Barefoot Bay Computer Club

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170.Interlaced video and still shots
Q. I breed, show, train and sell horses for dressage and show jumping. Good videos are important for my marketing, and I often take still captures from the videos. I have a Mini DV camcorder. Stills captured from the interlaced video are not good. I've even used software to enhance them. Would stills captured from an HD camcorder be any better?

A. Before I answer your question, let me explain interlaced video. Video generally plays at a rate of 30 frames per second.

But interlaced video breaks each frame into two fields. One field covers the odd-numbered lines of the frame. The other holds the even-numbered lines. When played back, the two fields give the impression of a single frame. So, there are 60 fields in each second of interlaced video.

In comparison, progressive video captures the entire scene on a single frame. So one second of a progressive video is 30 frames.

Because of the way interlaced video works, good stills are difficult. You'll see lines and jagged edges.

To make matters worse, camcorders require less resolution than still cameras. So, any picture taken with a camcorder—or from a video shot with one—will likely be subpar.

Also, camcorders often have smaller sensors than still cameras. Sensor size plays an important role in the quality of a photograph.

For example, a 5-megapixel camera with a large sensor may take better photos than a 7-megapixel camera with a small sensor. You'll see less noise in the images.

A high-definition camcorder may improve things. The sensor of a high-definition camcorder is likely to be larger than one in a standard-definition model. In fact, some manufacturers use the same sensors used in digital SLRs. These are bigger than sensors in point-and-shoot cameras.

High-definition camcorders shoot either interlaced or progressive video. You want progressive video. Otherwise, you'll be right back where you started.

Personally, I wouldn't mess around trying to capture stills from videos. After all, this is your business. You want high-quality photos. They will improve your business' image (No pun intended!).

Rather, use a camcorder to take videos of the horses. And yes, a high-definition camcorder will yield better results. But use a quality digital camera to capture the still shots. You'll get much better results. And you won't need to mess around cleaning up the photographs.

I can help you find a high-definition camcorder and a good camera. Check out my buying guides:
     • Buying an HD camcorder
     • Choosing the right digital camera
     • Upgrading to a digital SLR
     • Finding lenses for an SLR

169. Vista Service Pack 1, and more
Q. I've been hearing a lot about Vista's Service Pack 1 lately. It's bringing back unpleasant memories of XP Service Pack 2. That caused me problems with some programs. So I'd like to get your take on the Vista Service Pack. Should I go ahead and install it? Or should I wait a bit?

A. I know what you mean about XP Service Pack 2. I got plenty of questions when it was released!

That said, I generally recommend installing Service Packs. The exception would be if you know you will encounter a conflict. Of course, there is always the possibility of a conflict.

Microsoft issues security patches every month. It also releases Service Packs periodically. The Service Packs contain the monthly security patches. Sometimes Service Packs introduce new features. But they all improve features already present in the operating system.

Vista Service Pack 1 improves the performance and reliability of the operating system. It also adds support for emerging technologies. As for security, it includes previously released fixes, along with new security patches.

Service Pack 1 will also improve compatibility with hardware. Vista is currently compatible with about 40,000 pieces of hardware. Service Pack 1 nearly doubles this. Many people have complained about hardware compatibility problems in Vista. It also improves compatibility with some programs.

Microsoft is pushing the Service Pack out to users via Windows Update. However, it isn't automatically installed on your machine. That's true even if you have it set to install updates automatically.

Vista Service Pack 1 has a feature that will help you avoid conflicts. When you download Service Pack 1 from Windows Update, it can identify problematic drivers. Don't download the Service Pack manually from Microsoft's site. Otherwise, you'll miss the check for problematic drivers.

Drivers are pieces of software that help hardware run. They're a frequent cause of compatibility issues.

If problematic drives are discovered, installation of Service Pack 1 is postponed. You can install it when new drivers or other applicable updates have been installed. This lessens your chance of encountering problems.

You still may experience problems with hardware drivers after installing Service Pack 1. The drivers will work with the Service Pack. However, an error may occur during the installation process. You may need to reinstall some hardware drivers. So keep your discs handy!

There are several things you should do before installing Service Pack 1. First, back up your data. This is important whenever you're making a significant change to your system.

Next, create a System Restore point. If anything goes horrifically wrong, you should be able to revert your machine.

To create a System Restore point, click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>System Tools>>System Restore. Click "open System Protection." On the System Protection tab, click Create. Name the Restore Point and click Create. Click OK. Click Cancel in the System Restore Wizard.

Next, you will want to make sure your machine has the latest drivers installed. Visit your computer manufacturer's site to check for updated drivers. Install any that are necessary. You should do the same for printers and other connected gadgets.

Finally, make sure you have enough free space on your main hard drive. You need at least 4.5 gigabytes. To check, click Start>>Computer. You'll see the used and free space of your hard drive.

When you're ready to install Service Pack 1, click Start>>All Programs>>Windows Update. In the box that opens, click "View available updates." You'll see a list of updates. If there are others besides Service Pack 1, install them first.

Then, select Windows Vista Service Pack 1. Click Install. The download will take awhile. After the prompts, follow the steps to install the Service Update. It will take a considerable amount of time. Your computer will reboot during the process. Make sure you do not turn off your computer until it is complete.

When Vista restarts, you won't see a noticeable difference.

Need more help with Vista? I have all the help you need on my site!

168.Easy ways to add storage . . . and more
Q. I have a computer, and recently received my mother's old one. I take a ton of pictures. Also, I'm a woodworker, so I collect patterns, tips and helpful hints. I desperately need memory space. I would like to connect my computer with my mother's old one. My husband tells me that can't be done. Why can't he connect the two with a cord?

A. When you refer to "memory space," I assume you mean hard drive storage space. Memory is different. It refers to RAM. This is where the computer stores data that it anticipates using. RAM is volatile; it is emptied when the computer is turned off.

Now, you have several options. If you just need more storage, you can accomplish that easily. You wouldn't even need to connect the two computers.

You could add another hard drive to your current computer. I have a tip that includes detailed instructions on installing a hard drive. Just last week, I saw an ad for a terabyte hard drive. It was about $200. A terabyte is approximately 1.1 trillion bytes. That will hold a lot of pictures and patterns!

Installing a hard drive isn't too difficult. But maybe you don't feel like opening up your machine. In that case, you could buy an external hard drive. Or, you could build an external housing for an internal drive. Sound too difficult? My tip will make it easy!

How old is your mom's old computer? If it came with Windows XP, it might be worth keeping. Anything older probably isn't worthwhile. Maintaining an old machine can nickel and dime you to death. I would recycle an old computer.

If her old machine isn't too old, they can be connected. There are several ways to do that. For example, you could use a USB bridge cable. These are sometimes called USB link or network cables. They have a node at the midpoint of the cable. It contains extra circuitry for a safe connection. I've seen them online for less than $10.

If both computers have Ethernet jacks, you can use them to connect the computers. You could use a hub, or a crossover Ethernet cable. Ad-hoc connections can be difficult to set up, though.

Ad-hoc connections also leave little room for expanding your network in the future. Besides, your broadband modem probably connects to your Ethernet jack. You don't want to rearrange cables when you access the second computer.

Of course, the computers may not have Ethernet jacks. Or maybe you just don't want a bunch of cables running through your house. In that case, you could use Wi-Fi.

Again, you can create wireless ad-hoc connections. But I would buy a wireless router and one wireless card. That way, you can set up a full-blown network. Expect to pay about $100 on networking gear. Not sure what to buy? My buying guide will help you decide.

The wireless router would connect to your broadband Internet. Then, you would connect one computer to the router with an Ethernet cable. You'd put the wireless card in the second computer. I have more on connecting two computers on my site.

You also need to set up your network in Windows. That's easy. I have a tip that will walk you through it. You'll also want to set up file and printer sharing. My tip has you covered there, too.

Once your computers are connected, you can share the Internet connection. You can also transfer data over your network.

If you take the wireless route, make sure your network is locked down. Otherwise, intruders could use your network. I have a tip that will help you keep your network safe.

167. Vista virtual machine vs. dual-boot setup
Q. I have a computer that runs Vista Ultimate. However, some programs won't run on Vista; they require Windows XP. I don't want a second computer. I also don't want a dual-boot setup. I've heard that I can install XP as a virtual machine in Vista. Is this true? How does one set up a virtual machine?

A. Vista is an improvement over Windows XP. There are nice new features for you to enjoy. And, security is enhanced in Vista.

However, Vista isn't perfect. Not all software will run in it. And many users have encountered problems using old hardware.

Creating a dual-boot setup is one option. But for many people, creating a virtual machine is much better. You won't have to reboot in order to change operating systems. You can even work in both at the same time.

Before you install a virtual machine, make sure your computer can support it. You must be running Vista Business, Vista Enterprise, Vista Ultimate, XP Professional, or XP Tablet PC. You'll need at least 2 gigabytes of hard drive space.

You also need to consider RAM. You need 256 megabytes minimum for Windows XP. If you plan to run intensive programs in XP, increase that to a gigabyte.

Keep in mind that this is in addition to Vista's requirements. It needs 1GB of RAM minimum.

Next, you must have the correct software. You'll need a copy of Windows XP that you can install. It should be a retail version, not one that came preinstalled on another machine. You also need a copy of Microsoft's Virtual PC. I have a link to this free program on my site.

After you install Virtual PC, you're ready to go. Click Start>>All Programs>>Virtual PC. The New Virtual Machine Wizard should start. If it doesn't, click New to start it. Click Next.

Select "Create a virtual machine" and click Next. Name your virtual machine and select the location for your virtual machine file. Click Next.

In Vista, the default operating system for your virtual machine is XP. But you can select a different operating system, if needed. Click Next.

The wizard will set the RAM for your virtual machine to 128MB by default. But you will probably want to change this. Select Adjusting the RAM and enter the amount of RAM you want to use. It can be adjusted later, if needed. Click Next.

Next, you'll need to set the amount of hard drive space to allocate to your virtual machine. Select "A new virtual hard disk." Click Next.

I recommend setting a maximum amount of hard drive space to use. Let the virtual machine expand automatically until it hits the limit you specified. This is the default option. Click Next.

Specify the size and location for your .VHD file. This is your virtual hard drive. Click Finish.

In the Virtual PC Console window, select the virtual hard drive you created. Click Start. Your virtual machine will be loaded. Now you're ready to install Windows XP on the virtual machine.

Insert your Windows XP disc. Setup should begin automatically. If it doesn't, select CD>>Use Physical Drive. Hit Enter.

Wait for Windows XP to install on the virtual machine. Now you're ready to install some additional tools. In the window showing the virtual machine, click Action>>Install or Update Virtual Machine Additions.

The tools will let you move your mouse freely between the XP window and Vista. And you'll be able to copy files between XP and Vista by dragging and dropping. You can also share the Clipboard and folders between the two operating systems.

166. Vista CDs sometimes incompatible
Q. I sent a friend photographs on a CD. She was unable to view them. She told me she's previously encountered this problem. It happens with CDs that were created in Windows Vista. When I finished the disc, a message popped up. It said something like, "Please wait while Vista formats this disc to be read on all computers." However, my friend told me that I need to select something before I burn the disc. I don't see any options when I create a disc. Help!

A. Things like this annoy me. Computers can read CDs so long as they have a CD or DVD drive. And you're presumably using a common format like JPEG. Ergo, you shouldn't have trouble exchanging CDs between machines.

In reality, Microsoft has thrown you a curve. Vista introduced a new format for writing discs—Live File System. Those CDs aren't necessarily compatible with all computers.

CDs created by Windows XP use the Mastered format. That format requires you to finalize the disc after it is burned. So, it must be completed in one session. Rewritable discs can be written to again, but must be erased first.

By default, Vista uses the Live File System. With this format, you can write files to the CD whenever you want. You can also erase files whenever you want (provided you're using a rewritable CD). A rewritable CD can be used like a floppy disc or USB drive.

When I make a disc for Vista, I just use Live File System. But when the disc will be used on other machines, I use the Mastered format. You shouldn't run into too many problems with this format.

To select the Mastered format, insert a blank CD in your computer. Click "Burn files to disc" in the box that opens. Enter a name for the disc and click "Show formatting options." Select Mastered and click Next. Your CD will be formatted. You can then add files and finalize the disc. Now, that isn't too complicated—once you know where to look!

Before we go on, let me remind you about the links. When something is underlined in our newsletters, click it. It's a link for you to learn more.

You don't have to use Windows' burning programs. There are many other programs available. I have links to three on my site—BurnAware, CDBurnerXP and DeepBurner.

There is a solution that will eliminate CD-burning problems. Ditch discs and find a different way to share photos!

Photo-sharing sites are the easiest way. My tip will help you select a site. Make sure you know what rights you may be surrendering first.

You might like Picasa Web albums. It works seamlessly with Google's free Picasa photo-management program. Again, Picasa is free. You can download it from my site.

You could also use a program like FolderShare. You share the photos directly from your computer. It really works! FolderShare is free. I have a download link on my site.

Or, you could use a site where you upload files for others to download. Here are two free sites for you to try:
• MailBigFile
• YouSendIt

165. Worrying about a full hard drive
Q. I have an HP Media Center computer. It has three hard drives. The C: drive has 214 gigabytes free. The D: drive is 7.2 GB with only 602 megabytes free. The E: drive has 293 GB free. Should I be concerned about the limited space on the D: drive? If so, how do I free up space? When I access the D: drive, it displays a warning. It says this is the recovery partition and instructs me not to make changes.

A. This is a really good question. Many people wonder the same thing. Let me explain what is going on. I think it will put your mind at rest.

For starters, you have two physical hard drives in your computer, not three. First, there is the main drive. It has been divided into two partitions so even though it is one physical drive, you actually see two drives: the C: drive and the D: drive. Each appear as separate drives in (My) Computer.

Then there is the secondary drive. The E: drive is presumably where you store data and your backups.

The C: drive should contain your operating system and programs. The D: drive contains your computer's recovery files.

About the recovery goodies
Many computer manufacturers have done away with recovery discs for new computers. Instead, they partition the main hard drive. Recovery files for Windows and preinstalled applications go on a second, smaller partition.

The recovery partition makes it easy to restore Windows and programs. HP should include a program to help you use the recovery partition. Of course, you don't need any recovery discs.

Now, it doesn't matter that the recovery partition is almost full. You won't be adding anything to it. So, you don't need to worry about the contents outgrowing the partition.

In fact, manufacturers make the partitions as small as possible. That way, you have more room to store your data on the computer. So you could forget about the recovery partition until you need to use it.

However, there is one thing you should do sooner rather than later. Make recovery discs from the partition. Your manual should include instructions on doing this. You'll use the recovery program to make the recovery discs.

Why would you want to make discs? Well, the entire drive could fail. That means you'd need to install a new drive in your computer. To put Windows and the preinstalled applications back on the computer, you'd need the recovery discs. You can't use the recovery data on the failed drive.

It will take about 10 CDs to back up the recovery partition. Keep them in a safe place. You may want to make copies of them periodically. CDs deteriorate over time. I have written about that on my site. So, if you want to learn more, click here.

If you really want, you could then delete the data in the recovery partition. However, the partition will remain on your hard drive. You could use it to store data. But such a small partition would probably be a hassle.

Changing partitions
There is a way to change the partitions on a hard drive. Vista has built-in tools that will help you with this. Click Start>>Control Panel. Double-click Administrative Tools and then Computer Management.

Click Disk Management. At the bottom of the window, you'll see your physical drives. You'll also see the partitions on each. To delete a partition, right-click it and select Delete Volume. Then, right-click the other partition and select Extend Volume. Extend it to use the space recovered from the deleted partition. You'll get a dialog box that will help you with this.

If you're using Windows XP, you can reformat the drive and reinstall Windows. Or, you'll need to purchase a program to change the partitions. This will be a headache. My tip covers all the gory details. Click here to read it.

Personally, I would leave the recovery partition on the machine. You have plenty of room on the C: drive. The extra eight gigabytes of storage isn't going to matter that much at this point. And it's nice to know that you can restore your computer at any time. You won't need to search for your recovery discs.

Hopefully, you'll never need to restore your computer. But if you need to use your recovery partition, I have a tip on my site that will make it a snap.

Now, when those massive hard drives start getting full, you'll want to do some cleaning up.
     • A free program that is a better uninstaller than the one built into Windows
     • I have a tip that will help you remove unnecessary junk from your PC.
     • You can also compress files to save room.

164. Vista handwriting and speech recognition
Q. My hands hurt after a long day of pounding the keyboard. I'd like to enter data without using the keyboard. A friend told me that Vista includes a handwriting recognition feature. I haven't been able to find it. Does it exist? If so, how do I use it?

Yes, Vista does include a handwriting recognition tool. But that isn't your only option. Have you tried speech recognition? It is also included in Vista.

Speech recognition does have its advantages. First, you probably talk faster than you type or write. And speech recognition won't put any strain on your hands at all. If you want to try Vista's speech recognition, check out my tip.

But, many people are too self-conscious to use speech recognition. Or maybe you just want to be more discreet. Also, handwriting recognition may be more accurate than speech recognition. But that depends on your handwriting!

I assume you aren't using a tablet PC. If you were, the handwriting recognition component would be obvious. So, you'll need one thing to use Vista's handwriting recognition: a graphics tablet. (Theoretically, you can your mouse. But that would be very difficult.)

Graphics tablets include pens that let you input text, drawings and the like. To learn more about graphics tablets, read my buying guide. These things are great for photo editing!

Once you have your tablet, you're ready to get going. Just click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>Tablet PC>>Tablet PC Input Panel. Once open, the panel will float above any open window.

There are three buttons at the top left of the input panel. One lets you write. The second lets you print letters. And the third opens a keyboard panel. Click the first button. Then, begin writing on the line in the yellow box.

As you write, you'll notice that Windows places boxes under your words. This shows you how Windows is reading your writing. If you notice a mistake, click a word. A panel opens that will let you correct the word letter by letter. Also, suggested words are listed. Just click on a suggested word to replace the incorrect one.

Depending on your settings, the text may not be inserted in your document or program automatically. In that case, hit the Insert button or press Enter when you've entered your text.

Vista's handwriting recognition feature is surprisingly accurate, at least with my handwriting. But, you may encounter problems. In that case, you'll need to do a little extra work.

You can personalize the handwriting recognition feature so it better recognizes your writing. To do this, click Tools>>Personalize Handwriting Recognition. A wizard will open that will help you correct problems. You can target errors with specific characters. Or, you can provide an extensive sample of your writing.

If you want to customize the way the handwriting recognition panel works, you can. Just click Tools>>Options. You'll find a plethora of options. For example, you can customize where the panel docks. Or, you can have text automatically inserted in your document.

When you want to close the handwriting panel, simply click Tools>>Exit. If you use window controls, it will just be minimized.

If your hands regularly hurt from typing, this could be the start of repetitive stress injury. You do not want this! In addition to looking for alternative input methods, take regular breaks. I have a freebie that will remind you to do this.

163. Hard drive or flash drive camcorder?
Q. I’m in the market for a digital camcorder. Canon has new camcorders coming out. One has a 16-gigabyte flash drive. Which do you think is better—a hard drive or a flash drive?

A. Camcorders have certainly come a long way. Just the other day, I was watching a video of myself at a family birthday party. I was 5. I think the video camera jumped around more than I did.

Today’s hard drive camcorders have benefits. For starters, there’s usually more than ample storage for videos and pictures. Most models are over 30GB.

To put this in perspective, you’ll be able to record around nine hours at high quality mode. You can usually get around 25 hours by recording at a lower quality. Plus, it’s relatively easy to get video onto your computer. You simply connect the camcorder to your computer via USB or Firewire.

But hard drives are relatively delicate. One good drop could break the hard drive. If you’re like me, delicate doesn’t always describe us.

Flash memory also transfers video to your computer easily. It is much more compact than a hard drive. That means camcorders can be smaller. Plus, flash memory uses less power.

Flash memory is more durable than other types of storage. There are no moving parts to wear out. Bumps and jolts are not likely to break the memory. So, it is ideal for portable gadgets.

There is one big drawback to flash memory: its cost. You’ll pay a premium for flash memory. That’s particularly true when the memory is built into a gadget.

I picked two Canon models as examples of what memory will cost. Both are high-definition camcorders. That’s the only way to go now.

The Vixia HF10 has 16 GB of internal flash memory. It will sell for $1,100. In comparison, the HF100 only takes SD or SDHC (Secure Digital High Capacity) cards. Its other features are very similar. It will sell for $900.

Personally, I wouldn’t spend the extra $200 for the internal memory. Rather, I’d simply buy a large memory card and the less expensive model. This is a much cheaper route.

I’ve seen 16 GB memory cards for about $60. Or, you could buy several smaller cards. You’ll save a little money.

There are other benefits as well. You can use the memory cards in other gadgets. Also, the memory cards can be swapped easily.

With the HF10, you can record about two hours in high-definition. If you’re travelling, you’ll use this memory up quickly. You’ll probably end up purchasing a memory card to use anyway.

With the HF100, you can have a few memory cards on hand. When you need more storage, simply pop a new one in.

It is worth noting that not all SD/SDHC cards will work in these camcorders. You must use a Class 4 or higher memory card for high definition. Class 4 refers to the speed of the memory card. Class 4 has a minimum write speed of 4MB/s. Find out what you need to know about memory card speeds in my buying guide.

Before you purchase your camcorder, check the buying guides on my site. You’ll get the advice you need to find the perfect camcorder.
• Buy the right HD camcorder
• What to look for in a digital camcorder

Once you get a camcorder, you’ll want to edit your videos. I have many free programs that will help you work with your video.

162. Digital television and converter boxes
Q. You said that you don’t necessarily need an analog-to-digital converter box for digital television. Certain VCRs and DVD recorders could be used in place of a converter box. Can you give me a list of models and brands that I can use? It would save me buying one extra gadget.

A. I’ve been getting a lot of questions about the digital television transition lately. That’s not a bad thing. Many people are not aware of the transition!

I’m not going to go into the details of the transition here. You can find everything you need to know by reading my column. It’s free for the taking on my site.

Now, I can understand why you don’t want to buy a converter box. It costs money, even with a $40 coupon from the government. In case you need a coupon for your older television, click here. And it is another piece of gear cluttering your family room.

Now, you bring up an interesting point. You can use a VCR or DVD recorder in place of a converter box. However, you need to have the right kind of VCR or DVD recorder. There’s always a catch!

I could try to list all the models that would work in place of a converter box. But I’m not familiar with every model on the market! Besides, that would bore too many people.

So, you’ll need to do some research on your own. It’s not hard and won’t take long. The DVD recorder or VCR needs to have an ATSC tuner. Unlike NTSC tuners, ATSCs are capable of picking up digital broadcast signals.

Old VCRs will use analog NTSC tuners. So, if you’re holding onto a VCR from the mid-90s, it isn’t going to help you.

Newer VCRs and DVD recorders should have ATSC tuners. Any model that you buy today will definitely have one. From March 2007, all gadgets with TV tuners were required to be digital.

If you purchased a DVD recorder in recent years, check the manual or the manufacturer’s Web site. It should describe the type of tuner. I assume that you haven’t purchased a VCR recently. But if you have, the same advice applies.

If you use a DVD recorder or VCR, you’ll change the television channels through it. And your antenna will connect to the recorder.

For help picking the right antenna for digital broadcasts, read my tip. Then, find out how to position the antenna correctly.

I have a slew of other television tips on Komando.com. Here is a quick list of some popular ones:
     • Explore your options when getting HDTV programming
      • Buying an HDTV
      • Using a computer monitor to get HDTV

161. More DVD confusion
Q. Now that Blu-Ray has won the DVD battle, what becomes of the HD DVDs we own? Will the Blu-ray players play them? Will existing DVD players play Blu-ray, but with lower picture quality?

Q. I am putting pictures on a DVD-R for slide shows. I'll play them on TV for guests. (We have three grandkids, so we have a lot of cute pictures, we think.) With Blu-ray, will we have trouble playing these in the future? Will I have to have an old DVD player to play them? Or am I confusing technology?

Q. We just purchased two new Hi-Def TVs with HD DVD players. Can we play Blu-ray DVDs in our HD DVD players?

A. As you probably know, I'm a great optimist. To me, the glass is always half full. Sometimes, it is three-quarters full, even.

So, when the high definition DVD war ended, I was ecstatic. This will bring simplicity to the masses, I thought. Ho, ho, ho! Silly me. Now people are REALLY confused. I should have known better. We ARE talking about DVDs!

Let's recap the recent war. Both Blu-ray Disc and HD DVD are high-definition formats. Sony is the prime backer of Blu-ray; Toshiba was pushing HD DVD. With the proper players, either delivered a lovely picture.

Unfortunately, the two formats are not compatible. So, if you wanted a well-rounded movie collection, you needed a machine for each. Until recently, each ran hundreds of dollars.

In January, Warner Bros. announced it would make movies for Blu-ray only. That was the death knell for HD DVD. Toshiba subsequently decided to phase out that product. Stores are clearing out their stocks of HD DVD players.

So, why would people buy these machines? They are upconverters. You can play regular DVDs on them. You'll get a better picture than is available with a regular player. Of course, you need a high-definition television, too.

You may find HD DVD movies on sale, too. Sources on the Internet say there are nearly 400 HD DVD titles. Some of those are probably also available in Blu-ray.

So, why not just buy a Blu-ray machine? They also upconvert standard DVDs. But you'll probably pay $400 for a Blu-ray player. You might find an HD DVD player for as little as $100.

Blu-ray machines are costly

So, to recap the questions above, Blu-ray will not play HD DVD discs. HD DVD will not play Blu-ray discs. These machines will play Blu-ray and HD DVD discs, respectively. Standard DVD players will play neither.

However, both Blu-ray and HD DVD machines will play standard DVDs. And they are upconverters; standard DVD will look better than it does on a standard player. That is, assuming you have a high-definition television.

I assume the first questioner has an HD DVD machine. Just continue using it to play your HD DVDs. Some day it will wear out. But given the quality of today's electronics, that could be well down the road. Nothing else will play your HD DVD discs.

Slide show should be OK

And the second question: The Blu-ray and HD DVD machines we have looked at play DVD-R and DVD+R. So do most standard DVD machines. So your slide show should play in the future.

And, finally, the third question: Did you buy your players in the last two months? If so, your salesman stuck you. Warner Bros. announced its decision on Jan. 4. It was immediately obvious that HD DVD had lost the war.

Circuit City is accepting returns of HD DVD players. Other stores may be, too. I would take them back. Be very insistent.

You need an HDTV to display high definition DVDs. Check out my buying guide. You have choices in high-definition programming. I addressed that in a column. High definition has spread to the video world, too. High definition camcorders are now affordable. I have a camcorder buying guide. And if you plan to edit videos, don't stint on your computer. You're going to need horsepower.

160. Blu-ray player profiles
I know that Blu-ray has won the high-definition DVD format war. So, I felt that I could finally buy a player with confidence. But then I heard about player profiles. Does that mean there are different kinds of Blu-ray players? What do I need to look for when shopping for a player? Thank you, Kim! I love your show and tell all my friends about it.

Thank you, right back. I love what I do. And I’m glad you love it, too.

I want to make sure you buy the right Blu-ray player. If you don’t know some important facts, you could end up with old gear.

You heard right; the format war is over. HD DVD is dead. Blu-ray Disc is the way to go for high-definition DVDs. But yes, there are different kinds of Blu-ray players.

I know it feels like I just threw you another curve ball. But it may not be as big a deal as you think. The profiles concept isn’t complicated. But it’s important to understand if you’re shopping for a player.

The Blu-ray format is adding new functionality to DVD players. New features will bring interactivity to your movies. But they are rolling out slowly. New Blu-ray profiles add different features. As new profiles emerge, older ones will be phased out.

Here’s what you need to know.

The first Blu-ray players were profile 1.0. This profile was often called the Grace Period Profile. These players simply played Blu-ray movies. They provided HD quality video. But they didn’t include any extra features.

All players manufactured after Nov. 1, 2007, must be profile 1.1. This profile adds picture-in-picture capabilities. Blu-ray movies can show bonus content in a picture-in-picture window. And they can show it while the movie is playing.

Profile 2.0 is coming soon, probably in the fall. It will add Internet connectivity to Blu-ray players. You’ll be able to access movie-related games, blogs and other content. And you’ll be able to interact with this content on your HDTV.

Salespeople may not know a lot about the different profiles. Just know that if the player supports picture-in-picture, it’s profile 1.1. And, in the future, if it has Internet connectivity, it’s profile 2.0.

So, should you go out and buy a profile 1.1 player? Should you wait for profile 2.0 players? There are probably profile 1.0 players still on the shelves. What about those?

I recommend picking up at least a profile 1.1 player. Profile 1.0 players should still play all Blu-ray discs. But format standards and requirements can change. It could become obsolete in the future. Then you’d have to buy a new player.

If Internet connectivity sounds enticing, you might wait for profile 2.0. It’s not available just yet. But several Blu-ray releases already include Web content. It’s a feature that you can expect in future Blu-ray discs.

Another option is to buy a PlayStation 3. The PS3 plays Blu-ray movies. It can already connect to the Internet. And it’s capable of receiving firmware updates online. A PS3 can be upgraded to profile 2.0 when the time comes. Plus, PS3s are priced on par with stand-alone Blu-ray players.

Tips for going HD:
     • Want to make home movies on HD?
     • Don’t get stuck with a dud HDTV
     • Where do you get HD programming?

159. Making System Restore work
Q. What is the purpose of System Restore? I have tried to use it numerous times when something went wrong. I picked a date for System Restore, but it said it could not restore to that date. No matter what date I picked, it said the same thing. How does this work? I am using Windows XP.

A. System Restore is kind of like "isosceles triangle." It sounds vaguely like something you should understand. But, really, who has the time?

Sorry to say, I know little about isosceles triangles. (Actually, they're triangles that have two sides of equal length. I know that only because I double-checked the spelling in the dictionary.) However, I'm up to speed on System Restore. It's actually pretty cool.

System Restore is intended to correct major boo-boos. It restores Windows' system files to an earlier date when Windows was working properly.

Let me give you an example. Let's say you download and install a program from the Web. You reboot. When Windows comes up, it doesn't look right. It doesn't work right, either. This qualifies as a major boo-boo.

Pick a date; almost any date!

So, you go into System Restore. You pick a date there—say, yesterday. You tell Windows to roll back. The system files that have been altered return to their earlier state. Voilà, your computer is steady again.

The date you have picked is called a Restore Point. Windows automatically makes one every 24 hours. It also makes one when you install a program. You could have used that one in my hypothetical example.

System Restore only works on Windows system files. It does not affect your personal files, or program files.

I have used System Restore only once. It worked.

Where do you find it?

System Restore looks different, depending on your version of Windows. But it is accessed the same way in Windows XP and Windows Vista. Click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>System Tools>>System Restore.

In Windows XP, select "Restore my computer to an earlier time." Click Next. You'll see a calendar. Bold dates have a restore point. Click one. Click Next>>Next. Windows will roll back.

In Windows Vista, you can select the recommended restore point, or pick your own. If you choose the latter, you'll get a table of restore points. By default, they go back five days. You can choose to go back about two weeks, if you prefer. Click Next>>Finish to roll Windows back.

So, we haven't tackled your question, have we? Let's do that now.

Keep System Restore working! Click here for the rest of this Tip!

158. WiMAX vs. 802.11g and 802.11n
Q. I’ve heard you talk about 802.11g and 802.11n. But what about WiMAX? Instead of investing in 802.11n routers, shouldn’t we just be upgrading to WiMAX? Or is there a reason why you’re not recommending WiMAX?

A. Well, yes. There’s a very good reason I’m not recommending WiMAX: It isn’t available. There have only been a few trial runs of WiMAX service.

Also, WiMAX and Wi-Fi differ, although many people have confused the two.

Just so we get our terms clear, WiMAX stands for Worldwide Interoperability for Microwave Access. Wi-Fi stands for wireless fidelity.

As I’m sure you’re aware, Wi-Fi lets you connect to other computers and the Internet wirelessly. But to connect to the Internet, you need a modem as well. Wi-Fi has a range of about 300 feet. Of course, 802.11n promises to double the range.

In contrast, WiMAX combines Wi-Fi and the modem. WiMAX covers 30 miles. So far, two companies have teamed up to conquer the WiMAX market. Sprint will take the urban areas. Clearwire will provide WiMAX to rural areas.

For the sake of discussion, let's say you have Sprint's service. You would get a modem that’s about the size of a router. This connects to your laptop. Wherever you wanted to access WiMAX, you’d need to take the box. Umm, not very convenient.

Here's the problem: Your computer doesn't have a WiMAX card. However, that's going to change in June. That's when Intel will release its Centrino 2 platform.

Centrino integrated Wi-Fi into laptops; Centrino 2 will do the same for WiMAX. When this happens, the external modem won’t be needed. WiMAX will function much like a cellular laptop card.

That brings me to an important point. WiMAX won’t be free. Details on pricing haven’t been released. I’d expect WiMAX to cost the same as home broadband or even cellular broadband access. However, competition from cable and DSL should hold prices down.

Sprint and Clearwire hope to have a sizable coverage area when Intel Centrino 2 launches in June.

Now, there are advantages to WiMAX. It provides an alternative to cable broadband and DSL. That’s particularly welcome in rural areas.

Aside from the improved range, WiMAX is also capable of faster speeds than Wi-Fi. However, many things can affect the speed of a WiMAX connection. For example, there’s the network configuration and the number of concurrent users. WiMAX will probably provide speeds similar to cable broadband.

WiMAX also has a fairly low lag time. So it is good for handling telephone service and online games. Satellite services tend to choke on these applications.

WiMAX should be here before too long. Will I recommend it when it arrives? We’ll just have to wait and see!

In the mean time, brush up on your networking skills with these tips:
   • What’s going on with 802.11n?
   • Power gadgets over your network
   • Stop interference on a wireless network
   • Secure a wireless repeater

157. Installing gadgets in Windows Vista
I recently saw something about gadgets in Windows Vista. They sound like really useful tools. But I can’t figure out how to add them to my desktop. Can you fill me in on what I need to do?

Windows Vista adds many new features to Microsoft’s operating system. A very useful addition is Windows Sidebar. Sidebar is the feature you heard about. It’s a bar that sits on the side of the desktop. It holds gadgets that can do any number of things.

Sidebar may not be turned on by default. If you’re new to Vista, you may not even know it exists. It isn’t obvious where the Sidebar program is located. To find it, click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>Windows Sidebar.

You can have Sidebar start along with Windows. It’ll show up on your desktop every time you start your computer. Click Start>>Control Panel. Then click Classic View and select Windows Sidebar Properties. Lastly, check the box labeled “Start Sidebar when Windows starts.”

The Sidebar gadgets can do many things. They are like specialized mini programs. Several come pre-loaded with Vista. There is a photo viewer, weather utility and RSS reader, among others. It’s pretty cool to have these tools right at your fingertips.

You don’t have to settle on Sidebar’s default gadgets. Click the “+” at the top of the Sidebar. You’ll see a list of available gadgets. Double click any gadget to add it to the Sidebar.

The initial selection of gadgets is pretty limited. No problem. Hundreds are available online. If you can think of a useful gadget, you can probably find it.

To download new gadgets, click the + at the top of the Sidebar. Then click “Get more gadgets online” at the bottom of the window. This will open the gadgets site in your browser. There you can explore and rate many popular gadgets.

If you tire of a gadget, it’s easy to remove. Hold your cursor over the gadget. Small icons will appear next to it. Click the X to remove it.

Many gadgets are customizable. You may be able to change how they look or function. Hold your cursor over a gadget. Then click the small wrench symbol next to the gadget. You’ll get a new window with customization options.

Your gadgets aren’t locked to the Sidebar. You can place gadgets anywhere on the desktop. Just drag and drop the gadget anywhere you want.

Many gadgets have two states. They look and act differently when attached or detached from the Sidebar. When moved to the desktop, a photo viewer will grow in size. A weather gadget may change from current conditions to an extended forecast. Play with your gadgets to discover new abilities.

I like Windows Sidebar and use several free gadgets. I have links to some of them in my Downloads section. One gadget I really like is Magic Folder. It makes organizing your folders a breeze. Give it try.

More Vista features:
   • Could you benefit from Vista’s security features?
   • Vista makes PowerPoint presentations easier
   • Need help picking the right version of Vista?

156. eSATA external drives
Q. I bought an external hard drive for backing up my computer. The drive has USB and eSATA connections. I’m unfamiliar with eSATA. The manual claims it is faster than USB. Can you explain eSATA? Also, how do I connect the eSATA drive to my computer?

A. I’m seeing more and more external drives with eSATA connections. But I’m sure many people are still unfamiliar with eSATA.

It stands for external serial advanced technology attachment. Now that’s a mouthful! eSATA is the external version of a SATA drive. Many computers today use SATA drives instead of older IDE drives.

eSATA provides benefits over USB and FireWire connections.

Most notably, eSATA is much faster. There are two iterations of eSATA. The slower one transfers data at 1.5 gigabits per second. Newer eSATA connections can transfer data at 3Gbps. There are rumors of an eSATA that will hit 6Gbps.

USB and FireWire are not in the same league. USB 2.0 transfers data at 480 megabits per second. USB 1.1 topped out at 12Mbps. FireWire is available in two speeds: 400 and 800Mbps.

USB 3.0 has been announced. It will offer speeds up to 4.8Gbps. Firewire will also get a boost—to 3.2Gbps. To achieve these speeds, however, you’ll need to upgrade your computer.

eSATA is able to achieve high speeds for one important reason. The data is not translated as it passes into the computer.

In contrast, USB and FireWire drives use bridges. The hard drives themselves are SATA or IDE. A bridge is needed to connect them to USB or FireWire cables. The bridge must translate the data so the cable can transmit it. The translation process slows things.

eSATA will also let you access S.M.A.R.T. information on your hard drive. S.M.A.R.T. stands for Self-Monitoring Analysis and Reporting Technology. It is a set of tools built into hard drives.

The S.M.A.R.T. data can alert you to pending hard drive failure. For more on learning about the health of a hard drive, read this tip on my site.

eSATA also has drawbacks. An external peripheral cannot receive power through a SATA cable. So it requires an external power source. Some peripherals can be powered via USB and Firewire connections. Thus, no external power source is needed.

The lack of power can be a hassle. However, eSATA connections should soon be able to power external gadgets.

Not many computers have eSATA connections. So, you may have to do some minor surgery to your computer.

Adapters are available for desktops. They allow a direct hookup to an internal SATA connection. (eSATA and SATA connections are physically different.)

Or, you could install an expansion card. These plug into PCI or PCI Express slots. They usually provide several eSATA connections. And you don’t need to use one of your internal SATA connections. A card will run about $50.

eSATA cards also are available for laptops. They plug into the PC Card or ExpressCard slot.

You might also be interested in Wireless USB. It lets you connect to USB gadgets wirelessly. To learn more about Wireless USB, visit my site.

155. System Restore and Shadow Copy
Q. I just upgraded from Vista Home Premium to Vista Ultimate. The upgrade went smoothly and all my data is still on the machine. But I noticed something creepy. I was poking around in the Properties of my Documents folder. I clicked on a tab labeled Previous Versions. There were copies of documents I had deleted months ago! Is this normal? What’s going on?

A. You’ve stumbled across one of the quirks in Windows Vista. As you know, not all versions of Vista have the same features. I have a tip that covers what’s in each edition.

The Previous Versions feature is available in all editions except Vista Home Basic and Vista Home Premium. It is driven by the Shadow Copy utility, which is tied to System Restore. The latter is used to rescue your computer if something fouls it up. I have a tip that explains System Restore. It was written for Windows XP, but Vista is about the same.

Each time a restore point is created on your machine, Shadow Copy creates a previous version for each of your documents. This is intended to help you if you need to recover a version of your document.

Of course, Shadow Copy also creates previous versions of folders. That way, you can retrieve an accidentally deleted document.

You can access the previous versions by right-clicking a file and selecting Properties. Then, open the Previous Versions tab. You can select one of the previous versions. Click Open to view it. Or click Copy or Restore to retrieve the document.

To access the previous versions of a folder, open the folder in Windows Explorer. Right-click inside the folder and select Properties. Open the Previous Versions tab.

Sounds great, doesn’t it? Now for the downside. Shadow Copy exists in Vista Home Basic and Vista Home Premium. That means Windows is creating previous versions of your files. However, Microsoft took away the tools to let you access the previous versions.

This poses a security risk. Copies of your sensitive files are being made without your knowledge. And they’re hidden away on your hard drive where you can’t find or access them.

But, as you’ve discovered, this data is retrievable with a simple upgrade. Yikes!

Unfortunately, there is no way to turn off Shadow Copy. Nor is there an easy way to delete the previous versions of your documents.

There is a work-around, though. You can turn off System Restore. This will turn off Shadow Copy. Turning off System Restore could create problems, though. If you need to restore your computer to an earlier time, you’re out of luck.

However, you could turn off System Restore and then turn it back on. Turning off System Restore will clean out all your old restore points. It will also remove all the previous versions of your files and folders. You could do this periodically, if you’re concerned about what’s lurking on your machine.

To turn off System Restore, click Start>>Control Panel. Double-click System and then click “System protection.” On the System Protection tab, you should see your hard drive under Available Disks. Deselect it. When prompted, click Turn System Restore Off.

To enable System Restore again, follow the above steps. But select your hard drive instead of deselecting it.

Here's another tip that will interest you:

• Removing files from Instant Search

154. Media Center in Windows XP and Vista
Q. I’ve been thinking about upgrading my XP machine to Windows Vista. I want a version like XP Media Center Edition. But it looks like Microsoft hasn’t released one. Do you know if this is on the horizon? Or should I just hunt down a copy of XP Media Center Edition?

A. You’re right. Microsoft does not offer a Media Center Edition of Vista. That’s because it has changed things around a bit. Instead of releasing it as a separate operating system, Microsoft includes Media Center as a program.

Media Center comes installed on two versions of Vista: Home Premium and Ultimate. So you just need to decide which version is right for you. I have a comparison guide that will help.

For those unfamiliar with Media Center, it is designed to make it easier to access your media. You can play DVDs, and browse your music, videos and photos. It even lets you play and record television. For that, you’ll need a TV tuner.

To find Media Center, click Start>>All Programs>>Windows Media Center. When you start it, you’ll be greeted by a welcome screen. It will ask you to select a setup type. Or, you can opt to forgo the setup process. On my machine, I selected Custom Setup.

The program will walk you through the setup process. It is fairly straightforward.

Once you’re done, you can begin browsing the media on your computer. The program is designed to be used with a remote, but your mouse will do just fine.

Navigating can be confusing. You’ll see functions listed vertically. Options for each function are listed horizontally.

If you have a TV tuner on your computer, you’ll need to set that up, too. To do so, click Tasks in the vertical column. Scroll right to Settings. Click it and select TV and Set Up TV Signal.

Follow the instructions to set up your television tuner(s). Media Center supports a maximum of two tuners. They will automatically scan for available television stations.

Once you’ve set up your television tuners, you can begin watching television on your computer. If you want to record shows, you’ll need to set up more options.

To set up recording options, go back to Tasks. Scroll right and select Settings, TV and Recorder. You’ll want to set up storage options first. So, select Recorder Storage. You’ll be prompted to select a storage area and allocate space to your shows. When you’re done, click Save.

Next, you’ll want to check the recording defaults. You can change when Media Center overwrites old recordings. You can also change the default start and stop times for recordings. For example, you can set a margin to make sure part of a show isn’t missed. Click Save when done.

Media Center includes a program guide. Click TV + Movies and select Guide. You can use it to schedule recordings of shows. To record a show, simply select a show and click the Record button. If the show is part of a series, you can click the Record Series button.

If you later decide to cancel your subscription to a series, you can. First, select TV + Movies and Recorded TV. You’ll see a thumbnail of each recording. Scroll through to find one of the shows from the series. Click it for more information. Click Cancel Series.

Playing a show is just as simple. On the information screen for a recording, simply click Play. To delete a show, you can click Delete on the information screen. Or, set an expiration date using the Keep Until button.

To record a show that is in progress, click the Record button. It appears in the controls that appear when you move the mouse.

Media Center also lets you burn shows to DVD or CD. On a show’s information screen, click the Burn CD/DVD button. Follow the prompts to select the format and burn the disc.

Here are some more tips that will interest you:

• Preparing for the digital broadcasting transition
• Connecting a computer to a television

153. Diagnosing a slow computer
Q. I have Norton 2007 Internet Security and have kept it up to date. When I’m online, numerous processes run in the background. Norton identifies these as worms, Trojans or spyware. Here are the processes I’ve identified: LuCallBackProxy, lsass.exe, csrss.exe, smss.exe and wuauclt.exe. My computer runs very slowly. And I keep getting e-mail offers to make a body part larger. I have also run anti-spyware to no avail. I'm about ready to buy a new computer. Can you help?

A. Diagnosing problems in our computers can sometimes be complicated. Looking for various pieces of malware and spyware is a good start. But I question whether malware is your problem.

First, let's look at your suspect processes. All are valid; none should be disabled.

LuCallBackProxy
Several people have asked me about this process. It is actually part of your Norton Internet Security software. It assists LiveUpdate in retrieving and loading updates for Norton programs.

This is important for keeping security programs up to date. Don’t disable it. If you do, your computer could be open to malware.

lsass.exe
This is a Windows system process. It deals with local security and log-in policies. It’s used to authenticate users trying to sign on to your computer. This is crucial for the security of your PC.

However, Isass.exe is a virus. Wait, don’t they look the same? Yes, and that’s the point. The good process’ name begins with a lowercase L. The bad one begins with an uppercase I. When looking at processes on your PC, the font is usually san-serif. This font can make it difficult to tell the difference. The use of the upper-case I is not coincidental.

Isass.exe can disable your security programs, including your firewall. It also opens a backdoor for hackers. This program should be disabled and removed immediately. But be careful not to mix it up with lsass.exe.

csrss.exe
This is part of the Microsoft Client/Server Runtime Server Subsystem. It handles most of the graphical commands for Windows.

You need this file for your PC to run properly. Leave it alone.

smss.exe
This process is part of Windows. Its real name is Session Manager Subsystem. It controls sessions for your PC.

If you end this process, many programs will not function properly.

wuauclt.exe
This process manages automatic updates for Windows. It runs in the background and continually checks for updates. It uses your Internet connection to do the checking.

It’s important to stay on top of Windows updates. They routinely fix problems with Windows and close security holes. For the safety of your PC, keep this one around.

Adding RAM
How much random access memory do you have? If your RAM is minimal, that will slow your computer seriously.

When RAM overflows, the extra data goes into the paging file. This is a special section on the hard drive. When something there is needed by Windows, RAM clears space by sending something to the hard drive. Then it retrieves the needed data from the paging file.

This to-and-fro from the paging file slows the computer. Why? The hard drive is much slower than RAM. The process works, but it requires patience.

The cure is more RAM. For Windows XP, I would use 1 gigabyte of RAM. In Windows Vista, I recommend 2 gigabytes. I have a buying guide that covers RAM purchases.

If you have plenty of RAM, test it. Microsoft has a test program, as does Memtest86. Both are free.

Check for rootkits
It sounds like your antivirus and anti-spyware programs aren't finding anything. That means nothing is there. But you may have another problem: a rootkit.

Rootkits are some of the newest tools in a hacker’s arsenal. They can hide in the most basic of Windows operations. They also mask themselves to look like other programs. Rootkits can carry viruses, worms and other malware.

This tool usually fools both Windows and antivirus programs. Luckily, there is a solution. There are several anti-rootkit programs available. I have three free ones on my site: AVG Anti-Rootkit, Rootkitrevealer and Panda’s AntiRootkit.

Defrag hard drive
Another cause could be a badly fragmented hard drive. Fragmentation happens as files are written to the hard drive. Components are placed wherever the drive has space. This can scatter related files all over the drive. It’s much harder for the drive to call up scattered files. This can slow your computer.

To correct fragmentation, use the Windows Defragmenter. Click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>System Tools>>Disk Defragmenter. Choose your hard drive and hit Analyze. Windows will check your drive to see if defragmenting is necessary. If Windows says it is, click Defragment.

While you’re looking at the drive, do some house cleaning. Using Windows’ Disk Cleanup Utility will remove files you no longer need. Extraneous files just take up space. This is especially important if you have limited space on your drive.

Click Start>>All Programs>>Accessories>>System Tools>>Disk Cleanup. Select your disk and hit OK. Windows will show your options. Be sure to delete Temporary Internet Files and dump the Recycle Bin.

Too many start-up programs
Another possibility is that you have too many start-up programs. Some programs are set to start in the background upon log-in. So, when you try to start the application later it opens quickly. Many programs do this by default, even programs you don’t use often. Too many can cause slow performance.

I can explain the best way to minimize your start-up programs.

E-mail offers
Your e-mail about a certain body part is another issue. Spam is just part of life for most people. Just because you’re getting spam doesn’t mean your PC is infected. Spammers don’t need to use malware to send you spam. They just need your e-mail address.

Block lists and anti-spam tools can help cut down on spam. But spammers are smart. And they usually find ways around those programs. It can be simple, like tweaking a letter in their e-mail address.

Take a look at my tip on filtering spam more effectively.

If, after all this, you decide to buy a computer, check my buying guides. I have buying guides for basic laptops and desktops.

152. Like something you heard on the radio?
Q. I spend a lot of time listening to the radio. Often, I’ll want to download a song I hear from iTunes. But I don’t know the name of the song or musician. How can I find the songs I hear on the radio?

A. I get this question often. There are many ways to find the songs' names.

I'd first visit the radio station’s Web site. Stations often post their playlists. Look at the time of day when you heard the song. Maybe the title or artist’s name will be obvious.

If not, you can probably narrow it down to a few songs. Visit iTunes and listen to the samples of those songs. There’s a good chance you’ll find it.

Radio stations usually feature a "now playing" section on their sites. It will have the name when the song is played.

There are still more ways to get a song's name. If you remember a phrase from the song, enter it in Google. Surround the phrase in quotes.

Many sites feature lyrics, so the song should pop up. I’ve found many songs using this method.

Some sites will let you search for lyrics specifically. Try Yahoo!’s lyrics site or FindMeATune.

For a more innovative way to find a song, try Tunatic. This is a free music-identification program.

You’ll need to hold the radio to your computer’s microphone. It will compare the song and music in its database. How fun!

For more tips on music and audio, visit my site.

151. Wearing out flash memory
Q. My flash drives die about every two years. My friends tell me that they can be written to millions of times. But I have a theory. Maybe my computer is writing to the same section of the drive all the time. I use my drives about 10 times a day for two or three years. So that’s only about 11,000 writes. What’s going on?

A. Consumer flash drives probably can’t be written to millions of times. Sandisk says flash memory can endure tens of thousands of write cycles, if not hundreds of thousands.

Before we continue, let me explain "write cycle." A write cycle is writing a file to the memory and then deleting it.

Now, it is possible for cells in flash memory to go bad. But that won’t prevent you from using the rest of the drive/card. You just won’t be able to write to that one section.

Some flash memory includes wear-leveling algorithms. They're designed to prevent the computer from repeatedly writing to the same cells. It chooses different areas of the memory to which to write. This prevents specific areas of memory from wearing out quickly.

It is unlikely that your flash memory is wearing out so quickly. Other factors could be causing problems. Without more information, I can’t make an exact diagnosis.

First, you could be plugging and unplugging the flash drive a lot. This can cause problems with the USB connector. If the connector goes bad, you can’t access the card's data.

You can also introduce errors on the flash drive. Errors could make it appear that the drive's memory is going bad.

One example: removing the drive while the computer is writing to it. Or, maybe you’re using the flash drive with a laptop. If the laptop is low on juice, errors are possible.

In these cases, the drive can be saved. Just format it. Simply attach it to your computer. In Windows Explorer, right-click the drive. Select Format and wait while it goes through the steps.

This should fix any data errors introduced into the card. But if the problem is with the USB connector, you’re probably sunk.

All of this assumes you’re using flash drives from reputable manufacturers. Some shadier operations use inferior memory. Also, the build quality probably wouldn’t be as strong. That might cause problems with the connectors. So, spend a little extra to buy name brand flash memory.

150. Watch out for power surges
My neighbors had a power surge that burned up most of their electronics. Fortunately, I wasn’t affected by the surge. But how can I protect my computer and electronics from surges? I currently use a 3350 joules surge protector.

Unfortunately, protecting electronics from large power surges isn’t easy. That’s particularly true when you’re talking about lightning. In fact, a surge protector won’t protect your computer from lightning strikes.

I use an uninterruptible power supply, rather than a surge protector. An online (AKA continuous or true) UPS should protect your gear from lightning strikes.

With these units, the computer draws power from the battery. It is not connected directly to an electrical outlet. If lightning strikes, your battery probably will be fried. But the computer should be protected.

The UPS' main job is to keep you running if the power fails. The battery will run the computer for about 10 minutes. Because it is already running the computer, there is no hesitation.

Batteries can fail. Even so, the unit still functions as a super-surge suppressor. But if the power fails, the computer goes dark.

Expect to pay a minimum of $150 for an online UPS.

You’ll also see offline (or standby) UPS's. If the power fails, there is a momentary outage as the UPS switches to battery power. You could lose data.

Line interactive UPS's are more sophisticated then offline units. They still have to switch to the battery. But the switch is faster. You also may get better lightning protection.

Your surge suppressor sounds pretty capable. It will protect you against household power spikes. These can be caused when an appliance starts, for instance.

A buyer should look for a couple things in a surge suppressor. First, consider energy dissipation. This is the amount of power the suppressor is able to absorb.

Energy dissipation is measured in joules. Higher numbers are better. In the past I have recommended a minimum 800 joules. So, at 3350 joules, you’re sitting pretty.

Also look at the suppressed voltage rating. It refers to the voltage that a suppressor lets through. Lower numbers are better. I recommend one rated for 330v.

Power can enter through your cable and phone lines, too. So make sure your surge suppressor has these connections.

A surge suppressor is much less expensive than a good UPS. One such as yours can be had online for about $35. But it will not protect you from lightning. I have a sad story online, if you are still a disbeliever.

If lightning is common in your area, I recommend an online UPS.

149. Digital Photography - Shooting in RAW for High-Dynamic range-imaging (HDRI)
Q. I’ve been taking photographs semi-professionally for years. I see where photography is headed, so I recently made the leap to digital. I hate it! I miss the dynamic range of film-based photography. A friend told me about high-dynamic range-imaging. I’m not sure what this is, but it sounds like a solution. Can you offer me some insight?

A. First off, don’t give up on digital yet! Many die-hard photographers find the switch to digital difficult. A digital sensor behaves differently from film. You just need to learn the nuances of digital photography.

For those who aren’t familiar with dynamic range, let me explain. Dynamic range is the range from the darkest to the brightest levels in a photograph. The greater the dynamic range, the more detailed and realistic the photograph.

It is true that digital photography doesn’t offer as much dynamic range as film. But even film can’t match the human eye's tonal range.

Camera manufacturers are making advancements in dynamic range. And higher-end cameras usually have a much improved dynamic range.

Now, if you’re not shooting in RAW format, begin immediately. RAW format has many benefits. A dramatically improved dynamic range is one of them. I have a tip that explains that.

High-dynamic-range imaging (HDRI) may or may not be right for you. It depends on your tastes. Many photographers are dedicated to HDRI. Many more hate it.

High-dynamic-range photographs are achieved using special software. Newer versions of Photoshop also will do the trick.

To create an HDR image, you need three or more versions of the same photo. Each is taken at different exposures.

Take the photos in manual mode and turn manual focus on. Change shutter speed to achieve different exposures. That’s because changing the aperture will affect the photograph’s depth of field, resulting in different photographs. Obviously, the subject of the photograph should be still.

The software essentially combines the images so that you can see detail in both highlights and shadows.

Displaying HDR images is a problem. Monitors and paper prints can't show the full dynamic range. So tone mapping is used.

There are different ways to implement tone mapping. The highlights might be compressed in order to brighten the rest of the image. Contrast would be improved in the rest of the picture.

Or, the brightness and darkness of certain pixels may be changed depending on surrounding pixels. This essentially tricks the eye into believing the image has greater contrast and range. For example, a pixel in a highlight may actually be darker than a pixel in a shadow in a different part of the photograph.

If you have Photoshop CS2 or CS3, you might want to experiment with HDRI. Or, there are some free programs you can use. Try FDRTools Basic or easyHDR Basic.

It is difficult to achieve realistic results from HDRI. Many HDR images have a look that gives them away. Maybe you’ll appreciate the effect. Maybe not.

Fortunately, camera manufacturers haven’t given up on dynamic range. They’re looking for more ways to improve it.

And, remember, no HDR image can beat good lighting.

148. Printing photos at home
I want to print photos on photo material sheets. If I do that, will the prints fade? Would it be better to have a photo place do them.

There is a lot of contention around this issue. Printer manufacturers sell their own paper. Other companies also sell photo paper. Everyone thinks theirs is the best.

The printer manufacturers are well aware of this issue. In addition to paper, they also sell archival-quality inks.

The manufacturers say their printers, ink, ink cartridges and paper were made to work together. They insist that using them together will give you the best results. It appears that they are right.

A good deal of research has been done on this subject. One leading expert is Henry Wilhelm, of Wilhelm Imaging Research. He has done numerous studies on inkjet photos' permanence.

I couldn't find articles on tests later than 2005. But I believe those results are still relevant.

Basically, Wilhelm found that Canon, Epson and Hewlett-Packard turned out long-lasting pictures. Epson was best, with pictures lasting nearly 100 years.

Of course, Wilhelm doesn't have 100 years to test them. So he kept fluorescent lights burning on prints. That caused fade, eventually. The fade then was translated into years.

Epson uses pigment-based inks, instead of dyes. That may be the reason for its good showing.

You'll have to decide how much you want to spend. High-quality paper is relatively expensive. And the printer manufacturers categorize their papers from good to super-duper. Of course, prices climb with quality.

One of the also-rans in Wilhelm's paper tests was Kodak. It essentially was selling all-purpose paper for every printer. Wilhelm said it was mediocre. (Kodak strongly disagreed.)

However, Kodak began selling its own printers this year. I haven't seen permanence tests on that system. But I'd bet that it's pretty good. No one has more experience with photo paper than Kodak.

You asked about taking your photos to a "photo place." That could be problematic. Who knows what they use? You can maintain more control by doing it yourself. But that is more expensive, given the cost of paper and ink.

An exception might be camera shops. Owners have a great deal of experience with photography. They may be able to guarantee long- lasting prints. But they will probably be more expensive than a drugstore.

One other thing: Wilhelm's tests were harsh. They really apply to pictures that are displayed. Most people put pictures in an album or shoe box. If they aren't subject to light, they are less likely to fade. But they can still be affected by temperature, humidity and air quality.