. When this happens, the external modem won’t be needed. WiMAX will function much like a cellular laptop card.

That brings me to an important point. WiMAX won’t be free. Details on pricing haven’t been released. I’d expect WiMAX to cost the same as home broadband or even cellular broadband access. However, competition from cable and DSL should hold prices down.

Sprint and Clearwire hope to have a sizable coverage area when Intel Centrino 2 launches in June.

Now, there are advantages to WiMAX. It provides an alternative to cable broadband and DSL. That’s particularly welcome in rural areas.

Aside from the improved range, WiMAX is also capable of faster speeds than Wi-Fi. However, many things can affect the speed of a WiMAX connection. For example, there’s the network configuration and the number of concurrent users. WiMAX will probably provide speeds similar to cable broadband.

WiMAX also has a fairly low lag time. So it is good for handling telephone service and online games. Satellite services tend to choke on these applications.

WiMAX should be here before too long. Will I recommend it when it arrives? We’ll just have to wait and see!

In the mean time, brush up on your networking skills with these tips:
   • What’s going on with 802.11n?
   • Power gadgets over your network
   • Stop interference on a wireless network
   • Secure a wireless repeater

157. Installing gadgets in Windows Vista
I recently saw something about gadgets in Windows Vista. They sound like really useful tools. But I can’t figure out how to add them to my desktop. Can you fill me in on what I need to do?

Windows Vista adds many new features to Microsoft’s operating system. A very useful addition is Windows Sidebar. Sidebar is the feature you heard about. It’s a bar that sits on the side of the desktop. It holds gadgets that can do any number of things.

Sidebar may not be turned on by default. If you’re new to Vista, you may not even know it exists. It isn’t obvious where the Sidebar program is located. To find it, click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>Windows Sidebar.

You can have Sidebar start along with Windows. It’ll show up on your desktop every time you start your computer. Click Start>>Control Panel. Then click Classic View and select Windows Sidebar Properties. Lastly, check the box labeled “Start Sidebar when Windows starts.”

The Sidebar gadgets can do many things. They are like specialized mini programs. Several come pre-loaded with Vista. There is a photo viewer, weather utility and RSS reader, among others. It’s pretty cool to have these tools right at your fingertips.

You don’t have to settle on Sidebar’s default gadgets. Click the “+” at the top of the Sidebar. You’ll see a list of available gadgets. Double click any gadget to add it to the Sidebar.

The initial selection of gadgets is pretty limited. No problem. Hundreds are available online. If you can think of a useful gadget, you can probably find it.

To download new gadgets, click the + at the top of the Sidebar. Then click “Get more gadgets online” at the bottom of the window. This will open the gadgets site in your browser. There you can explore and rate many popular gadgets.

If you tire of a gadget, it’s easy to remove. Hold your cursor over the gadget. Small icons will appear next to it. Click the X to remove it.

Many gadgets are customizable. You may be able to change how they look or function. Hold your cursor over a gadget. Then click the small wrench symbol next to the gadget. You’ll get a new window with customization options.

Your gadgets aren’t locked to the Sidebar. You can place gadgets anywhere on the desktop. Just drag and drop the gadget anywhere you want.

Many gadgets have two states. They look and act differently when attached or detached from the Sidebar. When moved to the desktop, a photo viewer will grow in size. A weather gadget may change from current conditions to an extended forecast. Play with your gadgets to discover new abilities.

I like Windows Sidebar and use several free gadgets. I have links to some of them in my Downloads section. One gadget I really like is Magic Folder. It makes organizing your folders a breeze. Give it try.

More Vista features:
   • Could you benefit from Vista’s security features?
   • Vista makes PowerPoint presentations easier
   • Need help picking the right version of Vista?

156. eSATA external drives
Q. I bought an external hard drive for backing up my computer. The drive has USB and eSATA connections. I’m unfamiliar with eSATA. The manual claims it is faster than USB. Can you explain eSATA? Also, how do I connect the eSATA drive to my computer?

A. I’m seeing more and more external drives with eSATA connections. But I’m sure many people are still unfamiliar with eSATA.

It stands for external serial advanced technology attachment. Now that’s a mouthful! eSATA is the external version of a SATA drive. Many computers today use SATA drives instead of older IDE drives.

eSATA provides benefits over USB and FireWire connections.

Most notably, eSATA is much faster. There are two iterations of eSATA. The slower one transfers data at 1.5 gigabits per second. Newer eSATA connections can transfer data at 3Gbps. There are rumors of an eSATA that will hit 6Gbps.

USB and FireWire are not in the same league. USB 2.0 transfers data at 480 megabits per second. USB 1.1 topped out at 12Mbps. FireWire is available in two speeds: 400 and 800Mbps.

USB 3.0 has been announced. It will offer speeds up to 4.8Gbps. Firewire will also get a boost—to 3.2Gbps. To achieve these speeds, however, you’ll need to upgrade your computer.

eSATA is able to achieve high speeds for one important reason. The data is not translated as it passes into the computer.

In contrast, USB and FireWire drives use bridges. The hard drives themselves are SATA or IDE. A bridge is needed to connect them to USB or FireWire cables. The bridge must translate the data so the cable can transmit it. The translation process slows things.

eSATA will also let you access S.M.A.R.T. information on your hard drive. S.M.A.R.T. stands for Self-Monitoring Analysis and Reporting Technology. It is a set of tools built into hard drives.

The S.M.A.R.T. data can alert you to pending hard drive failure. For more on learning about the health of a hard drive, read this tip on my site.

eSATA also has drawbacks. An external peripheral cannot receive power through a SATA cable. So it requires an external power source. Some peripherals can be powered via USB and Firewire connections. Thus, no external power source is needed.

The lack of power can be a hassle. However, eSATA connections should soon be able to power external gadgets.

Not many computers have eSATA connections. So, you may have to do some minor surgery to your computer.

Adapters are available for desktops. They allow a direct hookup to an internal SATA connection. (eSATA and SATA connections are physically different.)

Or, you could install an expansion card. These plug into PCI or PCI Express slots. They usually provide several eSATA connections. And you don’t need to use one of your internal SATA connections. A card will run about $50.

eSATA cards also are available for laptops. They plug into the PC Card or ExpressCard slot.

You might also be interested in Wireless USB. It lets you connect to USB gadgets wirelessly. To learn more about Wireless USB, visit my site.

155. System Restore and Shadow Copy
Q. I just upgraded from Vista Home Premium to Vista Ultimate. The upgrade went smoothly and all my data is still on the machine. But I noticed something creepy. I was poking around in the Properties of my Documents folder. I clicked on a tab labeled Previous Versions. There were copies of documents I had deleted months ago! Is this normal? What’s going on?

A. You’ve stumbled across one of the quirks in Windows Vista. As you know, not all versions of Vista have the same features. I have a tip that covers what’s in each edition.

The Previous Versions feature is available in all editions except Vista Home Basic and Vista Home Premium. It is driven by the Shadow Copy utility, which is tied to System Restore. The latter is used to rescue your computer if something fouls it up. I have a tip that explains System Restore. It was written for Windows XP, but Vista is about the same.

Each time a restore point is created on your machine, Shadow Copy creates a previous version for each of your documents. This is intended to help you if you need to recover a version of your document.

Of course, Shadow Copy also creates previous versions of folders. That way, you can retrieve an accidentally deleted document.

You can access the previous versions by right-clicking a file and selecting Properties. Then, open the Previous Versions tab. You can select one of the previous versions. Click Open to view it. Or click Copy or Restore to retrieve the document.

To access the previous versions of a folder, open the folder in Windows Explorer. Right-click inside the folder and select Properties. Open the Previous Versions tab.

Sounds great, doesn’t it? Now for the downside. Shadow Copy exists in Vista Home Basic and Vista Home Premium. That means Windows is creating previous versions of your files. However, Microsoft took away the tools to let you access the previous versions.

This poses a security risk. Copies of your sensitive files are being made without your knowledge. And they’re hidden away on your hard drive where you can’t find or access them.

But, as you’ve discovered, this data is retrievable with a simple upgrade. Yikes!

Unfortunately, there is no way to turn off Shadow Copy. Nor is there an easy way to delete the previous versions of your documents.

There is a work-around, though. You can turn off System Restore. This will turn off Shadow Copy. Turning off System Restore could create problems, though. If you need to restore your computer to an earlier time, you’re out of luck.

However, you could turn off System Restore and then turn it back on. Turning off System Restore will clean out all your old restore points. It will also remove all the previous versions of your files and folders. You could do this periodically, if you’re concerned about what’s lurking on your machine.

To turn off System Restore, click Start>>Control Panel. Double-click System and then click “System protection.” On the System Protection tab, you should see your hard drive under Available Disks. Deselect it. When prompted, click Turn System Restore Off.

To enable System Restore again, follow the above steps. But select your hard drive instead of deselecting it.

Here's another tip that will interest you:

• Removing files from Instant Search

154. Media Center in Windows XP and Vista
Q. I’ve been thinking about upgrading my XP machine to Windows Vista. I want a version like XP Media Center Edition. But it looks like Microsoft hasn’t released one. Do you know if this is on the horizon? Or should I just hunt down a copy of XP Media Center Edition?

A. You’re right. Microsoft does not offer a Media Center Edition of Vista. That’s because it has changed things around a bit. Instead of releasing it as a separate operating system, Microsoft includes Media Center as a program.

Media Center comes installed on two versions of Vista: Home Premium and Ultimate. So you just need to decide which version is right for you. I have a comparison guide that will help.

For those unfamiliar with Media Center, it is designed to make it easier to access your media. You can play DVDs, and browse your music, videos and photos. It even lets you play and record television. For that, you’ll need a TV tuner.

To find Media Center, click Start>>All Programs>>Windows Media Center. When you start it, you’ll be greeted by a welcome screen. It will ask you to select a setup type. Or, you can opt to forgo the setup process. On my machine, I selected Custom Setup.

The program will walk you through the setup process. It is fairly straightforward.

Once you’re done, you can begin browsing the media on your computer. The program is designed to be used with a remote, but your mouse will do just fine.

Navigating can be confusing. You’ll see functions listed vertically. Options for each function are listed horizontally.

If you have a TV tuner on your computer, you’ll need to set that up, too. To do so, click Tasks in the vertical column. Scroll right to Settings. Click it and select TV and Set Up TV Signal.

Follow the instructions to set up your television tuner(s). Media Center supports a maximum of two tuners. They will automatically scan for available television stations.

Once you’ve set up your television tuners, you can begin watching television on your computer. If you want to record shows, you’ll need to set up more options.

To set up recording options, go back to Tasks. Scroll right and select Settings, TV and Recorder. You’ll want to set up storage options first. So, select Recorder Storage. You’ll be prompted to select a storage area and allocate space to your shows. When you’re done, click Save.

Next, you’ll want to check the recording defaults. You can change when Media Center overwrites old recordings. You can also change the default start and stop times for recordings. For example, you can set a margin to make sure part of a show isn’t missed. Click Save when done.

Media Center includes a program guide. Click TV + Movies and select Guide. You can use it to schedule recordings of shows. To record a show, simply select a show and click the Record button. If the show is part of a series, you can click the Record Series button.

If you later decide to cancel your subscription to a series, you can. First, select TV + Movies and Recorded TV. You’ll see a thumbnail of each recording. Scroll through to find one of the shows from the series. Click it for more information. Click Cancel Series.

Playing a show is just as simple. On the information screen for a recording, simply click Play. To delete a show, you can click Delete on the information screen. Or, set an expiration date using the Keep Until button.

To record a show that is in progress, click the Record button. It appears in the controls that appear when you move the mouse.

Media Center also lets you burn shows to DVD or CD. On a show’s information screen, click the Burn CD/DVD button. Follow the prompts to select the format and burn the disc.

Here are some more tips that will interest you:

• Preparing for the digital broadcasting transition
• Connecting a computer to a television

153. Diagnosing a slow computer
Q. I have Norton 2007 Internet Security and have kept it up to date. When I’m online, numerous processes run in the background. Norton identifies these as worms, Trojans or spyware. Here are the processes I’ve identified: LuCallBackProxy, lsass.exe, csrss.exe, smss.exe and wuauclt.exe. My computer runs very slowly. And I keep getting e-mail offers to make a body part larger. I have also run anti-spyware to no avail. I'm about ready to buy a new computer. Can you help?

A. Diagnosing problems in our computers can sometimes be complicated. Looking for various pieces of malware and spyware is a good start. But I question whether malware is your problem.

First, let's look at your suspect processes. All are valid; none should be disabled.

LuCallBackProxy
Several people have asked me about this process. It is actually part of your Norton Internet Security software. It assists LiveUpdate in retrieving and loading updates for Norton programs.

This is important for keeping security programs up to date. Don’t disable it. If you do, your computer could be open to malware.

lsass.exe
This is a Windows system process. It deals with local security and log-in policies. It’s used to authenticate users trying to sign on to your computer. This is crucial for the security of your PC.

However, Isass.exe is a virus. Wait, don’t they look the same? Yes, and that’s the point. The good process’ name begins with a lowercase L. The bad one begins with an uppercase I. When looking at processes on your PC, the font is usually san-serif. This font can make it difficult to tell the difference. The use of the upper-case I is not coincidental.

Isass.exe can disable your security programs, including your firewall. It also opens a backdoor for hackers. This program should be disabled and removed immediately. But be careful not to mix it up with lsass.exe.

csrss.exe
This is part of the Microsoft Client/Server Runtime Server Subsystem. It handles most of the graphical commands for Windows.

You need this file for your PC to run properly. Leave it alone.

smss.exe
This process is part of Windows. Its real name is Session Manager Subsystem. It controls sessions for your PC.

If you end this process, many programs will not function properly.

wuauclt.exe
This process manages automatic updates for Windows. It runs in the background and continually checks for updates. It uses your Internet connection to do the checking.

It’s important to stay on top of Windows updates. They routinely fix problems with Windows and close security holes. For the safety of your PC, keep this one around.

Adding RAM
How much random access memory do you have? If your RAM is minimal, that will slow your computer seriously.

When RAM overflows, the extra data goes into the paging file. This is a special section on the hard drive. When something there is needed by Windows, RAM clears space by sending something to the hard drive. Then it retrieves the needed data from the paging file.

This to-and-fro from the paging file slows the computer. Why? The hard drive is much slower than RAM. The process works, but it requires patience.

The cure is more RAM. For Windows XP, I would use 1 gigabyte of RAM. In Windows Vista, I recommend 2 gigabytes. I have a buying guide that covers RAM purchases.

If you have plenty of RAM, test it. Microsoft has a test program, as does Memtest86. Both are free.

Check for rootkits
It sounds like your antivirus and anti-spyware programs aren't finding anything. That means nothing is there. But you may have another problem: a rootkit.

Rootkits are some of the newest tools in a hacker’s arsenal. They can hide in the most basic of Windows operations. They also mask themselves to look like other programs. Rootkits can carry viruses, worms and other malware.

This tool usually fools both Windows and antivirus programs. Luckily, there is a solution. There are several anti-rootkit programs available. I have three free ones on my site: AVG Anti-Rootkit, Rootkitrevealer and Panda’s AntiRootkit.

Defrag hard drive
Another cause could be a badly fragmented hard drive. Fragmentation happens as files are written to the hard drive. Components are placed wherever the drive has space. This can scatter related files all over the drive. It’s much harder for the drive to call up scattered files. This can slow your computer.

To correct fragmentation, use the Windows Defragmenter. Click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>System Tools>>Disk Defragmenter. Choose your hard drive and hit Analyze. Windows will check your drive to see if defragmenting is necessary. If Windows says it is, click Defragment.

While you’re looking at the drive, do some house cleaning. Using Windows’ Disk Cleanup Utility will remove files you no longer need. Extraneous files just take up space. This is especially important if you have limited space on your drive.

Click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>System Tools>>Disk Cleanup. Select your disk and hit OK. Windows will show your options. Be sure to delete Temporary Internet Files and dump the Recycle Bin.

Too many start-up programs
Another possibility is that you have too many start-up programs. Some programs are set to start in the background upon log-in. So, when you try to start the application later it opens quickly. Many programs do this by default, even programs you don’t use often. Too many can cause slow performance.

I can explain the best way to minimize your start-up programs.

E-mail offers
Your e-mail about a certain body part is another issue. Spam is just part of life for most people. Just because you’re getting spam doesn’t mean your PC is infected. Spammers don’t need to use malware to send you spam. They just need your e-mail address.

Block lists and anti-spam tools can help cut down on spam. But spammers are smart. And they usually find ways around those programs. It can be simple, like tweaking a letter in their e-mail address.

Take a look at my tip on filtering spam more effectively.

If, after all this, you decide to buy a computer, check my buying guides. I have buying guides for basic laptops and desktops.

152. Like something you heard on the radio?
Q. I spend a lot of time listening to the radio. Often, I’ll want to download a song I hear from iTunes. But I don’t know the name of the song or musician. How can I find the songs I hear on the radio?

A. I get this question often. There are many ways to find the songs' names.

I'd first visit the radio station’s Web site. Stations often post their playlists. Look at the time of day when you heard the song. Maybe the title or artist’s name will be obvious.

If not, you can probably narrow it down to a few songs. Visit iTunes and listen to the samples of those songs. There’s a good chance you’ll find it.

Radio stations usually feature a "now playing" section on their sites. It will have the name when the song is played.

There are still more ways to get a song's name. If you remember a phrase from the song, enter it in Google. Surround the phrase in quotes.

Many sites feature lyrics, so the song should pop up. I’ve found many songs using this method.

Some sites will let you search for lyrics specifically. Try Yahoo!’s lyrics site or FindMeATune.

For a more innovative way to find a song, try Tunatic. This is a free music-identification program.

You’ll need to hold the radio to your computer’s microphone. It will compare the song and music in its database. How fun!

For more tips on music and audio, visit my site.

151. Wearing out flash memory
Q. My flash drives die about every two years. My friends tell me that they can be written to millions of times. But I have a theory. Maybe my computer is writing to the same section of the drive all the time. I use my drives about 10 times a day for two or three years. So that’s only about 11,000 writes. What’s going on?

A. Consumer flash drives probably can’t be written to millions of times. Sandisk says flash memory can endure tens of thousands of write cycles, if not hundreds of thousands.

Before we continue, let me explain "write cycle." A write cycle is writing a file to the memory and then deleting it.

Now, it is possible for cells in flash memory to go bad. But that won’t prevent you from using the rest of the drive/card. You just won’t be able to write to that one section.

Some flash memory includes wear-leveling algorithms. They're designed to prevent the computer from repeatedly writing to the same cells. It chooses different areas of the memory to which to write. This prevents specific areas of memory from wearing out quickly.

It is unlikely that your flash memory is wearing out so quickly. Other factors could be causing problems. Without more information, I can’t make an exact diagnosis.

First, you could be plugging and unplugging the flash drive a lot. This can cause problems with the USB connector. If the connector goes bad, you can’t access the card's data.

You can also introduce errors on the flash drive. Errors could make it appear that the drive's memory is going bad.

One example: removing the drive while the computer is writing to it. Or, maybe you’re using the flash drive with a laptop. If the laptop is low on juice, errors are possible.

In these cases, the drive can be saved. Just format it. Simply attach it to your computer. In Windows Explorer, right-click the drive. Select Format and wait while it goes through the steps.

This should fix any data errors introduced into the card. But if the problem is with the USB connector, you’re probably sunk.

All of this assumes you’re using flash drives from reputable manufacturers. Some shadier operations use inferior memory. Also, the build quality probably wouldn’t be as strong. That might cause problems with the connectors. So, spend a little extra to buy name brand flash memory.

150. Watch out for power surges
My neighbors had a power surge that burned up most of their electronics. Fortunately, I wasn’t affected by the surge. But how can I protect my computer and electronics from surges? I currently use a 3350 joules surge protector.

Unfortunately, protecting electronics from large power surges isn’t easy. That’s particularly true when you’re talking about lightning. In fact, a surge protector won’t protect your computer from lightning strikes.

I use an uninterruptible power supply, rather than a surge protector. An online (AKA continuous or true) UPS should protect your gear from lightning strikes.

With these units, the computer draws power from the battery. It is not connected directly to an electrical outlet. If lightning strikes, your battery probably will be fried. But the computer should be protected.

The UPS' main job is to keep you running if the power fails. The battery will run the computer for about 10 minutes. Because it is already running the computer, there is no hesitation.

Batteries can fail. Even so, the unit still functions as a super-surge suppressor. But if the power fails, the computer goes dark.

Expect to pay a minimum of $150 for an online UPS.

You’ll also see offline (or standby) UPS's. If the power fails, there is a momentary outage as the UPS switches to battery power. You could lose data.

Line interactive UPS's are more sophisticated then offline units. They still have to switch to the battery. But the switch is faster. You also may get better lightning protection.

Your surge suppressor sounds pretty capable. It will protect you against household power spikes. These can be caused when an appliance starts, for instance.

A buyer should look for a couple things in a surge suppressor. First, consider energy dissipation. This is the amount of power the suppressor is able to absorb.

Energy dissipation is measured in joules. Higher numbers are better. In the past I have recommended a minimum 800 joules. So, at 3350 joules, you’re sitting pretty.

Also look at the suppressed voltage rating. It refers to the voltage that a suppressor lets through. Lower numbers are better. I recommend one rated for 330v.

Power can enter through your cable and phone lines, too. So make sure your surge suppressor has these connections.

A surge suppressor is much less expensive than a good UPS. One such as yours can be had online for about $35. But it will not protect you from lightning. I have a sad story online, if you are still a disbeliever.

If lightning is common in your area, I recommend an online UPS.

149. Digital Photography - Shooting in RAW for High-Dynamic range-imaging (HDRI)
Q. I’ve been taking photographs semi-professionally for years. I see where photography is headed, so I recently made the leap to digital. I hate it! I miss the dynamic range of film-based photography. A friend told me about high-dynamic range-imaging. I’m not sure what this is, but it sounds like a solution. Can you offer me some insight?

A. First off, don’t give up on digital yet! Many die-hard photographers find the switch to digital difficult. A digital sensor behaves differently from film. You just need to learn the nuances of digital photography.

For those who aren’t familiar with dynamic range, let me explain. Dynamic range is the range from the darkest to the brightest levels in a photograph. The greater the dynamic range, the more detailed and realistic the photograph.

It is true that digital photography doesn’t offer as much dynamic range as film. But even film can’t match the human eye's tonal range.

Camera manufacturers are making advancements in dynamic range. And higher-end cameras usually have a much improved dynamic range.

Now, if you’re not shooting in RAW format, begin immediately. RAW format has many benefits. A dramatically improved dynamic range is one of them. I have a tip that explains that.

High-dynamic-range imaging (HDRI) may or may not be right for you. It depends on your tastes. Many photographers are dedicated to HDRI. Many more hate it.

High-dynamic-range photographs are achieved using special software. Newer versions of Photoshop also will do the trick.

To create an HDR image, you need three or more versions of the same photo. Each is taken at different exposures.

Take the photos in manual mode and turn manual focus on. Change shutter speed to achieve different exposures. That’s because changing the aperture will affect the photograph’s depth of field, resulting in different photographs. Obviously, the subject of the photograph should be still.

The software essentially combines the images so that you can see detail in both highlights and shadows.

Displaying HDR images is a problem. Monitors and paper prints can't show the full dynamic range. So tone mapping is used.

There are different ways to implement tone mapping. The highlights might be compressed in order to brighten the rest of the image. Contrast would be improved in the rest of the picture.

Or, the brightness and darkness of certain pixels may be changed depending on surrounding pixels. This essentially tricks the eye into believing the image has greater contrast and range. For example, a pixel in a highlight may actually be darker than a pixel in a shadow in a different part of the photograph.

If you have Photoshop CS2 or CS3, you might want to experiment with HDRI. Or, there are some free programs you can use. Try FDRTools Basic or easyHDR Basic.

It is difficult to achieve realistic results from HDRI. Many HDR images have a look that gives them away. Maybe you’ll appreciate the effect. Maybe not.

Fortunately, camera manufacturers haven’t given up on dynamic range. They’re looking for more ways to improve it.

And, remember, no HDR image can beat good lighting.

148. Printing photos at home
I want to print photos on photo material sheets. If I do that, will the prints fade? Would it be better to have a photo place do them.

There is a lot of contention around this issue. Printer manufacturers sell their own paper. Other companies also sell photo paper. Everyone thinks theirs is the best.

The printer manufacturers are well aware of this issue. In addition to paper, they also sell archival-quality inks.

The manufacturers say their printers, ink, ink cartridges and paper were made to work together. They insist that using them together will give you the best results. It appears that they are right.

A good deal of research has been done on this subject. One leading expert is Henry Wilhelm, of Wilhelm Imaging Research. He has done numerous studies on inkjet photos' permanence.

I couldn't find articles on tests later than 2005. But I believe those results are still relevant.

Basically, Wilhelm found that Canon, Epson and Hewlett-Packard turned out long-lasting pictures. Epson was best, with pictures lasting nearly 100 years.

Of course, Wilhelm doesn't have 100 years to test them. So he kept fluorescent lights burning on prints. That caused fade, eventually. The fade then was translated into years.

Epson uses pigment-based inks, instead of dyes. That may be the reason for its good showing.

You'll have to decide how much you want to spend. High-quality paper is relatively expensive. And the printer manufacturers categorize their papers from good to super-duper. Of course, prices climb with quality.

One of the also-rans in Wilhelm's paper tests was Kodak. It essentially was selling all-purpose paper for every printer. Wilhelm said it was mediocre. (Kodak strongly disagreed.)

However, Kodak began selling its own printers this year. I haven't seen permanence tests on that system. But I'd bet that it's pretty good. No one has more experience with photo paper than Kodak.

You asked about taking your photos to a "photo place." That could be problematic. Who knows what they use? You can maintain more control by doing it yourself. But that is more expensive, given the cost of paper and ink.

An exception might be camera shops. Owners have a great deal of experience with photography. They may be able to guarantee long- lasting prints. But they will probably be more expensive than a drugstore.

One other thing: Wilhelm's tests were harsh. They really apply to pictures that are displayed. Most people put pictures in an album or shoe box. If they aren't subject to light, they are less likely to fade. But they can still be affected by temperature, humidity and air quality.

So, what's the bottom line? I would use ink, cartridges and paper from my printer's manufacturer. You will have to decide what you want to pay for paper. Most manufacturers have a number of grades.

For really, really important photos, I'd go to a camera shop.

If you are producing many prints, consider an online service. They can save you significant money. Both Kodak Gallery and Shutterfly say they use archival paper. They will probably be much cheaper than doing it yourself. But you lose some control.

My last choice would be the corner drugstore. Who knows what they use? Their clerks are generally not photography experts. However, the drugstores are cheap and quick.

Remember, you can store the originals on your computer. They are 1's and 0's, just like a Word document. So they'll never fade. You can do new prints whenever you like.

Hard drives can fail. If yours fails, it will take your pictures with it. So back up your data. Check out my tip on online backups.

I also have a book on CD about digital photography. You'll find it helpful. It's in my e-store. And if you have pictures you really like, why not enter my photo contest?

147. Which programs will run on Vista?
Q. How can I tell if a program that runs on Windows XP will be compatible with the new Vista operating system? I need to buy a second PC for my home, and I was thinking about a Vista machine. I don't know if my expensive software (which runs well on XP) will run properly on Vista. Please let me know!

A. I can’t give you definitive information, since I don’t know what your programs are. We switched to Vista in January, and found compatibility was a mixed bag.

Most programs we use made the switch without problems. For example, Firefox runs well on Vista. And Microsoft products, including the ubiquitous Office suite, are also good bets.

On the other hand, our Web site management program is dicey. It works on some machines, and doesn’t on others. We’ve also had minor problems with Adobe’s Dreamweaver.

Unfortunately, there is no sure way to predict which programs will transfer to Vista. However, Microsoft's Vista Upgrade Advisor is a good start before you make the switch. It will notify you of known program compatibility problems. You could also search online for any complaints about your program's behavior on Vista.

Some changes in Windows Vista can cause problems. One example is User Account Control. It restricts the privileges of your default Vista account. This can help limit the dangers of viruses or other malicious programs. But it also can put up obstacles when you try to run programs.

In XP, the default account has full Administrator privileges. Many XP programs are coded with the assumption of Administrator privileges. This is especially common with games. You'll hit problems in Vista if the programs expect you to have full Administrator privileges.

Although User Account Control is a security feature, I don't consider it terribly important. You can disable it. I have instructions on my site.

Windows Vista includes Program Compatibility Wizard to help run uncooperative older programs. However, it was not helpful for us.

Maybe you'll find it helpful. To start Program Compatibility Wizard, click Start>>Control Panel. Click Programs. Then click "Use an older program with this version of Windows." You can browse for the program on CD or on your hard drive.

Vista can simulate the behavior of versions all the way back to Windows 95. You can even choose monitor settings from the old days. Vista can save the settings to open the program similarly in the future.

So, what’s the bottom line? Compatibility problems are certainly possible. If your programs are published by major companies, they should be able to tell you. Also, search online. If they are custom, check with the programmers.

If there is any doubt, and these programs are important, stick with XP. Get a powerful machine. That way, you can upgrade to Vista later if you like.

145. Running Office XP on Vista
Q. I am going to upgrade to Windows Vista. Will I be able to load my Office XP on Vista? Or, do I have to purchase Office 2003 or 2007?

A. According to Microsoft, Vista supports Office XP, also known as Office 2002. It also supports Office 2000, 2003 and 2007.

Microsoft says Office 2007 was developed specifically for Vista. So, it says, Office 2007 is the "recommended and best version" for Vista. I'm not sure what that means.

I would install Office XP. It will probably run fine. If it's unacceptable, uninstall it and move up to 2007. We use Office 2007 on all of our office machines. We have had no problems with it.

Some of my people use Office XP on home computers. The operating system on those machines is Windows XP. That version of Office and the one at the shop work equally well for them. So they don't feel compelled to buy Office 2007.

Actually, Microsoft does a good job in this area. Backward compatibility has always been a Windows selling point. At least one of my employees runs ancient DOS programs on Vista. (MS-DOS preceded Windows. The last stand-alone version of MS-DOS was published in 1994.)

So, I would be surprised if earlier Office versions had problems.

Vista has a backup plan: the Program Compatibility Wizard. I have a tip on my site that covers that. In brief, the wizard simulates the environment of earlier Windows systems. It goes back to Windows 95.

We didn't have much luck with the Program Compatibility Wizard. A better solution might be a virtual machine. With that, you could run Windows XP within Vista, along with programs developed for XP.

Microsoft has a virtual machine program—Virtual PC 2007. It's free. It runs on Vista Business or Vista Ultimate. I have more information on my site.

143. Is that spam message from you?
Q. I have been receiving e-mail messages with my address in the From field. It looks like I sent them. When I look at the headers, I can see that they are sent by someone else. Should I forward them to spam@uce.gov? Will they know that I’m reporting the actual sender, or will they come after me? Is this kind of trickery common?

A. The FTC owns spam@uce.gov. You can forward fraudulent spam to this address. You might get messages promoting weight-loss, credit repair and pyramid schemes. If they make misleading or false claims, the FTC wants them.

The FTC uses the spam to find and stop fraudulent spammers. So, I recommend that you forward these messages to the FTC.

When you forward the spam, send the full headers. The headers contain information about the message. The FTC is especially interested in the headers' Internet Protocol addresses.

The messages will contain the IP addresses of the machines where they originated. They also contain IP addresses for the servers that relayed the messages.

The FTC knows spammers use deceptive techniques. And, of course, it is seeking deceptive messages in particular. The FTC won’t take information in the From field at face value.

It isn’t uncommon for spammers to spoof e-mail addresses. In fact, return e-mail addresses are usually fraudulent.

I often see spam messages in my inbox bearing my own e-mail address. So have many other computer users. I really wouldn’t worry that the FTC will come after you.

I don’t know if there will ever be a solution to spam. However, I have links on my site to free anti-spam programs. Of course, you should never, ever respond to spam.

142. Backing up Outlook Express files
Q. Can you explain how to back up Outlook Express files and folders?

A. Sure. I assume you want to back up your Inbox, Sent Items, Deleted Items, etc. There's a relatively easy—but inelegant—way to do it.

Outlook Express files end with dbx. So, you'll get Inbox.dbx, Folders.dbx, Offline.dbx, etc. The trick is finding the dbx files.

A search in Windows Explorer probably won't work. The search function is awful. Besides, Microsoft doesn't like to expose system files. So we'll just have to track 'em down!

To do that, open Outlook Express. Click Tools>>Options. Select the Maintenance tab. Click the Store Folder… button. You'll get a little Window that says Store Location. A box within the windows contains the path to the dbx files. This is the inelegant part.

Here's my path: C:\Documents and Settings\Kim\Local Settings\Application Data\Identities\{86757014-3806-4091-ADBB-3CD3F270ECE0}\Microsoft\Outlook Express.

Use Windows Explorer to follow the path. The dbx files are in the Outlook Express folder. As I said, Microsoft really doesn't want us messing with these files. So they may be hidden.

If you don't see them, click Tools>>Folder Options in Windows Explorer. Click View. Under Advanced Settings, select "Show hidden files and folders." Deselect "Hide extensions for known file types." Also deselect "Hide protected operating system files (Recommended)." Click Apply>>OK.

If you have a regular backup routine, just include the dbx files. If you don't, copy them to a flash drive, second hard drive or CD. Do not copy them to the hard drive on which they reside. Your biggest danger is a hard drive failure. If that were to happen, it would take the backup with it.

141. Choosing a Macro lens
Q. I recently purchased a digital SLR. I’m interested in macro photography. I have a telephoto zoom lens that is supposed take macro photos. However, my photos haven’t been successful. Do I need to activate macro settings? Or do I need different equipment?

A. Let's start by explaining macro photography. This is close-up photography. It is used to photograph such things as plants, insects and coins.

Some lenses have a switch for macro mode. However, most lenses don’t require this. Macro shots are done automatically. Check the information that came with your lens.

Many people buy telephoto zoom lenses. They are versatile, and convenient for travelling.

But, as you’re discovering, no lens is good at everything. Telephoto zoom lenses generally don’t do macro photography well.

I recommend a prime lens for macro photography. A prime lens has a fixed focal length. For example, you can buy a 50mm lens that has macro abilities.

A macro lens simply has the ability to focus close to a subject. The subject will be magnified and appear large in the photo.

Now, let me explain what you need to know to select a macro lens.

First, look at the minimum focusing distance. This is how close you can get to your subject and focus. I’d aim for seven inches or so.

Next up is magnification. That is expressed as a ratio. Traditionally, macro lenses have a magnification ratio of 1:1 or 1:2. This means that objects would be either life-size or half life-size on a 35mm frame of film.

But you’ll find lenses that have a 1:4 or 1:3 magnification ratio. A subject photographed with a 1:4 lens would be life-size on a 4x6 print. Your telephoto lens probably has a 1:4 or 1:3 magnification ratio. So I would look for a lens that has a 1:1 magnification ratio.

There are other ways to take macro photographs. One of the most popular tools is an extension tube. This fits between the camera and the lens. It simply changes the focusing distance.

If you have a prime lens, you might try an extension tube with it. Extension tubes also increase magnification with macro lenses.

They're relatively inexpensive. For example, you can pick up a set for less than $200. But you’ll make some sacrifices. First, your images will be darker.

Second, you might find that some camera features are disabled. You might lose autofocus abilities. Or, you might not be able to use the internal light meter. Problems will vary, depending on the lens and extension tube. So research the extension tube before you buy.

If you’re looking for a third option, try close-up filters. These attach to the front of your lens. Again, they allow closer focusing, magnifying the subject. They’re much less expensive than extension tubes or lenses. Prices start around $35.

Close-up filters have different diopters, or powers. The higher the diopter, the stronger the magnification. For example, a +10 diopter may give you a half life-size or larger reproduction. You can also stack close-up filters for greater magnification.

There are still more solutions for macro photography. For example, you can use a bellows or a reversing ring. You can use a macro coupler to reverse mount a lens on the front of an existing one. These are bulkier solutions. But if you’re interested in trying them, you’ll find plenty of information online.

To learn more about digital SLRs and lenses, visit my site.

And did you know that you can find close-up lenses for point-and-shoot cameras?

140. Putting your Social Security number online
Q. My employer wants me to sign up for benefits online. This requires me to enter my Social Security number on a secure site. I’m told that I need to use Internet Explorer 6 to enroll. Is this process safe?

A. Yes. Internet transmission is the least risky aspect of this transaction. Your number is much more likely to be stolen through corporate carelessness. Or, if you mail it, it could be stolen by thieves. I feel much safer with the Web than with the postal system.

However, I'm surprised that they require Internet Explorer 6. It was replaced by IE 7 last year.

Some people do continue to use IE 6. Version 7 did not always work well with Windows XP. Microsoft has continued to update IE6. Assuming the computer with IE 6 has been updated, you are safe.

Both versions of Internet Explorer use SSL (Secure Socket Layer). This is a currently unbreakable encryption method. It is used to transmit data over the Internet. (Other browsers, such as Firefox and Safari, also use SSL. It was developed by Netscape years ago.)

If the data is intercepted, it can’t be read. The encryption is too strong to be broken. I have a tip that explains SSL.

The truth is, other organizations also require your Social Security number. One such is the Internal Revenue Service. Others include the credit agencies—Transunion, Experian and Equifax. Any of those might require you to transmit your Social Security number. You are always safe transmitting it, because you are using SSL.

Crooks can set up SSL sites, too. So make sure you’re visiting the correct site and not a phishing site. Phishing sites are set up by crooks to steal your personal information. You are unlikely to run into this problem in your case. Just double-check that you are using the proper Web address.

I assume the benefits company has appropriate security measures in place. However, many companies have faced data breaches. The company will probably put your data into its computer system.

In fact, you are worrying about the wrong thing. There have been no instances of transmission theft, to my knowledge. But there have been many instances of theft through corporate carelessness.

You're much more likely to be the victim of an inside theft. Or, your records could be found in the trash by dumpster divers. Or, the company's database could be penetrated electronically by criminals. Or, a computer loaded with Social Security numbers could be stolen.

These failures are extraordinarily common. And in none of these cases can you exercise control. You must trust that the corporate world will protect you. Good luck with that!

Finally, consider what machine you’re using. It should have Windows XP or Vista installed. Earlier consumer versions of Windows aren’t safe. Also, never enter sensitive information on a public computer, such as one at a library. It could be compromised by criminals.

The computer you're using should have the latest Microsoft security patches. They fix vulnerabilities in Windows, along with other Microsoft programs. Browsers such as IE 6 and 7 require regular security updates.

Windows Update will download and install the patches for you. But you must have it enabled. Or, you can run it manually. Either way, you need these patches to make sure your software is up to date security-wise. To learn more about Windows Update, read my tip.

Next, the computer should have appropriate security software installed. That includes at least two anti-spyware programs, an antivirus program and a firewall. This will protect your computer from viruses, Trojans and other malware.

Of course, these programs should have the latest updates, too. Criminals come out with new programs regularly. So, security programs need to be updated in order to fend off these attacks.

I have links to any security software you may need. And it’s all free.

139. Downloading photos from a cell phone
Q. I would like to download photos I’ve taken with my cell phone. I would like to print them out. How do I go about doing this? Is there a Web site or something I can use?

A. There are many ways to get photos off a cell phone. But your options will vary, depending on your phone and service provider.

If your phone accepts a memory card, you can use it. There should be an option to move photos to the memory card. Then, insert the card into a reader and connect it to your computer. Moving the photos will be as simple as dragging and dropping.

Bluetooth may also do the trick. Your computer will need a Bluetooth adapter, if it doesn’t have Bluetooth. Then, pair your phone with the computer. Select a photo and look for a Bluetooth option.

You’ll also find cables to connect your phone to your computer. Check with your electronics store for one compatible with your phone model. Special software will help you move the photos off the phone.

I have a link on my site to a free program that might help. It works with many popular phone models.

If your phone isn’t supported, don’t worry. You can purchase software that will do the trick. Often, software and cables can be purchased together.

You can also use the cable and software to back up your phone. I highly recommend that!

E-mail is another option for transferring photos. Attach a photo to the e-mail and send it to your account. When you open the e-mail, copy the picture to your hard drive.

You can also upload the photos to a Web site like photobucket. But this generally adds a few more steps to the process. The site will give you an e-mail address where you can send your photos. Once there, download the photos to your computer. These sites are really designed for sharing your photos with other people.

I mentioned that your options may vary, depending on your cellular provider. Unfortunately, some providers block Bluetooth transfers. Others don’t let you send pictures via text messaging. They want you to sign up for another service, instead.

138. What do Web sites know when you visit?
Most people surf the Web for both entertainment and information. But did you know that each site you visit also gets information from you? More information is exchanged than meets the eye.

Each link that you click on the Internet is a request for a file. Usually, that file is a Web page. As part of each request, your Web browser shares information about itself and your computer. You can see this information for yourself by visiting analyze.privacy.net. Below are some of the major parts of the story your computer silently tells online.

IP address
One bit of information every Web site gets from you is your IP address. IP addresses allow computers to locate each other on the Internet or other networks. You may have seen them without knowing it. A common IP address in home networks is 192.168.1.1.

Your IP address doesn't give away your identity. However, it can be used to determine which ISP (Internet service provider) you're using. The ISP is a clue to which region or city you're in. That's a bit too specific for some folks.

Tools such as Tor, JAP and Privoxy can help hide your true IP address. They put other computers between Web sites and your PC. Their IP addresses are exposed to Web sites rather than yours.

These tools do not make you completely anonymous. After all, Web servers still must deliver information to your computer. Privacy tools only make the communication path difficult to follow. They won't help you evade law enforcement if you're up to no good.

Cookies
Web sites also have access to cookies. These are text files that allow sites to save information between visits. The typical cookie contains a single number. Web sites can't identify you, so they just give you a number. That allows sites to see the path of the average visitor.

Cookies are handled by your Web browser and saved with its files. You can view or delete them if you wish. To see cookies in Internet Explorer, click Tools>>Internet Options.

Under "Browsing history," click the Settings button. Then click "View files." You'll see the cookies among other bits of information the browser saves.

In Firefox, click Tools>>Options. Select Privacy. Then click the Show Cookies button.

Generally, cookies can only be read by the sites that create them. That is, most browsers don't allow a site to read another site's cookies. Some marketers work around this rule with third-party cookies that track your Web surfing. You can read about third-party cookies on my site.

Network ports
With your IP address, malicious sites might scan your computer for open ports. Ports are numbered paths of communication to or from your computer. Most ports are reserved for specific programs by convention. For example, Web browsers typically use port 80.

Open ports can indicate particular programs you're using on the Internet. For example, an open port 5190 indicates AOL Instant Messenger. It also invites attacks through potential security holes in the program.

A good firewall makes your computer invisible to port scans. Firewalls also can close ports you don't need.

Browser and Windows security holes
Web sites may also determine the Web browser and Windows versions you're using. This information can help site owners improve their pages. Malicious sites can use the information to customize their attacks.

Your best defense against these attacks is an updated computer. Updates often fix the security holes upon which hackers rely. To catch any threats that get through, run antivirus software and several anti-spyware programs. You can get free security programs on my site.

137. Moving Favorites or Bookmarks
Q. I bought a new computer and moved my data over. Well, some made it, and some didn't. My Favorites didn't. I went on my old PC and found an Internet Explorer 7 file that I thought was my Favorites. I copied that file to the new PC, and, of course, it doesn't work. So I tried to copy them from AOL and can't get that to work, either. What can I do?

A. Actually, I get this question a lot. Tracking down each Favorite would be a real bear. So we need a way to automate this.

In fact, moving the Favorites (or Bookmarks in Firefox) is easy. We'll do Internet Explorer first, since that's the question at hand. Then we'll look at Firefox.

Start in Internet Explorer by clicking File>>Import and Export. A wizard window will open. Click Next. Click Export Favorites and click Next. Select the main Favorites folder and click Next. Select Export to a File or Address. Click Browse. Navigate to Desktop and click Save. Note that the file name is Bookmark.htm. Click Next>>Finish.

Your Favorites are on the desktop in a file named Bookmark.htm. Burn this file to a CD-R or copy it to a flash drive. Go to the new computer and copy the file to the desktop.

Open Internet Explorer on the new computer. Click File>>Import and Export. A wizard window will open. Click Next. Select Import Favorites and click Next. Select Import from a File or Address. Click Browse. Find Desktop and open it. Click Bookmark.htm and click Open. Click Next. Click Favorites as the destination folder. Click Next>>Finish.

Firefox is just as easy. Click Bookmarks>>Organize Bookmarks. Click File>>Export. Browse to Desktop and click Save. The file's name is Bookmarks.html. Burn the file to a CD-R or save it to a flash drive.

Take the file to the new computer. Save it to the desktop. Now, open Firefox on the new computer. Click Bookmarks>>Organize Bookmarks. Click File>>Import. Under Import Bookmarks From:, select From File. Click Next. Click Bookmarks.html and click Open. That's it.

Do you have dead links in your Favorites or Bookmarks? I have a program that will fix that. If you use more than one computer, you might want to store your Bookmarks or Favorites online.

136. Rookie Rundown: Tips to get you newbies up and going!
Ron wrote from Seattle because his son will start college soon. He needs help finding a laptop for him.

Your first stop should be the school’s Web site. Many schools will list minimum system requirements. If your son has decided on a major, take that into consideration. A graphics design major needs a more powerful computer than an English major.

Next, you’ll need to decide between an Apple and a Windows machine. This is really a matter of preference. But your son may be required to have one or the other. That’s because certain programs only work with one of the two operating systems.

If you go with a Windows machine, you’ll have more options. And prices will be lower.

Opt for Vista Home Premium. There are several versions of Vista. This version best balances price and features.

The minimum amount of RAM required is a gigabyte. I’d double that. Today’s programs require a lot of RAM.

Get a hard drive that is at least 100 gigabytes. This provides ample room for software and files. Many professors offer recordings of lectures online. This can eat up a lot of hard drive space.

These days, a CD burner and DVD drive should be standard. But make sure one is included. Likewise, make sure an 802.11g wireless card and an Ethernet card are included.

You’ll encounter both AMD and Intel chips. I recommend sticking with AMD’s Turion or Intel’s Core 2 Duo. These are very powerful chips. They’re 64-bit dual core processors. Choose the chip based on price.

If you go with a Mac, you’ll be limited to Intel processors. Also, the wireless card will be 802.11n. That’s okay. Opt for at least one gigabyte of RAM and a 100-gigabyte hard drive.

Be prepared to pay more for a Mac. But Apple fans say Macs are easier to use and more secure.

The size and weight of the laptop will matter. Your son will be toting the computer around campus. But a large (and heavier) screen might be more important than portability.

Students often qualify for discounted computers and software. Read my recent column to learn more about these discounts.

There are a couple of other things you should consider:

A TV tuner card will obviate the need for a television set
An external hard drive will help with backups

135. Quad-core vs. dual-core processors
Q. I’m building my first computer just so I can say that I’ve done it. Since I’m putting a lot of work into it, I want it to last for a while. I’m using the best components. Money isn’t a major concern, but I’m trying to be reasonable. My question is this: Should I spring for a quad-core processor?

A. Congratulations! Building your computer can be a lot of work. But it is an excellent way to learn more about computers. You’ll also have a strong sense of accomplishment.

It is understandable that you’d regard the computer as a matter of pride. You want your efforts to pay off.

You didn’t mention how you intend to use the computer. And computers aren’t one size fits all. Some people need more powerful machines than other people do. So I can’t give you a definitive answer. But I can give you some things to think about.

It wasn’t too long ago that dual-core processors started hitting shelves. Now, quad-core chips are coming to market. It won’t be too long before we see even larger multi-core processors.

For those who aren’t familiar with multi-core processors, let me explain. Traditional processors have one processing engine on a chip. Dual-core processors squeeze two engines onto the chip. And you guessed it—quad-core processors have four engines.

A dual-core processor theoretically doubles your computing power. The processor can handle two threads of data simultaneously. So there’s less waiting for tasks to complete. A quad-core chip can handle four threads of data.

As you can see, these processors pack a lot of power. There’s just one hiccup: Most programs aren’t written for multi-core processors. So, the software doesn’t take advantage of additional cores.

Chip manufacturers are pushing multi-core processors. But software developers aren’t keeping up. In fact, some programs will run faster on single-core chips than on dual-core ones. That’s because the software can’t use the second core efficiently.

Hopefully, software manufacturers will catch up soon.

In the meantime, there are advantages to multi-core chips. The chips generate less heat. So you can put them in a smaller box. Also, the chips are more energy efficient. That’s because they use thinner transistors.

There are also situations where you’ll see a performance boost. If you frequently multi-task, you’ll notice a difference. The processor will split the workload. For example, your antivirus program can use one core. Your DVD-burning program can use the other core.

You may also see increased performance if you use your computer for intensive multimedia programs. Gamers may also see improvements.

I’m hesitant to recommend quad-core processors. You’ll pay a premium. Depending on your computer habits, it could be a wasted investment. That extra money could be better spent on RAM and a good video card.

A dual-core processor is more than adequate for most people. These have dropped substantially in price.

Besides, you’ll soon learn one of the advantages of building your own machine. You won’t be afraid to update individual components in the future. So, in the future, you could upgrade the processor. Look at your computer as a work in progress!

134. A browser from Apple
Q. I have recently downloaded and used Safari. I have found that it is faster and more reliable than Firefox or Internet Explorer. Your comments would be appreciated.

A. Here are my comments, in a nutshell: I think Safari is a mighty fine program.

I have used Safari off and on since the beta was released. I, too, believe it is faster than Firefox and Internet Explorer. And I believe it is reliable. However, I think Internet Explorer and Firefox are equally reliable.

According to Apple, Safari downloads pages up to twice as fast as IE. And it says Safari is 60 percent faster than Firefox. Even allowing for typical hype, Safari seems faster.

Safari is still in beta (the testing stage). The final version will be available for Windows and Mac in October. It will be included in the Leopard version of OS X, also due out in October. The Windows version requires XP or Vista.

Safari is a free download from Apple's site. It installed quickly on my powerful Vista system.

There are a few things Windows users will have to accept. In Firefox and IE, you can use Ctrl+Enter to complete addresses. For instance, to go to my site, you would type Komando in the address bar. Then, you would press Ctrl+Enter to complete the address: http://www.komando.com.

Unless I've missed something, you can't do that in Safari. That isn't really burdensome; you can simply enter Komando.com and press enter. But I'm used to using Ctrl+Enter, so it's irritating.

Safari also has little right-button functionality. Again, most everything is there using the left button. But Windows users are used to finding extra menus with the right button. Some will find that irritating.

Safari offers the same advantage as Firefox—it is not part of Windows. Not having its hooks into Windows makes it safer.

Apple touted its security when it released Safari. Experts immediately found security flaws. As far as I know, Apple has fixed them. The company downloads updates to its software automatically. So you shouldn't have to do it yourself.

Safari is available for download through my site.

If you don't want to use a beta product, try Firefox. I have enjoyed using it for ages. And if you're looking to save time, I have keyboard shortcuts. I've even included Safari!

133. Removing files from Vista's Instant Search
Q. I love Vista’s Instant Search feature. But I’m having problems with it. I deleted a bunch of e-mail messages a couple of weeks ago. However, they’re still appearing when I use Instant Search. Is there a way to get rid of them?

A. Instant Search is one of my favorite features in Vista, too. It makes finding e-mail messages and files a snap.

On my machine, Instant Search functions well. When I delete something, it no longer appears in the Instant Search results.

But as we all know, Windows can behave differently on different computers. There could be a couple of reasons you’re seeing deleted e-mail.

First, maybe you haven’t really deleted the e-mail. I don’t mean to insult your intelligence. We all overlook the obvious sometimes!

If you’re using an e-mail program, deleted messages can linger. For example, in Outlook, deleted messages go to the Deleted Items folder. If you don’t empty it, the messages will continue to show in Instant Search.

Empty the Deleted Items folder by right-clicking it and selecting Empty Deleted Items Folder. Other e-mail programs have similar folders. If you’re using a different program, empty its trash folder.

If you’re checking e-mail via the Internet, things are different. Copies of the Web pages containing the e-mail message might be stored in your Web cache.

Now, Instant Search doesn’t index your Web cache by default. But you can customize Instant Search to include your Web cache in the index. Maybe you did that.

Or maybe you are using the advanced options in Instant Search. You can use the advanced options to search non-indexed locations on your computer. This will return items in your Web cache.

So, if you are using Web mail, clear your Web cache. This will remove pages that could contain mail messages.

Fortunately, that’s relatively easy.

In Internet Explorer, click Tools>>Internet Options. On the General tab, click Delete under "Browsing history." Click “Delete files” and “Delete history.”

In Firefox, click Tools>>Options. Click Privacy and Clear Now in the Private Data section. Select Cache and Browsing History. Click Clear Private Data Now.

The e-mail messages should be removed from your hard drive. That means they won’t appear in Instant Search.

If these solutions don’t work, there could be a problem with the Instant Search index.

You can fix that relatively easily, too. But it will take a little time. Click Start>>Control Panel. Double-click Indexing Options. Click Advanced. On the Index Settings tab, click Rebuild. Click OK to confirm.

Rebuilding your index should take care of the problem. Instant Search will re-index all the files on your computer. Files no longer on the computer will be purged from the index.

Hey, did you know that you can save your searches in Vista? That’s a nice bonus for an already great feature.

132. Photographing Fireworks
Q. I bought a digital camera several months ago. I don’t have a lot of experience taking photographs, and I haven’t had much time to explore the camera. I’ve only used it to snap pictures at family gatherings. I want to take some photos of the fireworks on the Fourth of July. Can you give me some pointers? I’ve heard that it can be difficult.

A. Fireworks are among the more difficult things to photograph. But with some pointers, you should be able to get some good shots.

There are several things you will need. A tripod is essential. You’ll be taking long exposures. Without a tripod, you’ll get camera shake.

A remote shutter release is also required. This will prevent the camera from shaking when you release the shutter. Check with your local camera store for one that will work with your camera. Cable releases are better than wireless ones – unless you intend to be in the picture yourself.

Not all cameras will accept a cable release or a remote control. In that case, you can use your camera’s self-timer.

Your camera must also be able to capture fireworks. You really need a digital SLR or an advanced camera that lets you adjust settings.

But you can try a simple point-and-shoot camera. If it’s all you have, you have nothing to lose. Besides, some models feature a fireworks mode. This might work well for you.

You want to use a low ISO setting – 50 or 100. The ISO setting adjusts the light sensitivity. The higher the setting, the more sensitive the sensor.

This may sound counterintuitive. But higher ISO settings result in noisier photographs. Also, longer shutter speeds and low light increase noise.

Turn your camera’s flash off. The fireworks should provide all the light you need. If you can’t turn your flash off, tape a piece of cardboard over it.

If you can, use your camera’s bulb setting. Otherwise, use a one- or two-second shutter speed.

Now, you may think you need a wide aperture since the sky is dark. You don’t. A narrower aperture will work well. I recommend setting the aperture between f/8 and f/16.

The smaller aperture will prevent overexposure of the fireworks. When they become overexposed, they lose their color.

Use manual focus if your camera has it. Focus the camera on the fireworks at the beginning of the show. The fireworks will probably take place in the same section of the sky. So you won’t need to focus throughout the show.

If you’re using a point-and-shoot camera, focusing is more difficult. Fireworks mode should take care of the focus. If you don’t have fireworks mode, set your camera to landscape mode. This will focus at infinity.

If you want the fireworks to fill the entire frame, use a 100mm lens (or its digital equivalent) with an SLR. If you want to capture more of the surroundings, use a wider lens. A normal lens should work for this.

If you’re using a point-and-shoot model, you can adjust the zoom to suit your preference.

Scout your location carefully. Look for objects that might create a distraction in the photo. For example, street lights will be more noticeable. That’s because of the long exposure.

Position yourself upwind of the fireworks. Otherwise, your photos will turn out hazy from the smoke. Likewise, remember that earlier fireworks will be clearer. There will be more smoke as the show goes on.

Take lots of shots. You’ll be more likely to capture some good ones. But save some for the finale. Most shows save the best fireworks for last. And experiment with vertical and horizontal shots.

One of the hardest parts will be anticipating the fireworks. Release the shutter when you hear the fireworks ignite. Let go of the button after the last burst of the fireworks, if you’re using the bulb setting.

Since your camera is relatively new, skim the manual before you go out to shoot. It helps to refresh your memory on how to adjust your camera.

131. Choosing a photo-sharing site
Q. I have used Yahoo! Photos for years. I just learned that they are shutting down. They will transfer my photos to Flickr, Kodak EasyShare Gallery, Shutterfly, Snapfish or Photobucket. Which one has the best free service? I want to be able to share my photos with other people by sending a link.

A. Before I talk about the other photo-sharing sites, let me address what’s happening with Yahoo! Photos.

Yahoo! will begin closing Yahoo! Photos in June. It will focus on Flickr, a photo-sharing site it purchased in 2005.

This is sure to frustrate a lot of long-time users of Yahoo! Photos. But Yahoo! will help its members transition to a new photo-sharing site.

Obviously, Yahoo! would prefer to switch members to Flickr. But, it will offer several other options. You can also select Snapfish, Shutterfly, Kodak EasyShare Gallery or Photobucket.

You must create an account with one of the other sites. Once you verify your Yahoo! information with the site, it transfers your photos.

Now, the move could take some time. This all depends on the site you choose. Your photos will be put in a queue for transfer. The more people transferring, the slower things will be.

Yahoo! says that it will officially close in the fall. So you have some time to choose a new site. But don’t wait too long. When Yahoo! Photos closes, everything will be deleted.

I recommend that you start downloading your photos onto your computer immediately. But you already have them on your hard drive, right?

There could be hiccups with the transfer of your photos to another site. I wouldn’t want to run the risk of losing all of my photos.

Okay, now on to choosing a new photo-sharing site.

Choosing a new photo-sharing service will be a difficult task. They all have different features and restrictions. One isn’t necessarily better than another. It’s a matter of preference.

But it helps to know what you’re getting into before you make the switch. All of the services offer free accounts. I would sign up with all of the services now so you can test them.

The way they work will differ from Yahoo! Photos. But some may be more intuitive to you than others.

I’ve assembled information to help sort out features of the different sites. Keep in mind that this information refers to the free membership option. Many offer a paid service with more options. All of the sites let you invite others to view your photos.

With Flickr, you can upload up to 100 megabytes of photos each month. This refers to bandwidth, not storage; deleting photos won’t increase the amount you can upload.

File size is limited to five megabytes. Only small images are accessible. However, the originals are saved in case you upgrade to Flickr Pro. Also, you’ll only see your 200 most recent photos; if you upgrade your account, you’ll see the rest. Your free account will be deleted after 90 days of inactivity.

Flickr has a strong sense of community. Its users like to comment on others’ work. The photos also have more of an artistic bent.

Shutterfly gives you unlimited storage and no file size limit. It says that it has never deleted a photo. You can create slide shows and add captions to your photos. Of course, Shutterfly promotes products such as prints and calendars.

Snapfish also gives you unlimited storage. High-resolution images are kept for three months so you can make large prints. Then the photos are converted to a lower resolution, suitable for small prints.

Snapfish sells prints and other photo-related products. If you don’t make at least one purchase a year, your account is deleted.

Kodak EasyShare Gallery gives you unlimited storage. It does not specify a limit on file size. Like Snapfish, it deletes your account if you don’t make a purchase once every 12 months.

Photobucket is different from the other photo-sharing sites. It is designed to host images for blogs and auction sites.

Photobucket gives you one gigabyte of storage. You also get 25 gigabytes of bandwidth per month. If your photos are viewed a lot, they may not be available for others to view. Your photos are limited to one megabyte in size.

I hope this information helps. I have more photo tips on my site that you may find helpful:

• Kodak’s Preservation Discs

• Photo recovery programs

• Create a photo slide show screen saver

130. Understanding network equipment
Q. I wanted to know the difference between a print server, router and a hub. Which would be the best choice when setting up a network?

A. All three of these things can be used in a network. Since we're on the subject, I'll throw in switches, too.

Let's look at hubs, switches and routers first. There is overlap among those three. Then I'll explain print servers.

Hubs—These guys are very basic. A hub receives data from network computers, usually via cables. It then distributes the data to all the network's other computers. The fact that the data is addressed to a specific computer on the network is immaterial. It is shared with all of them.

Sending all data to every computer stretches the network's resources. So, if your network runs at 100 megabits, and the hub has 10 ports, each port runs at 10 megabits. If only one computer is sending data, there should be no problem. But if the network is busy, things can slow down. That's why switches are better than hubs.

Switches—These are more sophisticated than hubs. They do essentially the same job, but are much more discriminating. When computer A sends data to computer B, only B gets it. The data is not also sent to computers C, D and E.

Furthermore, lots of traffic does not diminish network resources. On your 100 megabit network, each of the switch's ports runs at 100 megabits. Every bit of data gets the network's full speed. So a switch is much faster and more efficient than a hub.

Routers—At their most basic, routers connect networks to networks. So, say you want Internet access with your home network. The Internet is a giant network—really, a network of networks. You need a router to connect your network to the Internet. The router does that through the modem.

Theoretically, you need a switch or hub, in addition to a router. You might want to send information from one computer to another. But in the real world, routers include switches. Routers are multi-talented. They can direct data between the network's computers. And they can send data over the Internet.

Print servers—These machines are fundamentally different. They are middlemen on the network. On one side, a print server connects to a printer. On the other, it connects to a router/switch. It makes communication between the computers and printer possible.

A print server is handy, but not essential. A printer can also be connected to a computer. Through that computer, other network computers can access the printer. However, if that computer is turned off, the printer is inaccessible. Sometimes printers are connected directly to the router. In that case, too, a print server is not necessary.

So, let's address your last question. What is best for your network? Well, if you want Internet access, you need a router. Assuming you have multiple computers, you also need a hub or switch. Your best bet is a router that includes a switch.

How about a print server? That would simplify matters, certainly. But it isn't crucial. You might connect the printer to the router. That's assuming they're located near one another. And they need compatible connections. Routers take Ethernet and USB connections. Most printers have USB, and some Ethernet. If you're buying new equipment, double-check.

If you cannot connect to the router, you can use a network computer. That means you have to establish printer sharing in the computer. I have explanations for Windows XP and Vista on my site.

My first choice would be a connection to the router. If that were out, I'd go for a print server. The network computer would be my last choice. That arrangement works well, but the computer has to be on.

129. Easy ways to back up data
Kim, I am stationed in Iraq. I bought an external hard drive to back up my laptop. Conditions here are unpredictable, and I don't want to lose information. I'm using Windows XP, but am unable to back up the whole system. Can you direct me?

Most laptops probably are not designed for a war zone. One too many shakes or drops might lead to an unbootable computer. If your hard drive is damaged, you may well lose data.

A good backup can preserve priceless documents, photos and other files. Fortunately, Windows XP includes its own backup program.

The backup utility is not installed by default by XP Home Edition. However, it is on the installation disc. I have instructions for installing the backup utility on my site.

To find the backup program, click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>System Tools>>Backup. The Backup or Restore Wizard will prompt you to read from or save to a backup file. Select "Back up files and settings." Click Next. If you want to back up everything, select "All information on this computer." Then click Next.

You'll be prompted for the location of the backup. If your external drive is connected, it should show up in the list. Otherwise, click the Browse button to help Windows find it.

You can also enter a name for the backup. This will be the name of the file saved to your external drive. Click Next. Then click Finish on the next screen. The backup may take a while, but that's all there is to it.

If your laptop is destroyed, you can use your backup file on another Windows computer. On the replacement computer, start the Backup and Restore Wizard. At the first prompt, select "Restore files and settings."

I don't have enough information to speculate on why you can't back up your entire system. For instance, I don't know which program you're using. Many external hard drives come with a free backup program.

At any rate, I wouldn't back up everything. Instead, I would make an image (clone) of the hard drive. For the most part, Windows' built-in tools do not allow images. But, you could use programs such as Norton Ghost ($70) and Acronis True Image Home ($50).

Supplement your image with a backup of your personal files, e-mail and system settings. There is a setting to do that in Windows XP's backup program. When the Backup or Restore Wizard prompts you for what to back up, select "My documents and settings."

If you're using the computer daily, schedule a backup every day. That is easy in the Windows Backup utility.

One potential complication is the transition from Windows XP to Vista. If you replace your computer, it will probably include Vista. Windows Vista uses a different backup/restore system.

Fortunately, Microsoft offers a workaround for exactly this scenario. It's called Windows NT Backup–Restore Utility. The program allows Vista to read backup files created by XP. You can find it on the Microsoft Download Center site.

The Windows XP backup utility encodes all of your data into a single file. Should the file be lost or corrupted, you might lose your entire backup. If you have space to spare, make an alternate backup.

You could copy and paste important files to your external hard drive. The My Documents folder is a good candidate for copying. Simple copies remain accessible without the aid of a backup or recovery program.

If you copy and paste, read my tip on choosing which types of files to back up.

127. Finding a DVR without a subscription
Q. I've recently purchased a TV with a digital tuner so I can receive over-the-air digital broadcasts. However, I don't have a means to record the digital signal. Does anyone sell a stand-alone digital video recorder that doesn't require a monthly subscription fee like Tivo does? I fail to see why a telephone connection and a service fee are necessary to record broadcast digital signals. Thank you for your help. I enjoy your radio show and your e-mail newsletters very much.

A. Before we talk about digital video recorders (DVRs), let me explain digital television. Traditionally, stations broadcast analog signals. But, starting in 2009, all television broadcasts will be digital. The FCC mandated the change.

As of March 1, 2007, all new televisions sold must contain a digital tuner. This is intended to ease the transition to digital broadcasts. You will be able to purchase boxes to convert digital signals to analog for older sets.

Don’t confuse digital television with high-definition television (HDTV). Digital television simply means that the data is sent in a stream of ones and zeroes. Analog signals are sent as waves. All HDTV sets use digital technology. But not all digital tuners are high definition.

DVRs like TiVo include a TV tuner card. They don’t use your television’s tuner. DVRs and newer televisions should have analog and digital inputs/outputs. You don’t need to use a digital connection to use a DVR with your television. But digital connections give a better picture.

In the United States, we use ATSC (Advanced Television Systems Committee) standards for digital broadcasting. All you need to know is that tuners in DVRs and televisions should handle ATSC.

On to DVRs! Most, if not all, standalone digital video recorders (DVRs) require a monthly subscription. The subscription gives you access to television guides. The television guide is accessed through your phone line or via the Internet.

Television guides help schedule recordings. You can get by without a television guide if you can record shows manually. However, many DVRs lack that manual ability.

You can buy a DVR from TiVo for as little as $50. Monthly subscriptions run $13 to $20, depending on your service contract.

Regardless, TiVo says its current DVRs are not compatible with over-the-air signals. So, even if you paid for the service, you’d have difficulties.

Are you handy with computers? You could always create your own DVR from a spare computer. I have a column that tells you how to do it. It is easy and inexpensive.

You’ll find ATSC tuners for your computer that have digital outputs. A tuner allows you to record one channel while watching another.

There is another option. You’ll find DVD recorders with built-in hard drives. These are essentially combination DVD recorders and DVRs. But these often do not include TV tuners. So you could not record one show while watching another.

Also, I was unable to find one with digital inputs. They have component inputs and outputs. This is the best you’ll get when it comes to analog. You will find ones with HDMI outputs, which are digital. These will upconvert the outgoing signal. I’m skeptical about this technology.

If you buy one of these recorders, research it carefully. Make sure you understand what features are available. And pick one with a free television guide to simplify the recording process.

Toshiba makes the RD-XS35. The list price is $400, but I saw it online for $300. It has a 160-gigabyte hard drive and a DVD-R/RW drive.

You can record shows, watch a recording that’s in progress and pause live TV. With the TV program guide, you get an eight-day program listing and can search by keyword.

Pioneer sells the DVR-640H-S for $400. It has features similar to the Toshiba model, including a 160GB hard drive and a DVD-R/RW drive. However, there is no television guide.

Panasonic sells the DMR-EH55S DVD recorder for $500. It features a 200GB hard drive and the free TV Guide service. You get eight days of listings and can search by keyword. You can watch recordings that are in progress or watch a different show while one is recording.

Speaking of DVRs, what does yours know about you?

126. Finding a computer with software
Q. My husband and I have been looking at computers. We saw a Lenovo desktop that seemed like a good deal. But we could not find whether the software included Microsoft Office. The salesman told us it did not. But there was no indication of any other word processing software on the computer. The salesman said we would have to purchase Microsoft Office separately. He said the computer included WordPad. In the past, we have never had to purchase office programs separately. My question: How does one find out the software that is included with a computer? We have tried looking on the Internet, but that information seems difficult to find. Thank you so much! Your show is VERY enlightening!

A. I feel your pain, sister! Your note reminds me of the last time I looked at cell phone plans.

I went to Lenovo’s site and looked at desktops. I saw none with Microsoft Office preloaded. Lenovo offers Office as an extra-cost accessory.

Office comes in a number of configurations and prices. It can easily run to $500. You will pay for it, even if it is included on a computer.

Many computer makers do throw in a word processing/spreadsheet/ presentation package. For instance, I recently bought seven computers from Gateway. They included Microsoft’s Works Suite. Sometimes Corel’s WordPerfect is included with computers. These are much less expensive than Microsoft Office. But you’re still paying for them.

Windows does include its own word processor—WordPad. It is usable, but much less so than Office. I wouldn’t want to rely on it. Windows also includes Notepad, a minimal text editor. It offers even less than WordPad.

I would recommend that you buy a computer and software separately, if necessary. I don’t think the software is a big deal.

You have several software options. If you own an older Office package, it will run on your new computer. But it will have to be installed on the computer. So you need the disc.

Alternatively, you could purchase the Works Suite or Corel’s WordPerfect package. Both run less than $100 on the Internet. Or download OpenOffice. That is free and quite complete. (Note: Some sites sell OpenOffice. I have had numerous complaints about this. OpenOffice is available FREE. Please do not complain if you instead pay.)

There are also free word processors and spreadsheets online. Google and ThinkFree are two such providers. You use those programs online, rather than on your computer. Your documents can be saved online or on your computer.

If you are buying a computer, don’t be swayed by price alone. You may find either XP or Vista machines available. A Vista machine will give you more use before it is obsolete. But it also requires more horsepower, so you’ll pay more. Here are the minimum specs I recommend:

Windows XP
Microprocessor – AMD Athlon, or Intel Pentium, Core Duo or Core 2 Duo
Memory – 512 megabytes of RAM
Graphics – 128MB of RAM
Hard drive – 60 gigabytes

Windows Vista
Microprocessor – AMD Athlon, or Intel Pentium, Core Duo or Core 2 Duo
Memory – 1GB of RAM
Graphics – 256MB of RAM
Hard Drive – 100GB

Are you editing video or playing cutting edge games? Then, double the amount of RAM. You will see machines that are much less powerful than my recommendations. They will work. But they’re likely to be slow. However, you may find that a worthwhile tradeoff for the money saved.

More than a few people are confused by the various Vista versions. I can clarify that. I also have more information on microprocessors.

125. Photographing documents
Q. I have two digital cameras: a Fuji E-900 and a Fuji E-550. Some cameras apparently have a setting for photos of documents. I’m not sure if my cameras have this feature. Can you tell me what I should be looking for on the dial?

A. The scene mode you’re describing is Copy. It is specially designed for documents. However, your cameras do not include a Copy mode.

That’s because they were designed for more advanced users. Modes, on the other hand, are intended for beginners.

But that doesn’t mean you can’t photograph documents. Modes simply optimize the settings for a specific situation. You can manipulate your camera’s settings yourself.

You’ll probably need to do some experimenting. That’s one of the joys of digital cameras: You can explore your camera’s settings at no expense. Of course, when you get the settings right, it makes things easier in the future.

First, you should set up the document properly. If you have some kind of document holder, that would work best. Failing that, lay the document flat on a table.

Next, set up the lighting. Avoid fluorescent lights. They flicker on and off rapidly. Sooner or later, the camera will snap a picture while the light is off.

The lighting should be between the camera and the document. If you’re using multiple lights, make sure the bulbs are the same. This is necessary to maintain the same color balance.

Avoid placing lighting sources behind the camera. Otherwise, you will end up with shadows on the document.

You’ll probably want to use some kind of tripod to stabilize the camera. A desktop model will be more convenient than larger tripods if you’re using a document stand.

If you lay the document flat, look for a larger tripod that allows you to reverse the center column. That way, you can take pictures with the camera pointing down. The tripod legs won’t get in the way. These tripods are relatively expensive. But they’re worth the cost.

Now, you’re ready to look at the camera settings. Turn off the flash. There won’t be enough time for the light to disperse before the shutter opens. So, the text could be washed out. Also, if you’re photographing old documents, the flash could damage them.

You’ll want to set most of the controls manually. Use a small aperture (large f-numbers mean smaller apertures). Use aperture priority mode. The camera will determine the ideal shutter speed. The small aperture will give you crisp, well-focused images.

Because you’re using a narrower aperture, the shutter speed will be relatively slow. Avoid camera shake. The tripod will help. But you can also shake the camera when you press the shutter release. So use the timer feature.

You’ll probably need to experiment to find the best white balance. This will vary, based on the type of lighting.

Sometimes, cameras take pictures that fade at the edges. If you encounter this, try reducing the aperture. And avoid using macro telephoto. If fade continues, leave space around the document in the photo. Use software to crop this space out.

You may also be interested in learning about macro photography. Macro lenses let you focus on close objects. I have a tip that explains how it works. Macro photography is best done with a digital SLR.

124. Coping with daylight-saving time
Q. I’ve heard that there is going to be a big problem when we switch to daylight-saving time this year. Since it is happening earlier, computers aren’t going to be able to handle the change. Will this affect computers everywhere? And what about our home computers? I’m worried.

A. This is a bit reminiscent of the Y2K crisis. But don’t start hoarding water and canned goods! Most people have nothing to worry about.

This year, daylight-saving time will begin three weeks earlier on March 11. It will also end a week later. This is enough to confuse most people.

But it has the potential to create troubles with your computer. Computers automatically adjust their clock to daylight-saving time. However, the date that daylight-saving time kicks in is programmed into the software.

Daylight-saving time was changed due to the 2005 Energy Policy Act. So your computer could have the incorrect date to switch.

This is inconvenient. But you could probably work around it. However, Microsoft has already pushed out a patch for Windows XP. So if you have XP, and it’s updated, you’re OK. If you haven’t updated XP lately, now is a good time.

I know I have some listeners who use Windows Vista and Office 2007. The change was built in to both. So you don’t have to worry about it.

Most software uses the Windows clock, so your software should be fine, too. But if you’re uncertain, check with manufacturers for a patch.

The Microsoft patch requires Windows XP Service Pack 2. If you’re still on Service Pack 1, you’re out of luck. You should upgrade to Service Pack 2.

Businesses could be hit hard by the switch. They often have custom systems that will need to be updated. But that is unlikely to have serious impacts on individuals.

Now, there are a couple of things you should consider. For three weeks after March 11, you’ll want to be careful when making appointments via Outlook. Even though your calendar is correct, the other party’s might not be. Call to confirm if in doubt.

Other gadgets around the house may also have problems. You’re probably used to changing the dates manually. But if they update automatically for daylight-saving time, contact the manufacturer. There may be patches to fix them.

You should also pay attention to the calendar on your phone, handheld or smartphone. These will likely need patches. Check your manufacturer’s support site.

To find out if you need to update Windows or your Windows phone, visit Microsoft’s site.

123. Buying a computer to edit video
Q. I'm an aspiring writer/director and I have shot a high definition video. I want to build or buy a computer for video editing. I will be using Adobe Premiere Pro. The computer should render and edit at a fast pace. My budget is under $2,000, and I don't want an Apple. I'm curious about which processor, video card and amount of RAM you suggest. Thanks, and keep up the great show!

A. Generally, I don’t recommend high-end computers. Most people spend their time with office programs or surfing. Neither requires top-notch machines.

Your case is different. Video editing requires either horsepower or patience. You can edit video on a budget machine. But you’ll spend a lot of time twiddling your thumbs.

Fortunately, the competition in the computer business is really fierce. That holds down prices and forces powerful components to market. You can get a killer desktop for less than $2,000. Laptops cost more than desktops, but a laptop is probably doable, too.

I can’t recommend individual components, since I don’t test them. Stick with name brands and you’ll be OK.

Here is what I recommend for an excellent editing machine:

• Microprocessor – AMD dual-core Athlon or Intel Core 2 Duo. Both of these chips rip. I’d stay near the top of the line. For AMD, that would be an Athlon 64 X2 4800+ or higher. For Intel, I recommend a Core 2 Duo E6600 or higher. In magazine tests, the Core 2 Duo is faster. But I doubt you would notice much difference. Buy on price.

• System Memory – 2 gigabytes of RAM. I wouldn’t worry much about the RAM’s speed. There are differences, but they are not significant.

• Video card – 256 megabytes of RAM. Either ATI or Nvidia-equipped cards are fine.

• Operating system – Microsoft Vista. Machines equipped with Windows XP are still on the shelves. XP works well. But Vista is more modern and will be viable longer. I have information about Vista versions on my site.

• Hard drive – Video files are big. And you need lots of space to edit them. Get the biggest hard drive you can afford. Remember, you can install several hard drives in most desktops. Your budget may limit you here. But storage space is important for video editing. You could start with one drive and add more later. External hard drives are more convenient but more expensive. They’ll probably be slower, too.

• Monitor – If you have a good monitor, stick with it. That will save you some money. If not, you can get a large flat panel for a few hundred dollars. Check the response time. I’d look for one under 12 milliseconds (ms). That should ensure that the monitor can handle motion well.

• Other stuff – Be sure to get a FireWire port. Most camcorders use them to transfer video to the computer. Front USB ports are nice. You’ll need an audio system. That should be a given on a high-end machine.

Should you buy a computer, or build your own? I doubt that you would save much money by building your own. And you might prefer to spend that time editing video. However, builders get exactly the components they want. And they do not fear opening the box for repairs or modifications. I generally build my personal machines.

122. Which programs will run on Vista?
Q. How can I tell if a program that runs on Windows XP will be compatible with the new Vista operating system? I need to buy a second PC for my home, and I was thinking about a Vista machine. I don't know if my expensive software (which runs well on XP) will run properly on Vista. Please let me know!

A. I can’t give you definitive information, since I don’t know what your programs are. We switched to Vista in January, and found compatibility was a mixed bag.

Most programs we use made the switch without problems. For example, Firefox runs well on Vista. And Microsoft products, including the ubiquitous Office suite, are also good bets.

On the other hand, our Web site management program is dicey. It works on some machines, and doesn’t on others. We’ve also had minor problems with Adobe’s Dreamweaver.

Although User Account Control is a security feature, I don't consider it terribly important. You can disable it. I have instructions on my site.

Windows Vista includes Program Compatibility Wizard to help run uncooperative older programs. However, it was not helpful for us.

If there is any doubt, and these programs are important, stick with XP. Get a powerful machine. That way, you can upgrade to Vista later if you like.

121. Building a Web site from a template
Q. I need a Web site that isn’t expensive to build or maintain. I want to include pictures, links and text. I also need to be listed in search engines. I own a small real estate brokerage and need to compete with larger brokers.

A. Yesterday, I told you how to password-protect your family Web site. I also promised I would offer help on building a Web site. So today, I’ll address this question on building a small-business site. Most of the lessons here apply to a family Web site, too.

For many people, the thought of building a Web site can be overwhelming. But you’ll find plenty of templates and help online.

Programs like FrontPage and Dreamweaver include templates. These should be installed when you load the software on your computer. When you open the program and create a new site, you’ll have the option of basing the site on an existing template.

These templates will get you well on your way. They’ll provide the layout of your Web pages. They also include navigational tools and other page elements.

Of course, you’ll need to add your own content and links.

Before you start work, you’ll want to familiarize yourself with HTML. You can buy a book for beginners. Or, you can visit a Web site that provides tutorials. Fortunately, HTML (Hyper-Text Markup Language) is easy to learn. I have a tip on my site that links to some good tutorials.

You may not like some of the colors or other parts of the templates. These things can be altered fairly easily.

Not all HTML editors include templates. In that case, you can download templates online. A template for an HTML page will be compatible with all HTML editors.

There are many sites that offer templates. Some charge upwards of $50 for a template. Since you will likely need to alter the template, I wouldn’t pay for it.

You can find many free templates online. Free Layouts, Open Source Web Design and Open Web Design all offer free templates.

Most Web hosts also offer templates or tools to get you started. You may find this preferable to hunting down a template. The tools will help you design your pages and upload content with minimal effort.

You may be tempted by a flashy look. I agree that a site should look nice. But don’t sacrifice functionality. Pages should be easy to navigate, with clearly marked elements.

Also, heavy graphics can make a site sluggish and will eat up your bandwidth. Go for a sleek, streamlined template.

If you’re creating a site for your small business, you don’t want to spend a lot of time building and maintaining it. And you definitely don’t want to invest time becoming an HTML expert. So look for hosting plans geared to your needs. I have a column that covers this.

Also, you want a business site to have good placement in search sites. I have a tip on that. And I have a Cool Site that will offer more assistance.

120. Protecting data before PC repair
Q. I am taking my laptop to the store for an Ethernet card. I want to keep my personal data secure. Will a guest account and password protect my personal stuff?

A. Generally, a guest account will keep people out of your private documents. But I wouldn’t count on it in your case. A knowledgeable technician could crack your Windows password easily.

Besides, a guest account doesn’t allow you to install software. The Ethernet card will probably require software installation.

So the person installing the card will need administrative privileges. An administrator can get into all the files on a computer.

Why not install the card yourself? On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10, this is about a ½. Buy a card that slides into the PCMCIA slot on the side of the computer.

Of course, you will need to install its software. That should be a snap, too.

If you have a built-in Ethernet connection, you must disable it. Click Start>>Control Panel and double-click System. Open the Hardware tab and click Device Manager.

Expand Network Adapters by clicking the “+” sign beside it in the list. You’ll need to determine which entry is for your Ethernet card. For example, my computer lists Realtek RTL8139 PCI Fast Ethernet NIC. You may also have a wireless card listed here.

When you find the card, right-click it. Select Disable and click OK to confirm. Close Device Manager and then click OK. You can now install the new Ethernet card.

If you have the store install the card, encrypt your files. Modern encryption is very strong. It will keep prying eyes out of your data.

Encryption basically scrambles the data. You assign a passcode that will descramble the data. I have a column on my site that explains encryption in greater depth.

There are a number of programs that will encrypt your data. Cryptainer LE is a free one. It will let you encrypt up to 25 MB of data. That’s quite a bit, but you may need more.

In that case, try TrueCrypt. It allows you to encrypt an entire partition on your hard drive. Again, it’s free.

And, if you take your computer in to the shop, back up your data first. I have more advice to prepare your computer before you take it in.

119. Playing DVDs in Windows Vista
Q. Did you notice that you must purchase a codec to play DVDs in Windows Vista Enterprise? I understand there are two Vista versions that include codecs. I thought Enterprise edition is the top-of-the-line version. I don't want to have to buy more software. How can I play DVDs on my computer?

A. First off, Enterprise is not the top-of-the-line version. Ultimate is, well, the ultimate version of Vista. It includes the features found in Enterprise and Home Premium.

Home Basic and Home Premium are geared toward home users. Business and Enterprise are aimed at business users. Ultimate is suitable for both home and business. All include Windows Media Player.

For more on the versions of Vista, visit my site.

In order to play DVDs using Windows Media Player, you need the correct codec. Codec is short for compressor/decompressor.

Vista Home Premium and Ultimate include a codec. With other Vista versions, you need to find one. People encountered this same problem in earlier versions of Windows.

As you noticed, vendors are happy to sell you a codec. But you’ll have to shell out $15 or $20.

Many manufacturers supply a DVD codec with their DVD drives. But Vista Enterprise requires a clean installation. So anything on the computer, including the codec, would have been erased. You could re-install the codec if you still have the DVD software. The manufacturer also may have the codec on its site. Both assume the codec works on Vista.

Additionally, you may find a free codec on the Internet. But this isn’t the most desirable route. You’ll come across sites that could install malware.

Microsoft advises against installing codecs that aren’t listed on WMPlugins.com. They could cause problems with Windows Media Player.

I recommend downloading a program that has codecs built in. Players that handle DVDs include VLC Media Player and Media Player Classic. Both are free.

If you download one of these programs, you’ll have to use it to watch DVDs. But you might prefer that to spending money on a codec.

Coming up in tomorrow's Tip: Protecting data before PC repair.

The video store may soon be a thing of the past. That’s thanks to movie download services. Tune in to tomorrow's Kim Komando Digital Minute to learn about the latest developments. To find out how to listen to my Minute, visit my site.

I hope you've found this Vista tip helpful. Look for more tips about Windows Vista on my site.

118. New features in Windows Vista
Q. I've seen online photos of Windows Vista, and it is attractive. But I don't really think that it's worth upgrading just for a new look. What's really different about the new Windows?

A. There is certainly a lot of hype surrounding Windows Vista. Do flourishes like transparencies and fade effects improve productivity? Maybe not, but the new version of Windows is more than a mere repaint. I'll give you a few examples of what's new. There is a lot to see.

Gadgets

When you start up Vista, the first thing you'll notice is the new Windows Sidebar. As the name suggests, it sits unobtrusively on the side of the screen. You can use it to open Gadgets, miniature programs that handle simple tasks.

Vista comes pre-packed with several Gadgets. You can keep an eye on news headlines, stocks and the weather. My current favorite is the CPU meter, which reveals how hard the processor is working and how much RAM is in use.

There is a growing bank of additional Gadgets on Microsoft's Web site. Anyone with the right skills can create a Gadget and post it on the site.

Parental Controls

Another significant addition is Parental Controls. It covers all the basics without the need for extra software. I think the most popular feature will be time limit settings for kids' accounts. XP could manage this, but only with the aid of some command-prompt acrobatics.

Parental Controls also allows you to restrict computer games based on their ESRB ratings. More details on these ratings are in my previous tip about choosing appropriate games. You can even block specific games by title.

You get the same degree of control over which programs your children can use. There are other options for the Internet, which is too useful to simply block. Parental Controls includes a Web content filter that can block sites containing pornography, drugs, hate speech and other inappropriate material. The filter works with any Web browser.

Parental Controls offers activity reports to keep you informed. You can see which programs the kids use, which sites they visit and what they download.

Small but useful

Among Vista's new visual effects are some genuinely helpful details. One example is Live Icons. As you browse your documents, you'll see most as miniature true-to-life previews. You don't have to open a document to see if it's the one you want. This is an improvement over what XP does with only photos.

Vista also features some easy ways to sort and switch between all your open programs and files. Flip 3D is an example. It shows all your open windows as snapshots in three-dimensional space. Simply click on the one you want to work with.

There are just too many enhancements and new features to discuss here. You can read about other great features like built-in desktop search, easier backups and DVD burning in my recent column.

You can see some of Vista in action through Microsoft's Test Drive site. I mentioned it recently in my weekend newsletter. In case you missed it, here's the address:
www.windowsvistatestdrive.com

117. Moving up from Windows 98 to Vista
Q. I’m using Windows 98. My computer is still dependable, but I know it is on borrowed time. I plan to purchase a new computer with Windows Vista. How do I transfer my files to the new PC? Can an old dummy like me do it, or should I take it to a shop?

A. You don’t sound like a dummy to me. So I assume that was a joke!

Because your machine is so old, your options may be limited. I just added seven new Vista machines in my office. I used Windows Easy Transfer, which involves a cable between the machines. The transfer is supposed to be automatic. Generally, it worked well. I discussed that in my Killer Tip in the Jan. 27 newsletter.

That system only works for Windows XP and Vista, though. Microsoft considers Windows 98 obsolete.

However, Laplink’s PCMover should work. According to Laplink, PCMover works with both Windows 98 and Vista.

Other programs do not show Vista capability. But they might by the time you’re ready to buy. So, check out CA Desktop Migrator ($30), Nova Intellimover ($50) and Stomp Easy PC Transfer ($40).

Generally, you use a USB bridge cable or Ethernet crossover cable to connect the machines. I have more information about them on my site.

Some of these transfer programs can also burn CDs. All of them save your settings. Some can transfer programs and data files; others, just your data. Your new computer will probably have free programs. So you may not need the old ones.

If none of this works, you can burn a CD yourself. That’s assuming you have a burner on the 98 machine, of course. Your new computer will probably have a DVD drive. It will handle CDs, too.

If you burn a CD yourself, you’ll probably lose your settings. But that may not be important to you.

Another possibility is a USB flash drive. Windows 98 does not include drivers for flash drives. So be sure to buy a flash drive that includes drivers for 98. Transfer your data to the flash drive, then plug it into the new computer.

You could do the same thing with an external hard drive. Again, be sure it works on both 98 and Vista.

Still stumped? How about transferring your files over the Internet? Numerous sites will accept such files. Then you can download them to your new machine. Three sites to consider are Streamload, Box.net and Omnidrive. All offer free space.

In the old days, we used floppies to do this job. But your new computer probably will not have a floppy drive. Even if it does, this method would be beyond tedious. Today’s files are just too big for floppies.

Of course, the store could transfer your data. They’ll be pushing hard to sell Vista machines, so maybe you can get a deal. Try driving a bargain. The sales people probably have some negotiating room.

Be sure you get a machine with enough horsepower. My new machines have 2 gigabytes of RAM, Core 2 Duo chips and video cards with 256 megabytes of RAM. With a monitor, that would probably cost you between $1,500 and $2,000, depending on features. My machines are running Windows Vista and Microsoft Office 2007 very well.

If cost is an issue, you could get by with 1GB of RAM, a video card with 128MB of RAM and a less expensive chip. You could have minor performance issues, however, if other programs are power hungry.

If your machine has the power, Vista runs in its Aero mode. Microsoft describes this as a glassy look. That seems to be a good description. The difference in look between Vista and XP is striking. Part of that is also attributable to Office 2007.

Some of my business programs struggle with Vista, so I’m still using XP for them. I’m always struck by XP’s plainness when I use it. Vista will spoil you.

We have used the new machines for more than a week. So far, there have been no crashes. That’s not surprising—our XP machines rarely crash. So it looks like Microsoft has a handle on stability.

Visit my site for more information on upgrading to Vista.

116. Finding a decent scanner.
Q. Kim, I need to find a decent scanner. I have a lot of old photos I would like to digitize. I would also like to reduce some of the clutter in my office. So I have decided to do away with some of the paper by scanning it in. I don't know much about scanners, so I don't know what I should look for when I'm shopping.

A. I'll bet one of your New Year's resolutions is to become more organized. Well, a scanner can help you with this.

Since you want to scan both paperwork and photos, you'll need a versatile scanner. Although you can buy models for less than $100, you will be better off paying more for some extra features.

I would consider your needs for scanning photos first. I always recommend that people scan negatives rather than actual photos. This will give you a much better tonal range when you print them. So if you have negatives, buy a machine that can scan them.

Some manufacturers have attachments that allow you to scan film. Others have dedicated trays or slots for film. They should all accommodate 35mm film. If you use different types of film, check compatibility before you buy.

When you scan film, you need a scanner with a high resolution. That's because the negatives are so small. You'll want to be able to enlarge them. So I recommend a scanner with a resolution greater than 2,600 dpi, or dots per inch.

Some scanners offer interpolated or digital resolution. You can ignore this. Instead, look at the optical resolution. This will give you more accurate results. With interpolated resolution, the scanner looks at surrounding pixels. It then calculates the colors for missing pixels. In other words, it guesses. Optical resolution only records what is there.

If you're not scanning film, you don't need such a high resolution. That's because you'll be limited by your computer monitor or printer. If you won't be enlarging many of your photos, you can get away with 300 dpi to get decent prints. If you'll be enlarging your photos, go for a higher resolution like 600 or 1200 dpi.

Also pay attention to optical density. This is measured on a scale of zero to four. The higher the number, the more detail you'll see in highlights and shadows. Unfortunately, the scale is not standard from manufacturer to manufacturer. So it is best suited for comparing scanners made by the same manufacturer.

Color depth is another important consideration. I would aim for 24-bit color depth. This is true color. Higher depths are available, but you may not notice any difference.

If you buy a scanner that is suitable for photos and/or film, it should do well with documents. However, there is one addition I would make: an automatic document feeder.

You can load up papers in the feeder and hit scan. You don't need to worry about doing them individually. It is a real time saver. Of course, these feeders have different capacities. I think a 50-sheet feeder is reasonable.

Finally, look at the scanner's software. You want corrective features. This will help remove scratches, dust and fingerprints from scans. It can also help correct exposure problems. Otherwise, you'll need additional software to make the changes manually.

You may also want OCR (optical character recognition) software. These programs turn paper documents into editable files. That's handy if you don't have digital versions of documents.

Good luck with your project! Just keep in mind that it is difficult to get good results with a scanner. So take the time to learn to use it.

Once you scan in your photos, you may need to do some touch up work. I have links to some free photo-editing programs on my site.

Also, if you're into scrapbooking, read my buying guide on large-format scanners. One of these scanners can help you preserve all your hard work.

115. Hard drive warning messages signal trouble
Q. On boot up, I get a message: "Smart failure predicted on primary slave. Warning: immediately backup your data and replace your hard disk drive. A failure may be imminent." The warning first appeared about a month ago when I used this drive as my primary drive. I installed another one, which is now my primary drive. Where does this message come from? Is the warning real?

A. Yes, this warning is very real.

Modern hard drives have built-in monitoring tools. These tools are referred to as S.M.A.R.T., or Self-Monitoring Analysis and Reporting Technology.

These tools look at the internal workings of a hard drive. When they detect a problem, you should get a warning.

Any number of things can trigger a warning message. It could be a result of overheating inside the drive. Or, it could have to do with the time it takes the hard drive to spin up.

When you receive a warning like this, act fast. Back up your data immediately. Of course, you should already be doing this.

I would not continue to use the drive. It could die at any time. Hard drives are relatively cheap. Plus you can replace a hard drive fairly easily. I have instructions on my site.

I sometimes receive questions about hard drive monitoring tools. It is nice to have a warning before things go amiss.

However, I wouldn't rely on them to protect my data. Why? There are two kinds of hard drive failures. The first is predictable. This is what S.M.A.R.T. helps detect.

The second is unpredictable. You could drop your laptop. Or something inside your machine could fry your hard drive. When this happens, it is too late to protect your data.

Also, there are problems with S.M.A.R.T. Not all hard drives and motherboards support it.

And the technology relies on several sensors. Legally, a manufacturer could include only one type of sensor and claim S.M.A.R.T. compliance. If so, you might get a warning on specific kinds of failures. Others would come out of the blue.

S.M.A.R.T. isn't the only warning service. I have two programs on my site that also will watch your hard drive. They take information directly from the drive.

• HDD Health

• HD Tune

114. Recovering files from a hard drive
Q. My son died this year. Somebody removed his personal files and the music he was writing. Is there a way to retrieve those files? Also, can I tell who deleted the files? It is important to prove that this person removed the songs. I'd like to get them back so the members of his band can finish them in his honor.

A. I'm sorry for your loss. I'm sure it must be difficult for you.

Unfortunately, I know of no way to tell who deleted the files. It is very doubtful that the computer would log that information. However, you probably can recover some or all of the files.

When files are deleted, they're not actually removed. The link to the file is broken. Windows can no longer find the file. Eventually, the file may be overwritten by other data.

So, you want to proceed with caution. If you use the computer at all, there is a good chance you will overwrite some of the data you're trying to recover.

I have some programs on my site that will help you recover deleted files. There's FreeUndelete, Undelete Plus and PC Inspector File Recovery. I've tried them all. They all work. However, some may be better than others.

I recommend you download one of the programs onto a USB thumb drive. That way, you can plug it into your son's computer. Downloading a program to the hard drive could overwrite his data.

You can run the program from the thumb drive. It will return a list of deleted files on the drive. Some programs will tell you the condition of the files. Then, you'll have the option of recovering some or all of them.

I recommend that you also use an external hard drive. Recover the files to the external drive. You shouldn't write to the hard drive until you've recovered everything.

When you finish the recovery, move the drive to another computer. Sort the files. Some may be gibberish; others may be incomplete. But hopefully, you'll be successful.

All this may be more than you want to tackle. In that case, consider a data recovery service. Such services can be very expensive. Recovering the data likely would run into the hundreds of dollars.

You should be able to find local file recovery specialists. If not, plenty are on the Internet. Do some cost comparison.

The recovery specialists will probably examine the drive first. They'll provide you with a list of recoverable files. In most cases, you only pay for the files you want. But, since the computer isn't yours, this could be guesswork.